Installing clutch pack in diffrential

kenewagner

Registered User
Pull the rear end tonight and pulled the old clutch packs out. Installed the new carbon clutch plates. When trying to rotate the pinion gears back into place they wont rotate back into place. The clutch packs both have a steel shim. Is it possible I need to remove one of the shims to allow the pinion gears to rotate back into place?? I might know fabrication and welding but diffrential work is not my speciality. Any help appriciated

Ken
 
Ken, Ive done it twice. Ive used every thing in the kit and stacked exactly as stock. Never had a problem. Did you soak the plates first?

Corey
 
Pull the sides back out, take a look. Pop em back in, then the 2 spiders and use your thumbs to roll em around and in. Ive never see one have a prob, your on a bind somehow I bet.
 
You threw all the old clutch shim away and are using only the one per side shim that was included correct? The spiders may need a punch and hammer to get started to rotate.
 
The carbon fiber "pucks" are thicker than conventional frictions.
I prefer to use no shims, 4 frictions per side, 3 steels per side and a f150 s-spring. If you are in doubt about thickness measure the original stack and then measure the new stack. If it goes together easy it isn't right. I usually use a brass punch to rotate the gears.
Alan
 
The carbon fiber "pucks" are thicker than conventional frictions.
I prefer to use no shims, 4 frictions per side, 3 steels per side and a f150 s-spring. If you are in doubt about thickness measure the original stack and then measure the new stack. If it goes together easy it isn't right. I usually use a brass punch to rotate the gears.
Alan


I tried again this morning. No go. Took out one of the steel shims, no go. Took out the steel shim on the other side, still no go. The thin cap or shim on the top of the rounded end of the spyder gear wants to pop off all the time and there is no just rotating the gears into place. I have checked to be sure everything is seated into place and I am using a soft punch and tapping like you suggested but it does not seem to want to slip into place. I thought the hard part would be the the big S spring that came with the kit

Ken
 

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The gears are in:D now comes the larger than stock S spring that came in the kit. Did you compress the spring in a vice and put a couple of worm drive clamps on it to hold in a compressed state???

Ken


Thats what I did. Use safty glasses incase the worm clamp lets go.
 
A 2x4 about 10" long is my special tool of choice. Saw one of the guys in the shop do it years ago. Been doing it that way ever since...Like Ricardo said though....Safety glasses though...
 
A 2x4 about 10" long is my special tool of choice. Saw one of the guys in the shop do it years ago. Been doing it that way ever since...Like Ricardo said though....Safety glasses though...

Well it is done. The 2X4 worked perfectly. Used 2 worm drive clamps and compressed the spring in a vice. Lined it up and one wack on the 2X4 drove it 1/4 of the way in, first hit. The rest of the installation went easy. Now to install it in the car tomorrow and than no more one wheel burn outs. I have to decide next if I want to redo the Exaust again. It would be nice to have the mufflers where the old fuel tank use to reside.

Ken
 
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