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Mercutio
01-04-2011, 07:18 PM
Last year's shootout was finally enough to convince me that I need to buy some drag tires for my SC. I really know little about them and could use some help in choosing the right ones for my car. For those of you who don't know my car, it's a 94 5-speed making about 350 hp and 420 lb-ft to the wheels with an M90 on a 4.3 stroker; it weighs about 3450 pounds. After Ricardo loaned me a set of MT bias plies (I think) last year at the Shootout, DD made a pass of 12.46@110.4.

I've heard that mixing bias plies in back and radials in front is bad, but since I have 4-piston Cobra R brakes in front, using skinny front wheels and tires is just not an option unless I use some pretty massive wheel spacers. I have 11.6 inch Cobra rotors in back, so I'll probably need 16-inch wheels to clear them, though some 15s may fit. I do have a spare set of 17s, which means I wouldnt' have to buy new wheels, but I'm not sure about 17-inch drag tires availability or usefulness.

So I'll have radials up front for sure, but I've heard some say that drag radials on a 5-speed SC is a waste of time. I typically drag race once a year, so I have no clue and no practical experience in the matter.

With all that said, then, what would you do for tires if my car were yours?

racecougar
01-04-2011, 07:33 PM
What rear axle gear ratio are you running?

ricardoa1
01-04-2011, 07:52 PM
Will I lent you these.


ET Street
Worlds Fastest D.O.T. Class Race Tire.


World's Fastest D.O.T. class race tire. Same great features as our race winning ET Drag with a D.O.T. stamp that meets the rulebook specifications for street tire classes. Tube type for extra sidewall strength, better air retention, and more consistent ET’s.

■D.O.T. Approved
■Compounded For Maximum Traction
■Requires Little or No Burnout
■Engineered For Consistent Performance
Acceptable practice for rim width is tread width plus or minus 1''.

IMPORTANT: ALL DRAG DRIVE TIRES MUST BE MATCHED TO BE WITHIN 1/2'' ROLL OUT.

CAUTION: It is not recommended that radial and non-radial tires be mixed on the same vehicle..


MICKEY THOMPSON COMPOUND SELECTION CHART

Medium--------------------------------------------------------Soft
M5

M5 - Good compound for general use.


Seems Dave had good luck with them even though he thought mine were on the narrow side due to the wheels.

The bigger diameter the rim the less sidewall flex and for a 5speed thats important so you dont break parts more sidewall = good, but less stable at higher speeds. Ira runs a 28" tall tire on 3.08s, I ran a 26" on 3.27s at the shootout. Since you are running bigger gears you should consider a 28" tires.

DLF
01-04-2011, 08:54 PM
FWIW, I run 275/40-17 MT ET Street Drag Radial's on 17x9" rims and get consistent 1.7xx 60' times.

Some pics HERE (http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showpost.php?p=870439&postcount=22).

Mercutio
01-04-2011, 09:13 PM
What rear axle gear ratio are you running?

3.27. I should mention that the tires Ricardo is talking about got DD something like a 1.68 60-foot time (I don't have the slip in front of me, but I'm pretty sure that's right).

XR7 Dave
01-04-2011, 09:58 PM
Will,

It's going to depend somewhat on your driving style. I like to bring the rpms right up (4000rpm) and dump the clutch off the line. Only an ET street will do this repeatedly without breaking stuff. Your motor has a ton of torque and I feel that with drag radials you will break things. The 12.4 @ 110mph was a weak run for the car, I think it is capable of a lot more. It is VERY strong off the line.

For tires I would personally go with the same tire Ira has, 28 x 11.50 x 16's on a stock SC wheel. You won't likely get a 15" wheel on there without rubbing unless you spend some big $ on them. Not worth it IMO.

You are going to have a little bit of top end sway, or even mid track "wander" with the ET Streets, but that just adds to the fun!

That's my recommendation.

neverfastenough
01-04-2011, 10:00 PM
You are going to have a little bit of top end sway, or even mid track "wander" with the ET Streets, but that just adds to the fun!



