Rack and Pinion and Upper Control Arms

whitecl0ver

Registered User
So I just got a call from the shop. The Super Coupe is in for tires, oil change, alignment. They informed me the 'Life Time Alignment' could not be done because my Rack and Pinion is leaking, and the Upper Control Arms are just shot. They are wanting almost $900 more to replace them.

I just checked parts prices and Auto Zone has the Rack and Pinion for 89.99 with a $47.00 core. also the upper control arms are $48.99 and $38.99. I am decent with a set of tools but by no means a professional. How big of a job is this to do? Also are any special tools required?

Is this something I just just eat and let them do it?
 
Anyone that can recognize the business end of a screwdriver can change the upper control arms, the rack and pinion is a bit more involved and requires the tool to replace the inner tie rod ends but autozone will rent you that (for free) so its surely doable, then get the alignment. then you can use the saved buck for go-fast goodies.....Dan
 
Anyone that can recognize the business end of a screwdriver can change the upper control arms, the rack and pinion is a bit more involved and requires the tool to replace the inner tie rod ends but autozone will rent you that (for free) so its surely doable, then get the alignment. then you can use the saved buck for go-fast goodies.....Dan

That is what I figured about the Control Arms. I think I will save the $435 they want for the control arms, and do them myself, then let the shop change the rack and pinion. But I'm going to buy it and take it to them, since I'm sure AutoZone's $89.99 is much cheaper then they would charge me for it.
 
That is what I figured about the Control Arms. I think I will save the $435 they want for the control arms, and do them myself, then let the shop change the rack and pinion. But I'm going to buy it and take it to them, since I'm sure AutoZone's $89.99 is much cheaper then they would charge me for it.

Good luck with the buying it yourself deal...most shops won't allow that and if they do there will be NO warranty on the job. Unless the steering rack is puking fluid, it's probably okay. The end links are the parts that wear and have an impact on allignment.

If I were you, I'd just have them do the tires.

David
 
Good luck with the buying it yourself deal...most shops won't allow that and if they do there will be NO warranty on the job. Unless the steering rack is puking fluid, it's probably okay. The end links are the parts that wear and have an impact on allignment.

If I were you, I'd just have them do the tires.

David

He did mention then end links are what needed to be changed, that the rack and pinion would come with those. they are doing tires and an oil change for me. I will monitor how much power steering fluid it's loosing and make the determination from there.

I am going to do the control arms myself though....
 
make sure its not the vaiable assist sensor on the pump that not leaking and running down and dripping on the rack.
 
A leaking steering rack has no impact on alignment. Maybe you need tie rod ends and they thought they might upsell you a rack. Now, that doesn't mean that a leaking rack isn't a problem ... but I just don't see the link they were trying to make.

Replacing the UCAs is not too big of a problem. However, you will be much happier if you buy an 18mm ratcheting box end wrench. Also, note that there are little flags on the bolt heads, that you need to knock off to get good tool engagement. (They are only needed for initial assembly at the factory.) You can't see the flag on the rear bolt behind the passenger's shock tower, so that can be a pain. But a large screwdriver should let you pry it off.

Edit:
Oh, I remembered something else. There is a small elbow attached to the steering rack, into which the high pressure line connects. The elbow is hard to find. If you let the shop change the rack, make sure that they save the elbow to install on the new rack.
 
Upper control arsm as said... fairly easy if you have any skills at all.
Hard to get at the driver side rear upper control arm bolt under the master cylinder but, you can do it.

As for the Rack... if you replace the rack then also replace the inner and outer tie rod ends, make it all new.

IF you don't want to do it, take it to a local shop to do the work then take it to a different alignment shop than the first one.
You just found a shop to stay away from! Money hungry parts replacers who might be working on commission or flat rate.

Before you do anything take it to another shop for a 2nd opinion, they will look, give you the truth and more times than not be WAY under what the alignment/oil change/tire shop just quoted you.
 
What year is your SC.....

All SCs that still have OEM front end parts on them are most likely worn out....

Worn out inner tie rods can affect alignment and are very easy to replace....

End links are another easy front end part to replace....
 
Replacing the UCAs is not too big of a problem. However, you will be much happier if you buy an 18mm ratcheting box end wrench. Also, note that there are little flags on the bolt heads, that you need to knock off to get good tool engagement. (They are only needed for initial assembly at the factory.) You can't see the flag on the rear bolt behind the passenger's shock tower, so that can be a pain. But a large screwdriver should let you pry it off.

Better idea - leave the flags on there. That way the flag will keep the bolt from spinning (it's what it's there for!)

If you leave it, you don't have to worry about putting a wrench on the head.

Plus, if the bolt is in good shape, reuse it with the flag. Makes going back together MUCH easier.

When tightening, be SURE to do the final tighten with the car on the ground, so that the bushings are not bound at normal ride height. That is, use the box wrench until they start to snug, back it off maybe 1/6 turn, then finish the rest of the job. When done, put the tires back on, put it on the ground, and THEN tighten it.

I also used Loktite Red on my nuts to keep them from coming loose.

Now - when removing - it may be easier if you remove the three bolts that hold the coilover/shock assembly to the upper tub, and remove the shock mount bolt at the bottom, and remove that whole assembly. And if you're planning to reshock or respring it, NOW would be idea to do it (that doesn't affect alignment unless you screw something up, but since it's out anyway ... )

RwP
 
I have the same issue you have I have a 90sc and these parts are 20 years old and Almost every tnird I see have a torn UCA cv boot and have have some sort of play. Also my rack and pinion is leaking and have some play in the pinion pre load. But Id say DIY makes it cheaper and you get to know your car a little better.
 
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