wierd malfunction

slowpoke

Registered User
Sunday i ran to Norfolk to get fuel. when i got onto the interstate i applied about half throttle at 45mph in 4rth gear. the engine started making a knocking sound more like it was missing spark. this lasted only 2-3 seconds then all ran good. i looked behind me and the was a puff of smoke. i checked all the fluids and they are all good. i checked for codes and none found. i then checked over all wires, vac line, connectors, ic pipes, ext, basically everything under the hood and found nothing wrong with anything. the car has ran fine since.

is this just a fluke or does somebody have some possible insight on this?
 
i have a theory here. i noticed last time i had the ic pipes of that i had some oil puddling most likely due to the pvc system. could that cause the same symptoms considering i have been sitting at an idle alot lately due to it being so cold?

and in such case how would i go about fixing said problem?
 
An oil catch pan works too. Basicaly drill n tap the lower ic tube right after the ic and install a brass connector. Either have to cut the threads to depth or use washers so its flush inside. Then run a rubber hose to a container located anywhere below the ic tube. You can google inner cooler oil catch pans. The oil drains from the ic system into the catch pan.

I honestly wouldn't worry about the hiccup unless it happens again. It could of been as dumb as a particle got stirred up from pumpin gas and temporally restricted flow.
 
An oil separator should keep the excess oil out of your IC tubes. You can use a Campbell Hausfeldt water separator in your PCV line..or there are fancier options.

well there has been no more issues since but im also not idling up now and just freezing my ars off.

thats a great idea Dr. the only thing i have been worried about with using 1 of those is can it handle the engine heat in the summer? in such case that it can i can make up a nice mounting bracket, use braided hoses ext to make it look nice.
 
You should get a filtered catch can that goes inline with the PCV valve to filter out the oil mist etc. That mist causes detonation etc, so a simple drain off is useless since it doesn't filter out the oil while running.

I just got myself one of the stage 2 with 1/2" tubes from here http://www.saikoumichi.com/ that I will be installing in the car. Nice construction and I got the whole thing shipped to me for $118 CDN and had it within a week of placing the order.

From what I've read of people using them, they are very happy with it.

Fraser
 
thats a great idea Dr. the only thing i have been worried about with using 1 of those is can it handle the engine heat in the summer? in such case that it can i can make up a nice mounting bracket, use braided hoses ext to make it look nice.

Good point... guess I'll be finding out next year. ;)

Fraser got one of the cooler ones. :p
 
An oil catch pan works too. Basicaly drill n tap the lower ic tube right after the ic and install a brass connector. Either have to cut the threads to depth or use washers so its flush inside. Then run a rubber hose to a container located anywhere below the ic tube. You can google inner cooler oil catch pans. The oil drains from the ic system into the catch pan.

I honestly wouldn't worry about the hiccup unless it happens again. It could of been as dumb as a particle got stirred up from pumpin gas and temporally restricted flow.

I would not put the oil catch can in the intercooler tube. It needs to be lacated between the PCV valve and the connection on the back of the supercharger inlet plenum. It requires a closed system to prevent vacuum leaks. This link has pictures of what I and several others are using to stop oil from entering the supercharger and intake system.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111004&page=6

David
 
Carbon Deposits

Your plugs probably got carboned up and it blew itself clean.

Fraser


Intresting read from my school book.

Carbon deposits cause driveability problems because fuel vapors can be absorbed into them. This results in rough idleing when cold, as well as loss of power, surging, and high emissions. Carbon deposits on valves sometimes cause problems in as little as 5000 miles.

One method of removing carbon deposits is a tool called a carbon blaster which uses crushed walnut shells blasted by compressed air to remove carbon deposits. If any peices of the shells remain in the engine after cleanin they will be burned up during combustion.

Sometimes carbon that has accumulated on a valve on in the combustion chamber can drop off and be crushed against the cylinder head. If this occurs during cranking, the piston can stop on its upstroke. When this happens at low rpm with the engine running the noise resembles the sound of a bad rod bearing.
NOTE: when carbon increases the engines compression ratio detonation can result. "Carbon knock" can be very noticable when the engine is cold. Typically engine knock occurs under load but carbon knock can occur even when not under load.

Quoted from Automotive Service Third Edition by Tim Gilles
 
well the smoke problem has been taken care of, but the knocking noise started becoming more noticeable. today the tach shift light came on and stayed on. i took a look around with the engine running and found the js tension pulley would make a chatter that sounded loud enough to be a knock. so that took care of the knock noise but now my shift light is still on. would that have anything to due with the knocking noise? ie knock sensor?
 
upshift light?

I thought these things wouldn't run with the light on? I'm running into engine management problems with my car also. Sorry I don't have much advice to give but it sounds like what ever caused the temporary misfire is also the source of your high idle (or lack of high idle). Check codes- my car defaulted to base timing and had similar symptoms with the misfiring, but no smoke. Not sure yet if my problem was due to actual knock or a faulty DIS module. Good luck,
JJ
 
A shift light always on is usually a sign of a problem with the crank sensor, or DIS.... unless you accidently changed some settings in the tune.

Fraser
 
im betting on the crank sensor atm. just got under the car to inspect it and it appears as if something got snagged in it and chipped a piece off. the new sensor is on order and should be here later today. ill post later whats happens.
 
dis module was a no go, only things left is cam position sensor and coil. if the cam sensor is bad wouldnt that give a code?
 
its about 0330 now. i disconnected the batt to reset the eec. reconnected it and turned the key. the engine fired right up. full rev was good, sounds fine like theres nothing wrong but the shift light still remains on. i let it run with the q-horse hooked up and after it got to 150ect it started sounding bad, i looked at the q-horse and all the readings started to fall but the o2's, they went dead. between 150-160 ect(when it stalled) the lambe1&2 fell to 10.98, kamrf1&2 1.000, hego 1&2 0.0, load and loadx 28.17, mafv .24, spark 26.80, isc dc 0.00. this thing is starting to take me for a spin here. please help!
 
codes 11, 15, 23.
it appears as if my tune is there, so no idea about the code 15
checked the tps with q-horse and its still in adjustment.
 
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