Hellls Yeah:D

BLOWN38
01-04-2011, 10:06 PM
I'd get these. They are pretty expensive but you won't have to get new wheels. You should prolly stay with 28" tall tire with that gear in the car. But then again, I don't know where your rpms are thru the traps. Maybe Dave can recall what gear and rpm he was at, or if you have a log.
Hoosier 28x10x17 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOO-18157/)

BLOWN38
01-04-2011, 10:08 PM
Will,

You are going to have a little bit of top end sway, or even mid track "wander" with the ET Streets, but that just adds to the fun!

That's my recommendation.

And its not that bad. I'm sure you have the hang of a drift here and there on the auto x circuit.;) Small inputs to the wheel.

BLOWN38
01-04-2011, 10:12 PM
I have a set of the said 28x11.50x16 ET streets I'll sell ya cheaper than new. That only have 3 passes on them. Could prolly hook you up with some SC wheels too. I can put tubes in em and screw them down as I would recommend for dumping the clutch at 4k.

Mercutio
01-04-2011, 11:01 PM
Sending a PM about the tires. Don't need the wheels, since I have the Mustang bolt pattern. I'll have to look for some cheap Mustang takeoffs.

racecougar
01-04-2011, 11:34 PM
3.27. I should mention that the tires Ricardo is talking about got DD something like a 1.68 60-foot time (I don't have the slip in front of me, but I'm pretty sure that's right).

I should have also asked what rpm your engine can handle safely. With 3.27's, a 28" tire, and a 110 MPH trap speed, you'll be around 4300-4500 rpm in fourth, or 6200-6400 rpm in third going through the traps. With a 26" tire, the numbers change to 4600-4800 rpm in fourth, or 6600-6800 rpm in third.

I'd probably go with a set of 28x11.50-16 ET Streets on SC wheels (which is what I run on mine as well). Assuming you can rev out to a little over 6K, they would work well with your current setup. Also, the top end sway really isn't bad at 15 psi and above. It starts to become more significant as you near 10-12 psi.

Mercutio
01-05-2011, 08:11 PM
The car can handle 6000 rpm but the power falls off past 5500, so I don't think there's much of a point to revving the hell out of the engine.

ricardoa1
01-05-2011, 08:24 PM
The car can handle 6000 rpm but the power falls off past 5500, so I don't think there's much of a point to revving the hell out of the engine.


I agree 28" tires for sure if you are to keep the 3.27s for other events.

VicRattlehead
01-05-2011, 08:40 PM
how come you guys always go after et streets? or hoosier qtp?

i think my next set of tires is going to be a set of the stiffwall 26x10 M/T Et Drag's

BLOWN38
01-05-2011, 08:52 PM
how come you guys always go after et streets? or hoosier qtp?

i think my next set of tires is going to be a set of the stiffwall 26x10 M/T Et Drag's

Cause they are street cars silly.:rolleyes:

I didn't I told him to get hoosier drags. But he'll be just fine on ET streets.

David Neibert
01-05-2011, 10:37 PM
how come you guys always go after et streets? or hoosier qtp?

i think my next set of tires is going to be a set of the stiffwall 26x10 M/T Et Drag's

I like the DOT slicks because you can use them for street tire or slick tire races. I think NMRA True Street also requires a DOT tire. BTW, I love the 28" x 11.5 x 16" Hoosier QTPs I recently bought, and they are just as sticky as MT ET Drags.

David

XR7 Dave
01-06-2011, 12:48 AM
how come you guys always go after et streets? or hoosier qtp?

i think my next set of tires is going to be a set of the stiffwall 26x10 M/T Et Drag's

Because you have to look at the overall application, not just the tire itself. For one thing, he has big brakes on the back which means he's looking at a 16" or 17" wheel, last time I checked I don't think MT even offers a 16" slick. Then there is the whole issue of wheel width. Unless he buys drag wheels (which he doesn't want to do) he's stuck with a 7" SC wheel. The tire I recommended is only 8.7" wide in the tread so it won't completely overpower the wheel like a 10" wide drag slick will. And then don't forget he has a 5spd to contend with. ;)

Mercutio
01-06-2011, 08:01 AM
David, remember I've got the 5x4.5 conversion and the stock SC wheels won't fit unless I get them redrilled. Are they strong enough for that to work? Even then I'm not sure about whether they'll work with the Mustang hub bore.

