Tranny cooler install

bowez

Registered User
Where is the best place to mount the cooler (I don't like putting in front of the radiator/condenser)?

I plan on splicing in at the factory rubber lines, cut them out and put in my lines. Which is input and which is output? Also I know need some rubber line for flex but should the whole line to the second cooler be rubber or steel?
 
I had some good luck in the fog lamp opening, but eventually it was moved back in front of the radiator when Alan (DirtyDog) noticed that my forward clutches were showing signs of overheating. If you do the fog lamp opening, put a fan on it and/or make sure you have a good method to duct fresh air through the core and a way for the heat to escape.
 
You want as clean of air that you can get and preferably where the fans draws it through. I prefer not to have a fan on the cooler. Hang it as far forward as possible and use as much steel line as possible. Make sure to flare the ends to prevent the hose from blowing off where you have to connect. The Long tru-cool coolers and the B&M can be bought with 3/8 inverted flare fittings built on so the only rubber you need is the 4-6 inch section at the front of the motor to allow for motor mount flex.
Alan
 
you dont want it to run to cool, that can be just as bad as over heating it. your best off mounting it in a restricted air flow area and mount a fan to the cooler with a thermal relay mounted in the tranny to activate the cooler fan. for long distance driving the auto tranny likes it around 160-180. for short driving(10miles or less) if you get to that temp then your either running a big stall(3200+) or you have problems. if you mount it infront of the rad you will be fine for summer driving but it will run a little to cool in the winter.

imo its also good to mount an electric pressure gauge up on the hot hyd line. by watching the pressure you can detect problems early on and help prevent major damage in your tranny. i have 1 mount in the 4l60e in my suburban and it saved me about $1k on the rebuild.
 
No way, unless you are running a cooler the size of the radiator you need clean air, fans only complicate and make things more expensive. I have never seen a transmission run too cool ad I have put a 45,000BTU unit on a very mild car and monitored temps around 160. I am ok with that. You can always put some cardboard over it in the winter if it runs too cold.
Alan
 
I can attest to poor location being an issue. I have a fuel cell in the trunk of my car and figured I could locate a transmission cooling in the location of the stock fuel tank since I had lots of room there. Started with one B&M cooler didn't keep up, added a fan, didn't keep up, added a second B&M in series with a second fan and it now keeps up around town but still can't do the job if I try to drive on the highway.

I have a 3500rpm stall non-locking converter.

One of my spring projects is to relocate the coolers to the front of the car.
 
I've mounted mine where the stock IC location is since I have a front mount. I filled in around the cooler with sheet metal so the air is forced through it.

I've plumbed it so the trans fluid goes through the cooler first, then through the rad cooler, since I know the coolant in the car never goes over 200 when I'm beating on it on the road course.

So far so good... of course I'm still running direct drive with the TC so I don't get the heat build up when cruising around like the non-direct drive TC's do.

Fraser
 
I have a DIC so probably going behind the drivers fog light. I'm thinking of putting after the radiator since I don't want the radiator to use the tranny as a heat sink.
 
I've mounted mine where the stock IC location is since I have a front mount. I filled in around the cooler with sheet metal so the air is forced through it.

I've plumbed it so the trans fluid goes through the cooler first, then through the rad cooler, since I know the coolant in the car never goes over 200 when I'm beating on it on the road course.

So far so good... of course I'm still running direct drive with the TC so I don't get the heat build up when cruising around like the non-direct drive TC's do.

Fraser

sorry my brain wasnt working, this is the best way using both the tranny cooler and the rad cooler. the tranny cooler will take the brunt of the heat off and then the rad cooler will help ensure the tranny gets to a safe temp. in the summer the tranny will still run cooler than the engine due to cooler hyd from the tranny cooler entering the rad cooler vs the water return. results of this will vary depend on size and efficiency of what ever cooler you use. keep in mind no 1 persons cooling systems are going to operate the same. you might have to change things up a time or to in order to get your desired cooling. my entire cooling system is a great example of this. you here of people having over heating problems all the time. with mine i can ever seem to get it warm enough. even in the dead of summer it takes an average of 20min at 35mph to 50mph to get to full operating temp.
 
My SC setup is a hayden 679, 3/8 lines cooler mounted before the radiator, if you run a high stall and put the radiator first you will find an increase in your engine temps. Done my way you will likely find a decrease.
Alan
 
David, thats what I was refering to, but more in the center of the lower grill area in the air stream. More in front of the air dam. This would force the air accross it and still give some room between it and the rad.
 
haha they do that to get you to pay for a membership. lol joke, it is worth it. i still sit down and read for hours at times all the stuff that people have done with these cars in the past. plus it allows you to do some cool stuff with your profile. like how mine says newbie forever :D
 
Curious how yall run the lines to the cooler. If I'm looking right the line next to the lower radiator hose is where the connection should be made, how did yall navigate around the hose?
 
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