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View Full Version : Can I fix the Supercharger Rattle?



factoryblue
10-16-2002, 07:34 PM
How hard is it to fix the annoying rattle? It's time for new fluid so I figured, while I'm at it, I may as well look into this.

Mike Puckett
10-16-2002, 11:04 PM
Generally, No, it can't fixed without a rebuild. It's usually the internal bearings or the vanes knocking that cause the rattle. Replacing the nose cone will not fix it. I wouldn't bother to replace the fluid, just keep it at proper level.

tbird88
10-17-2002, 12:11 AM
Originally posted by factoryblue
How hard is it to fix the annoying rattle? It's time for new fluid so I figured, while I'm at it, I may as well look into this.

I pm'd you earlier, check your messages.

The rattle is usually the coupler between the snout shaft & drive gear. Jerk it out & put a new one in.

'bird

ps: I also mentioned a few possible answers to your other questions.

SCroots
10-17-2002, 04:40 AM
I think ive got that "supercharger rattle" as well. what does it sound like? is it real bad?

how much is that coupling?

thanks

AsScLoWn
10-17-2002, 04:43 AM
it rattles at idle only, the best way to fix this is beg someone with a spring loaded 91 up coupler, or a new solid one, those couplers very rarely snap, usually only if you seize the rotors:D

They do get stress fractures on them though:)

SCroots
10-17-2002, 04:51 AM
argh, nevermind. mine makes a weird rattle everywhere BUT idle. well, basically when the car is under load. i was thinking it may be the exhaust manifold gaskets.

I thought maybe it was the cats, but i just got new high flows to go with my new exhaust.

tbird88
10-17-2002, 09:08 AM
Originally posted by SCroots
argh, nevermind. mine makes a weird rattle everywhere BUT idle. well, basically when the car is under load. i was thinking it may be the exhaust manifold gaskets.

Start eliminating things by opening your hood and grabbing the throttle linkage. Give it a twist and listen to the blower (and everything else under the hood) and let us know WHAT you hear and WHERE you hear it. In other words, be specific.


I thought maybe it was the cats, but i just got new high flows to go with my new exhaust.

Maybe ol' Gomer left some spare change or a bolt in the exhaust pipe while he was workin' on your car. Did you do anything to upset him while he was doin' the job? If the noise is indeed coming from underneath the car, get it up on the lift & listen/look for where the noise is comin' from.

'bird

Mike Puckett
10-17-2002, 06:49 PM
My original 90 blower rattles like a diesel engine at idle even with a new spring type coupler. My 89 parts car had a split solid coupler that was really loose and didn't rattle at all. My original 95 blower had a slight rattle from the vanes just slightly scraping on the edges, and now that it's been rebuilt and S-ported it still has a slight rattle that Magnuson says is normal due to the porting. Fortunately the blower on my 35th is quiet. I'm going to change it's leaking front seal this weekend.

KarDoktor
10-18-2002, 04:59 AM
I make a solid plastic coupler that may help the rattle.

AsScLoWn
10-18-2002, 05:29 AM
how much and whats it look like(same material?). I had to make mine several months ago since no one carried it:(.

Does it fit fairly snug also(centered on dowels etc)

I had cracks at every dowel hole on the OEM piece:D

KarDoktor
10-18-2002, 05:48 AM
I went to a local plastics company. Told them it had to be tough, resist high rpm's and any oil. They recomended a super tough plastic that can be worked as easyly as wood. lt is white and a little resiliant. Feels like a cross between teflon and a thick dense tupperware plastic. I have 2 SC's and put one in both well over a year ago and there is no slop or rattle in the blower drive. Both have overdrive pullies on the blowers. One has the ford blower oil in it. The other blower is running Mobil 0 W 30. The couplers fit tightly on the pins no slop. I have offset the pin locations in the couplers to put the maxium material between the drive and the driven pins. This solid coupler lets the blower spin up faster too. $15.00 shipped free to the lower 48.

AsScLoWn
10-18-2002, 05:58 AM
If I had known about it before I would of bought one off you:D

The plastic I used would melt around the drill and hole saws and just sieze the press:eek:, it also managed to dull a few bits

tbird88
10-18-2002, 08:58 AM
Originally posted by AsScLoWn
If I had known about it before I would of bought one off you:D
Depending on material it sounds like a steal at that price.


The plastic I used would melt around the drill and hole saws and just sieze the press:eek:, it also managed to dull a few bits
Speed = heat. Drill plastics & nylons etc as slow as you can with chattering or cracking, slow to medium speeds (700-1500rpm).

'bird

AsScLoWn
10-18-2002, 04:17 PM
yea, I have a 5-speed drill, even on the low setting the the thing would bind up, I tried spraying it with penetrating oil while cutting also. I've cut plastic before, but this stuff was a pain. The hole saw was the worst, the edges of the saw would heat the plastic and bind it up. I think my press was at the higher end of that RPM also:( . Well it took me over two hours:D

Sanding by hand would barely cut through the surface, I think the material was Delron???, it had a burnt wood smell when set on fire:D

That was some nasty plastic:(