XR7 Dave
01-06-2011, 09:43 AM
I remember that now. In that case you'll be looking at wheels like what Ricardo has or maybe some stock Mustang wheels. They will sit out further than SC wheels meaning that you may have some issues with the taller tires rubbing. I know Chris' wheels are Mustang V6 wheels that he had widened to the inside. Maybe you can make him a deal on his wheels and tires.

ricardoa1
01-06-2011, 11:44 AM
I got two rim, mustang. I got some early SN95 16"
And I also have two rims of the 2001 V6 wheels.


http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ecCL44X19KGCdM:http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/attachments/wheels-tires-parts/23696d1248402354-sale-4-16-inch-mustang-wheels-mustang-039.jpg&t=1
And
http://socalwheels.com/content/products/2877/images/IMG_3860.JPG

I can sell you one set of your choice cheap if you want. Like $50 plus shipping for a pair.

I want to keep one set though. The First set is pretty scratched up though, but they are straight. I was going to paint them with wheel paint, when I went to 16" drags. The 15" I have still have some life on them so Ill probably be using them for a little longer.

BLOWN38
01-06-2011, 11:55 AM
The wheels we use are the 2nd pic Rico has posted. They are kinda better than SC wheels cause they are 7.5 wide. We had ours widened 1.5" to a total of 9. Which cost about 200 a wheel, but they fit nice on a bird, not sure on the ebrake cable clearance tho as mine is not functional.;)

Rico is the 1st wheel 8" wide?

If you put tubes in any factory wheel you will have to hog out the valve stem hole. Not sure if a different manufacturer has smaller stems in their tubes but MT are fat and need the hogging.

1MTNCAT
01-08-2011, 03:16 PM
how come you guys always go after et streets? or hoosier qtp?

i think my next set of tires is going to be a set of the stiffwall 26x10 M/T Et Drag's

Cause they work well and we use real tires 28" tall! No wonder you complain about never getting traction. Put a damn tire on your car. If you're making any kind of power or torque you need them. Especially a power adder car with a proper stall. I've run 28's on my stocker since 1999.

28's will be fine on Wills set up and a 7.0-7.5 inch rim width should be all he needs for what he's doing and planning to use for Tires. I agree with Chris and Dave, with the stick and the power, tube the tires and screw them to keep them from rotating on the rims.

XR7 Dave
01-08-2011, 03:19 PM
Only thing I'd say is that on an ET Street there is no need for the added expense of tubes and screws. You're not going to "spin" the rims inside the tires, but they may creep a little over time.

VicRattlehead
01-08-2011, 03:25 PM
Cause they work well and we use real tires 28" tall! No wonder you complain about never getting traction. Put a damn tire on your car. If you're making any kind of power or torque you need them. Especially a power adder car with a proper stall. I've run 28's on my stocker since 1999.

28's will be fine on Wills set up and a 7.0-7.5 inch rim width should be all he needs for what he's doing and planning to use for Tires. I agree with Chris and Dave, with the stick and the power, tube the tires and screw them to keep them from rotating on the rims.

first off when the fuk have i EVER complained about getting traction?? huhh? never
second, there are plenty of cars faster then anything on this site using a 26" tire
third stall who needs stall NOT I
fourth power adder no more.
fifth an 11.5" wide tire on a 7.x rim come on
sixth no tubes but i might screw mine.

1MTNCAT
01-08-2011, 03:37 PM
Only thing I'd say is that on an ET Street there is no need for the added expense of tubes and screws. You're not going to "spin" the rims inside the tires, but they may creep a little over time.

True dat, but the ability to air the tires down more and make it more stable on top is a consideration.

1MTNCAT
01-08-2011, 03:40 PM
first off when the fuk have i EVER complained about getting traction?? huhh? never
second, there are plenty of cars faster then anything on this site using a 26" tire
third stall who needs stall NOT I
fourth power adder no more.
fifth an 11.5" wide tire on a 7.x rim come on
sixth no tubes but i might screw mine.

Keith,

1) yeah you have

2) Not a damn MN12 which is what we're talking about here.

3) yeah, like mine, not on jackstands they don't

4) No doubt

5) Measured tread width

6) Please do.

Chill dude. LOL! ;)

XR7 Dave
01-08-2011, 03:49 PM
fifth an 11.5" wide tire on a 7.x rim come on


8.7" tread width on the 11.50 ET Street. Slicks are sold based on tread width only, so an 11.5" slick is actually almost 14" wide through the section width. All street tires are sold based on section width (remember DOT).

Comments about stall speed and power adders are irrelevant to this discussion. The car in question is a 5spd with IRS meaning it has special needs when it comes to tires.

1MTNCAT
01-08-2011, 04:04 PM
The car in question is a Supercoupe, Supercharged V6, not an NA V6 and it is a 5 speed. Being a manual, it can be launched at whatever RPM, I wholly agree. In that regard it certainly has special traction/tire needs.

The same needs somewhat apply to high stall, High horsepower cars whatever the type. There may not be the shock to the wheels of the 5 speed, but there is still a lot to be held for traction purposes.

Thats all I was referring to Dave.

XR7 Dave
01-08-2011, 10:32 PM
The same needs somewhat apply to high stall, High horsepower cars whatever the type. There may not be the shock to the wheels of the 5 speed, but there is still a lot to be held for traction purposes.

Thats all I was referring to Dave.

If you look at MT new radial ply slicks, they recommend them only for auto cars. This is a hint. There is a HUGE difference in how a 5spd SC launches and it's traction needs compared to the auto SC. If you haven't driven a high HP 5spd SC, you just can't understand the difference. I rode in Kevin's auto back when he had a trans brake and 3500rpm stall converter and it was very soft off the line compared to what happens when you drop the clutch on a 5spd. I'm not the only 5spd guy to have snapped both axles on the starting line using drag radials. In contrast it is extremely rare for an auto guy to break an axle. I twisted off the yoke on my driveshaft the first time I launched from 4000rpm on slicks. I'm not the only one to do this with a 5spd car. These things just don't happen to auto guys and the reason is all about shock loading. 5spd guys don't need traction any more than the auto guys, but what we do need is shock cushion which is exactly what the ET Streets are good for.

neverfastenough
01-08-2011, 11:03 PM
If you look at MT new radial ply slicks, they recommend them only for auto cars. This is a hint. There is a HUGE difference in how a 5spd SC launches and it's traction needs compared to the auto SC. If you haven't driven a high HP 5spd SC, you just can't understand the difference. I rode in Kevin's auto back when he had a trans brake and 3500rpm stall converter and it was very soft off the line compared to what happens when you drop the clutch on a 5spd. I'm not the only 5spd guy to have snapped both axles on the starting line using drag radials. In contrast it is extremely rare for an auto guy to break an axle. I twisted off the yoke on my driveshaft the first time I launched from 4000rpm on slicks. I'm not the only one to do this with a 5spd car. These things just don't happen to auto guys and the reason is all about shock loading. 5spd guys don't need traction any more than the auto guys, but what we do need is shock cushion which is exactly what the ET Streets are good for.

+1 I went from a 13.50 car AOD, and swapped in m5r2, and went 13.50. Auto car had a quicker 60ft, but in comparison to leaving the line with a stick, it felt like a buick century riding on air. Now, leaving on a non radial tire against the 2 step, feels like all hell it going to break loose and my dash end up in my lap, if it doesnt send cv shafts and yolks to the moon, but thats because I launch the car like an idiot.

1MTNCAT
01-09-2011, 01:31 AM
If you look at MT new radial ply slicks, they recommend them only for auto cars. This is a hint. There is a HUGE difference in how a 5spd SC launches and it's traction needs compared to the auto SC. If you haven't driven a high HP 5spd SC, you just can't understand the difference. I rode in Kevin's auto back when he had a trans brake and 3500rpm stall converter and it was very soft off the line compared to what happens when you drop the clutch on a 5spd. I'm not the only 5spd guy to have snapped both axles on the starting line using drag radials. In contrast it is extremely rare for an auto guy to break an axle. I twisted off the yoke on my driveshaft the first time I launched from 4000rpm on slicks. I'm not the only one to do this with a 5spd car. These things just don't happen to auto guys and the reason is all about shock loading. 5spd guys don't need traction any more than the auto guys, but what we do need is shock cushion which is exactly what the ET Streets are good for.

Dave, I understand exactly what you are saying with a stick vs an auto. I have driven Ira's car as well. I'd consider that a high horsepower SC.

No doubt a stick car puts more shock on the drivetrain. I'm not denying that. An auto is somewhat preloaded. But let me assure you that the 4200 stall, 350 HP/500+ ft lbs of torque in my auto has broken lots of stuff, like my halfshafts twice, my limited slip, and my 8.8 Auburn unit besides lunching the center shaft on a 4R70W Trans, all on 275-60-15 BFG Drag radials (28"), which I do not run anymore. The slicks or Bias ply drag tire sidewalls absorb much more of the shock. I believe if you check with Mike Siska he will also inform you of multiple breakage in the halfshafts in his car on numerous occasions with Drag radials in the past, even with the Raxles in his car, which supposedly were better. Slicks of course worked better on his. He has since went to a stronger set up out back. So its not exactly for Stick cars. The combination of Lots of torque, lots of weight, and drivetrain shock is what breaks parts. Softer sidewalls help absorb a lot of that. So do taller sidewalls with larger diameter tires.

I'm not sure how it affects it or why other than weight transfer particularly but both of our cars leave hard, Mikes certainly harder than mine, but both generally yank the front wheels leaving so we have enough torque to make that happen.

VicRattlehead
01-09-2011, 03:02 AM
Comments about stall speed and power adders are irrelevant to this discussion. The car in question is a 5spd with IRS meaning it has special needs when it comes to tires.

If it's a blown sc it's still a poweradder car.
So what does a stick IRS mn12 need for tires??

XR7 Dave
01-09-2011, 11:20 AM
If it's a blown sc it's still a poweradder car.
So what does a stick IRS mn12 need for tires??

As Steve came around to in the post above, the amount of elasticity in the sidewalls is key. Here is where it goes a bit to opinion rather than hard fact, but it is my opinion that the multiple suspension attaching points, as well as the fact that the diff is mounted semi solid to the car, results in excessive shock loading. On a solid axle car the diff rotates with all the force of launch being transmitted to the springs which have plenty of travel to absorb whatever load is generated. with the IRS that twisting load is not transmitted to the springs, but instead to every bushing in the rear end. Any time you bottom out a bushing you have a metal to metal shock taking place. Any one of these can transmit back to the driveline and cause an "impact" which breaks things. Generally speaking an auto will not overpower the bushings all at once because even though many auto applications are generating more torque on launch than the 5spds, they don't seem to "hit" the bushings nearly as hard due to the fluid coupling. This theory is evidenced from the fact that all 5spds wheel hop, not just the high HP ones, whereas almost no auto's do.

Steve, I didn't know you had driven Ira's car so I take back a certain amount of what I said, however you have not had the distinct displeasure of driving a high HP 5spd car with a good set of drag radials. You'd be surprised at how violent it is. Ira has wisely followed my advice with tire selection meaning that his car has never been launched on drag radials.

I broke both of my axles on a 2500rpm launch on drag radials with only about 350ftlbs of torque. I had been launching at 2000-2200rpm and I used to cringe every time I did it, even though it did not wheel hop. When I put the ET Streets on it after that I was unable to repeat my DR 60 ft times (1.8's) and was getting very frustrated to the point of wanting to get rid of them. I decided to do a "John Force" impersonation and dumped the clutch at 4500rpm. The launch was smooth and I was rewarded with a 1.69 60 ft. :eek: That was when I began to understand the tire's ability to store energy and act literally like a rubber band on launch.

