SCI underdrive pulleys

92sclikenew

Registered User
well i bought these off a member here

and everything went well besides the alt pulley once tightened the pulley bottoms out on the alt housing..

my car is a 92

is there some kind of spacer i didn't get.. the pulley its self is a tad shorter as well..

if so could someone give me the size of what i need and ill get my dad to make it at work.

thanks!;)
 
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I don't remember needing the spacer on my 92, but those with late-model alternators will need it. There's probably some threads detailing the information.
 
i did have to shim mine when i installed it. i got a shim washer from napa that looks like a normal washer but with a razor blade you can peel very small amounts off at a time to make it the exact thickness you need.
 
I was able to use a washer about .100 thick with the OD ground down a little. Sometimes it also requires a little grinding on the alternator case.

David

i would rather have a spacer made then grind on the case of the alt..

which i know for most you may have to.. but im running a 6ribbed belt because my a/c is deleted and couldn't find a 8rib in my length.

maybe i should try to find the right belt :rolleyes:
 
i would rather have a spacer made then grind on the case of the alt..

which i know for most you may have to.. but im running a 6ribbed belt because my a/c is deleted and couldn't find a 8rib in my length.

maybe i should try to find the right belt :rolleyes:

my shims came out very close to the washer Dave used. and for the a/c delete, look for 97 f-350. that 1 has 8 rib pulley.
 
I was able to use a washer about .100 thick with the OD ground down a little. Sometimes it also requires a little grinding on the alternator case.

David

I'm working on sticking these underdrives on my car. I find that to keep the new alternator pulley lined up close to the same location as the stock pulley I'm going to need approximately a .268 spacer. With my measurements that leaves about .025 between the pulley and the face of the alternator you ground off. In addition, to be able to continue to use the lock washer and nut to hold the pulley on, I need to recess about .075 on the front face of the pulley where the washer/nut goes otherwise the nut really won't fit.

According to the measurements on my setup David, .100 spacer is just not enough to make my pulley line up the same as factory location and you probably had to grind almost the entire lip off the alternator. Not a big deal on the grinding, but I want my pulley to line up the same as factory and it just isn't close enough with .100 spacer in my case. Looks like with proper spacing I won't need to grind at all.

I know you've had these pulleys for a long time, so it must line up close enough to not hurt anything but I just wanted to share what I have found. I sat the pulleys next to each other and shimmed underneath the new pulley until the pulley grooves were level with the original pulleys grooves, Thats where i came up with .268 Back spacing needed. Why can't anything ever be a bolt-on part with these cars? Couple days and ill be back in business. I hoped to be test driving today to feel the big boom in horsepower!

Chris
 
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I'm working on sticking these underdrives on my car. I find that to keep the new alternator pulley lined up close to the same location as the stock pulley I'm going to need approximately a .268 spacer. With my measurements that leaves about .025 between the pulley and the face of the alternator you ground off. In addition, to be able to continue to use the lock washer and nut to hold the pulley on, I need to recess about .075 on the front face of the pulley where the washer/nut goes otherwise the nut really won't fit.

According to the measurements on my setup David, .100 spacer is just not enough to make my pulley line up the same as factory location and you probably had to grind almost the entire lip off the alternator. Not a big deal on the grinding, but I want my pulley to line up the same as factory and it just isn't close enough with .100 spacer in my case. