Would you use this

sccrewzer

Registered User
To start out I do plan to install a new one but just to make conversation:D
How many of you would just say f it i'll use it like this or i'll just put it on the lathe to clean it up? Its a piston of the engine i'm trying to put together.

I also took my heads to get resurfaced they told me something about a thing on the valve springs that looked to be teflon and were broken does anybody know what it could be? I don't have a valve spring compressor yet till tomorrow so I can't take it apart for some pics.
 

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it all depends on what equipment one has at there use. if you can conduct an ultrasonic ndi and it somehow passed then yes i would reuse it. since most people dont even know what that is never the less be capable of doing it, usually it would just be replaced.
 
NDI = non destructive inspection :D

Also called NDT for non destructive testing.....

We used it to check for cracks in the non rotating internal parts of steam power turbines...

I would replace the piston....
 
I would replace it too. Seems like you'd get some hot spots on that piston since there are ridges protruding (from the damage) off the piston face.
 
That question is subjective to alot of other info not provided...
Depends why I was in there to begin with.

If that was the cause of a bad motor or serious issue... hell yeah it needs to go!

If the motor was running fine and I was just replacing the heads or HG, torn down to replace valves, valve seals adding ARP studs or something else unrelated to that... then yes re-use. Assuming I knew how long ago that happened and what caused it. I would of course run a cookie wheel over it to smooth out the high spots.

looks like the sparkplug electrode broke off. I am sure that thing made noise and then without the electrode ran like crap. While troubleshooting you found the plug bad... I would have replaced the plug, then drive it to determine if anything else sounded or acted bad.
IF no other signs of damage after that, continue to drive.
IF the engine was making noise and ran like crap AFTER I replaced the plug then I would think something is wrong and definately replace it.
 
That question is subjective to alot of other info not provided...
Depends why I was in there to begin with.

If that was the cause of a bad motor or serious issue... hell yeah it needs to go!

If the motor was running fine and I was just replacing the heads or HG, torn down to replace valves, valve seals adding ARP studs or something else unrelated to that... then yes re-use. Assuming I knew how long ago that happened and what caused it. I would of course run a cookie wheel over it to smooth out the high spots.

looks like the sparkplug electrode broke off. I am sure that thing made noise and then without the electrode ran like crap. While troubleshooting you found the plug bad... I would have replaced the plug, then drive it to determine if anything else sounded or acted bad.
IF no other signs of damage after that, continue to drive.
IF the engine was making noise and ran like crap AFTER I replaced the plug then I would think something is wrong and definately replace it.
What happened is that I bought this parts car that had engine noise but also had alot of
performance parts installed so i'm tearing it down replacing worn out parts and parts that look like this. hopefully I get it all sorted out this is my first time trying to rebuild an engine so hopefully I get it right. I'll keep asking question to get different opinions from people here.
 
What happened is that I bought this parts car that had engine noise but also had alot of
performance parts installed so i'm tearing it down replacing worn out parts and parts that look like this. hopefully I get it all sorted out this is my first time trying to rebuild an engine so hopefully I get it right. I'll keep asking question to get different opinions from people here.

If that's the case, you may also have some bent rods.

David

PS: Those don't look like stock pistons.
 
What happened is that I bought this parts car that had engine noise but also had alot of
performance parts installed so i'm tearing it down replacing worn out parts and parts that look like this. hopefully I get it all sorted out this is my first time trying to rebuild an engine so hopefully I get it right. I'll keep asking question to get different opinions from people here.

Did you run the motor at all?
Was the noise from the cylinder because of the spark plug electrode or was it still making noise AFTER the pieces were cleared out?
Any damage evident on the heads/valves? Was the piece still in the cylinder when you pulled it out.

I doubt the rod is damaged from just that little piece.
Army Diesel experience talking there... glow plugs break off in the block/chamber all the time. Run the piss out of it, knock knock knock, sometimes pieces come out the plug hole other times the valves will chew up the little pieces and spit out the exhaust... NO MORE NOISE! and the motor goes on for years!

Oh yeah... make sure you get the crank checked for cracks too!!

BUT... you have it torn down... get the piston checked, the rod verified and refurbed to make sure it is straight and do a valve job, make sure you check the valves THOROUGHLY on that cyldiner. ANYTHING bent or questionable... REPLACE!
 
The marks from the plug tip wouldn't bother me a bit but the burnt aluminum on the intake valve side bothers me just a tad. :eek: I think if you take that piston out you are going to see serious heat issues on the intake side. ;) I could be wrong, but in any case I would want to see the piston out before making any assessments.
 
The marks from the plug tip wouldn't bother me a bit but the burnt aluminum on the intake valve side bothers me just a tad. :eek: I think if you take that piston out you are going to see serious heat issues on the intake side. ;) I could be wrong, but in any case I would want to see the piston out before making any assessments.

If I get a chance tomorrow I'll take it out and post some pics.
that was not the worst one I'll show you guys some real carnage the piston from the other side I'll get pics as soon as I can.
 
Did you run the motor at all?
Was the noise from the cylinder because of the spark plug electrode or was it still making noise AFTER the pieces were cleared out?
Any damage evident on the heads/valves? Was the piece still in the cylinder when you pulled it out.

I doubt the rod is damaged from just that little piece.
Army Diesel experience talking there... glow plugs break off in the block/chamber all the time. Run the piss out of it, knock knock knock, sometimes pieces come out the plug hole other times the valves will chew up the little pieces and spit out the exhaust... NO MORE NOISE! and the motor goes on for years!

Oh yeah... make sure you get the crank checked for cracks too!!

BUT... you have it torn down... get the piston checked, the rod verified and refurbed to make sure it is straight and do a valve job, make sure you check the valves THOROUGHLY on that cyldiner. ANYTHING bent or questionable... REPLACE!
I did run the engine when I first got it the first start up was noisy for about 1min then quite down after that then change oil and filter again then the noise was gone but I still felt I had to see what was going on in there and thats what I found. The head had some
had some damage on it but took it to the shop and got it resurfaced still has some pits but was told it wouldn't effect anything. The valves look good no damage that I can see.
 
Stage 2 CMRE Pistons???

LMFAO, that looks like a turbo 2.3 Ford 4 banger piston,
it comes out at .020" over for a 3.8 V6!!! OK, it is Forged,
but it is a dirt cheap commonly available Wiseco part that
just happens to fit the SC motors and has a GENERIC DISH
that DOES NOT MATCH the SC Chambers!!!
CMRE and others charge big $$$ for a set of these and anyone
with the sense that God gave a dog can source out parts like that
by comparing parts catalog data!
I guess that is why I made no money as a V6 guy, I was too HONEST!

My apologies if I am wrong, but I'd bet my next month's salary against it!
 
Stage 2 CMRE Pistons???

LMFAO, that looks like a turbo 2.3 Ford 4 banger piston,
it comes out at .020" over for a 3.8 V6!!! OK, it is Forged,
but it is a dirt cheap commonly available Wiseco part that
just happens to fit the SC motors and has a GENERIC DISH
that DOES NOT MATCH the SC Chambers!!!
CMRE and others charge big $$$ for a set of these and anyone
with the sense that God gave a dog can source out parts like that
by comparing parts catalog data!
I guess that is why I made no money as a V6 guy, I was too HONEST!

My apologies if I am wrong, but I'd bet my next month's salary against it!
When i got the car I was told they were along with the piston rods.
I have the receipt to prove it.
Now you want to send a money order or paypal me your check:D
 
Stage 2 CMRE Pistons???

LMFAO, that looks like a turbo 2.3 Ford 4 banger piston,
it comes out at .020" over for a 3.8 V6!!! OK, it is Forged,
but it is a dirt cheap commonly available Wiseco part that
just happens to fit the SC motors and has a GENERIC DISH
that DOES NOT MATCH the SC Chambers!!!
CMRE and others charge big $$$ for a set of these and anyone
with the sense that God gave a dog can source out parts like that
by comparing parts catalog data!
I guess that is why I made no money as a V6 guy, I was too HONEST!

My apologies if I am wrong, but I'd bet my next month's salary against it!

Hey there bud, chill out a little, no need for yelling. Those don't look anything like Wiseco 2.3L pistons, check their catalog if you want a good picture of what theirs look like. Watch what you accuse people of also. Coy Miller had custom pistons made by several manufacturers including BRC, J&E, and Diamond. Possibly others. Any good engine shop has access to pistons from a number of manufacturers and may select any one of them based on the particular motor they are building.

The pistons in the above photos appear to be a semi custom dish such as was often used by Diamond, but I would not claim to be able to identify the machining on that particular piston. The valve relief does appear to possibly be in the wrong position, but again I would not make that claim without checking first. There is nothing wrong with using a piston from a different application as long as it meets the requirements of the build and provides adequate valve clearance. The choice to use a quench pad or not is a matter of overall engine design and application, not a hard and fast rule for all situations.

Let the guy pull it it apart and see what he has. The parts really should go to a competent machine shop to check the condition of the parts and a call to the manufacturer on the pistons (possible once you get the part # off the bottom of them) would be a smart move as well. They will be able to tell you if they are a shelf item or custom, and in any case tell you what and where to measure them to evaluate their condition. They will also tell you the intended application and specifications if it is custom (a lot of people around here mistakenly ordered NA pistons due to poor salesmanship of the vendor).
 
The pistons look very similar to the early CMRE stage II pistons in my engine....I bet they have a BRC on the bottom of them. That damage is nothing compared to what I did to a set :eek:
 
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