Later on when I graduated to a real slick, I found that the MT ET Drags operate in much the same way only with more grip. The only problem with the ET Drags is that guys with 12" rear brakes can't fit most 15" wheels without them sticking out badly. Before I retired my car I was running Hoosier slicks which seemed to grip at least as well as the ET Drags, but with less sidewall support. I found that the driveline shock was significantly increased with these tires and I started to get nervous again because I could feel the increased shock loading. It was with these tires that I twisted off the front driveshaft yoke on a 4500rpm launch (about 450ftlbs this time).

So there it is for anyone who wants to know. It's the design of a bias ply tire with the cris/cross (bias) pattern of the belts through the main carcass of the tire that resist (but not too firmly) rotational distortion in a manner that resembles a rubber band, gradually absorbing and then releasing the energy of the initial "hit" in such a manner so as to prevent the bushings in the rear suspension from bottoming out fully and thereby avoiding the metal to metal "bang" which breaks parts. If the tire does not have enough sidewall strength to absorb this, or if the sidewalls are too rigid (street radial tires) then something else has to give - if you push them hard enough, they will either spin or something will break. Since the 5spd car has nothing in the driveline to absorb shock, it makes perfect sense to run a tire that can handle (and absorb) the shock from launching at high rpms.

1MTNCAT
01-09-2011, 01:35 PM
Dave,

It appears you and I are on the same page.

I also was one who advocated to IRA NOT to use Drag radials on his car. Luckily he has followed those lines. He's still in the mode that he needs to actually launch the car harder, even if he's afraid of breaking. As you pointed out, RPM improves the launch (60 ft) considerably at that point.

The IRS suspensions do actually suck. Well, for what they were intended they don't but drag racing purposes they do. I know I've replaced several sets of the Differential bushings (Factory and Aftermarket) over the years as well as sway bar bushings, etc. It just eats them. That always helps when fresh ones go in. So that in itself proves a point. But the upper/lower control arm bushings, body bushing and all attaching bushings get hammered racing these cars, pure and simple.

And yes, wheel hop was very much evident and a problem on mine as well, even with a stiffer rear set up on Drag radials. I ran Fox mustangs for many years before 1996 and the solid axle setup were much more forgiving than these MN12 IRS. Changing the control arms on them, better bushings, and tying the front and rear of the car together with subframe connectors made a big improvement. Drag radials ran very well on those cars. Also much lighter and shorter wheelbase.

I'll also mention that I have the front and rear of my car tied together (Subframe connectors- Hand built) since 1999. That certainly has helped stabilize the car some on launch but also puts stress on the rear more since the nose lifts more evenly thus transferring more to the rear. It does somewhat stabilize the movement. The wheel hop if you look at launches very closely usually result in the top of the rear tires pulling inward, and the tire walking backward and forward in the wheel well. All due to suspension trying to contol movement as the car is going forward. Again suspension related.

Certainly its a combination of all the things we've discussed in how the car, suspension, tires, etc work.

No doubt about it.

Ira R.
01-09-2011, 03:33 PM
Since I seem to be the example of the week I will chime in here to briefly confirm what is being said. I have never used anything but MT E/T Streets at the track and the car has never had a problem with wheel hop. In fact the harder the launch the better the car sets.

On the other hand when driving the car around town on standard radial street tires it is impossible to prevent. It doesn't matter the rpm, gear, speed or even how hard you kick it, the car hops at the first hint of acceleration unless you gently roll into it.

Just saying.....

Ira


http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/irar_6971081/Shoot%20Out%202009/DSC_0105.jpg

nickleman60
01-09-2011, 07:00 PM
I know I have an auto and this is about 5-speeds but to date I've pulled my best 60' time, a 1.53 & time in sig, with a set of older M/T bias ply slicks 27/10.50/15's on a 15x7 stock Mustang rim like Chris had widened.

ricardoa1
01-09-2011, 08:34 PM
Lifting the front end is always cool. Im not that good too get a 1.6 just yet.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44980&d=1286312898

ScrapSC
01-09-2011, 10:27 PM
I used to have a 5speed before swapping it over to the auto in it now. The reason I switched was due to the violent launch, at around 4500, and breaking axles and crushing/exploding bushings. I have always used Hoosier QTP's in both applications. The auto launches much smoother since swapping out to and auto and to date I havent broken any drivetrain parts. To date my best 60 is a 1.64 on the Hoosiers and I am due for a new set. I want to step up in height on mine and run my 4:10 gear again since the 28" is the height of my street tires. I need to go larger in the front also and get away from the 15" skinny.

