AOD rebirth
- Thread starter bowez
- Start date
Mike8675309
Registered User
yeah, it's a little tough to do much under an SC without it up on some jack stands. Good luck on your project.
David Neibert
SCCoA Admin
What are you expecting the stall rpms to be ? Did you delete the direct drive in 3rd & OD (aka non locking) ?
David
No the TT deletes the direct drive however if I didn't tell you it was removed you would never know. When I am done with these 12 inch units they are incredibly efficient. I have actually seen mpg increase with them. The big difference is that you free up the forced rotation of the direct drum and the 2-3 shift and most importantly the 4-3 and 3-2 shifts are much smoother. You get torque multiplication in all gears.
The part number system actually makes sense. The f52 is dacco part number for a meduim stall aod converter, The TT stands for test torque, that actually started with c5's when they omitted the junk centrifugal clutch assembly and called it a test torque. The other suffixs in this part number are HS=high stall meaning it is the highest stall stock pump and HD= Heavy duty meaning it has furnace brazed fins, a welded steel turbine hub instead of hollow rivets and a aluminum stator cap with torrington bearing. Those things are fairly exclusive to me, Lentech does most of it and sells the unit for $745 ( I wonder how he sleeps at night).
Dan drove a car I put one of these in a while back and thought it had the direct drive, the furnace brazed turbine seals the fluid in for efficiency and gives you all the benefits of direct drive and all the benefits of no direct drive as well. I have used those units in stock stall as stock replacement for over a decade without a single complaint once. The only complaints I ever get are the people who expect it to be some serious race unit and are dissapointed with a mild increase in stall over stock. I try to avoid selling them most of the time because the stock front cover will balloon, there is nothing that can be done about it. A billet 9.5 inch unit is the only solution.
You will not get 3000 rpm of stall unless you make more power than a stock shaft system can possibly handle, 2400 is about max. I rate them for a max of 2800 on heavy trucks because the weight does play a huge role.
Alan
The part number system actually makes sense. The f52 is dacco part number for a meduim stall aod converter, The TT stands for test torque, that actually started with c5's when they omitted the junk centrifugal clutch assembly and called it a test torque. The other suffixs in this part number are HS=high stall meaning it is the highest stall stock pump and HD= Heavy duty meaning it has furnace brazed fins, a welded steel turbine hub instead of hollow rivets and a aluminum stator cap with torrington bearing. Those things are fairly exclusive to me, Lentech does most of it and sells the unit for $745 ( I wonder how he sleeps at night).
Dan drove a car I put one of these in a while back and thought it had the direct drive, the furnace brazed turbine seals the fluid in for efficiency and gives you all the benefits of direct drive and all the benefits of no direct drive as well. I have used those units in stock stall as stock replacement for over a decade without a single complaint once. The only complaints I ever get are the people who expect it to be some serious race unit and are dissapointed with a mild increase in stall over stock. I try to avoid selling them most of the time because the stock front cover will balloon, there is nothing that can be done about it. A billet 9.5 inch unit is the only solution.
You will not get 3000 rpm of stall unless you make more power than a stock shaft system can possibly handle, 2400 is about max. I rate them for a max of 2800 on heavy trucks because the weight does play a huge role.
Alan
David Neibert
SCCoA Admin
chadder1313
Registered User
Im thinkin about that same trans. What did it cost?
Got it out, loving this warm up today 40°.
Examined the case and notice no SC casting marks and no Tbird digits in the PN. I was under the impression that SC AOD had a casting mark to denote that they were different than a normal AOD. If this is the case this could possible explain why the rebuild didn't last too many miles (was out of warranty by time).
Examined the case and notice no SC casting marks and no Tbird digits in the PN. I was under the impression that SC AOD had a casting mark to denote that they were different than a normal AOD. If this is the case this could possible explain why the rebuild didn't last too many miles (was out of warranty by time).
S_Mazza
Registered User
What does the top of the bellhousing look like? The SC case has multiple braces running down the "spine" of the bellhousing. As far as I know, the other AODs don't have that.
S_Mazza
Registered User
You know, I may be thinking of the AOD-E and 4R70W. But I thought the SC trans had long ribs down the top of the bellhousing. I guess I was mistaken.
All parts are in and finally installed (well tranny still needs to go in).
Got the input shaft and converter back from Alan (it and converter had too much of a interference fit), and appears now to be successfully seated.
Have the cooler mounted behind the drives fog light mount to a bracket (1/8"x 1/2"x15") that I made and bent at work to put cooler at as much of an vertical angle as I could. Mount the bracket with a 1/8" rivet and 4mm screw to the frame rail.
Hopefully tomorrow (weather permitting) will have tranny in car and driving by this Weekend.
Got the input shaft and converter back from Alan (it and converter had too much of a interference fit), and appears now to be successfully seated.
Have the cooler mounted behind the drives fog light mount to a bracket (1/8"x 1/2"x15") that I made and bent at work to put cooler at as much of an vertical angle as I could. Mount the bracket with a 1/8" rivet and 4mm screw to the frame rail.
Hopefully tomorrow (weather permitting) will have tranny in car and driving by this Weekend.
Waiting for ground to finishing drying out but will start installing in the morning.
Finished the electrical and all the interior stuff today. Using a foot headlight switch to drive the SPT-R. Since the switch as to output using a transistor to drive a LED for indicator (which I mounted low on the dash next to the console).
Finished the electrical and all the interior stuff today. Using a foot headlight switch to drive the SPT-R. Since the switch as to output using a transistor to drive a LED for indicator (which I mounted low on the dash next to the console).