Ira R.
01-09-2011, 11:55 PM
I used to have a 5speed before swapping it over to the auto in it now. The reason I switched was due to the violent launch, at around 4500, and breaking axles and crushing/exploding bushings. I have always used Hoosier QTP's in both applications. The auto launches much smoother since swapping out to and auto and to date I havent broken any drivetrain parts. To date my best 60 is a 1.64 on the Hoosiers and I am due for a new set. I want to step up in height on mine and run my 4:10 gear again since the 28" is the height of my street tires. I need to go larger in the front also and get away from the 15" skinny.

Is the 15" front tire a negative? I never heard that before.

Ira

jludorf
01-10-2011, 01:19 AM
I would think it limits brake size, not sure what other problem it would cause.

John



Is the 15" front tire a negative? I never heard that before.

Ira

nickleman60
01-10-2011, 07:00 AM
I would think it limits brake size, not sure what other problem it would cause.

John

That's the only drawback of a 15" rim. You can get the front drag tires in many different diameters, my Hoosiers are 27" tall.

ScrapSC
01-10-2011, 09:07 PM
Is the 15" front tire a negative? I never heard that before.

Ira

Will be a brake issue. I could go with a taller tire but I am going to change the brakes out.

nickleman60
01-10-2011, 10:55 PM
I would think it limits brake size, not sure what other problem it would cause.

John

I just noticed this at the bottom of your post "My car eats MPXs"

Do you want to meet me and my MPx for lunch?:eek:...........Treat's on me........ ;)

BLOWN38
01-10-2011, 11:28 PM
I just noticed this at the bottom of your post "My car eats MPXs"

Do you want to meet me and my MPx for lunch?:eek:...........Treat's on me........ ;)

He means he breaks them alot.:(

nickleman60
01-10-2011, 11:30 PM
He means he breaks them alot.:(

Oh, my bad............:o

1MTNCAT
01-17-2011, 10:44 PM
Looks like I'm helping create another monstor LOL!!

:D

BLOWN38
01-17-2011, 11:23 PM
2 or 3 years ago right before the shootout he ate 2. I believe.

old_coot
02-04-2011, 11:34 AM
Is the 15" front tire a negative? I never heard that before.

Ira

Not really a big negative but in addition to limiting the size of brakes a taller tire also allows for more rollout before you break the beam===fewer red apples on the tree.........Dan

Mercutio
07-06-2011, 08:03 PM
I'm reviving this thread because I took my Camaro to the local 1/8 mile last night and that got me thinking about the Shootout. I still haven't bought any tires for the event. For budget reasons, if I get new tires at all, they'll have to be 17s to fit on the 17x9 wheels I already have. I also don't think I want to spend more than $300-$350 tops, which may mean used tires are my only realistic option. And the consensus is that radials are a no-no for my application. Anyone have a recommendation?

(And the SC is about .1 faster through the 1/8th than the Camaro, btw).

BLOWN38
07-06-2011, 11:01 PM
I think I have something for you again in a mustang pattern.:) Have some curb rash on one wheel. They are 16" cobra r replicas. Tires tubes and screwed.

Mercutio
07-08-2011, 06:41 PM
I think I have something for you again in a mustang pattern.:) Have some curb rash on one wheel. They are 16" cobra r replicas. Tires tubes and screwed.

PM me with details and a price, if you don't mind. If you'll be at the shootout, I can pick them up then, so no need to factor shipping prices into it.

BLOWN38
07-08-2011, 09:39 PM
Eh... talked to my Dad and he wants to hang on to them for street car classes. Sorry.

BLOWN38
07-08-2011, 09:55 PM
I do have some mustang 17" wheels with one decent ET street I'd let go for 100. You would have to buy one more tire. Summit Tire link (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-3743/)
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u216/blown38/zmaxpic.jpg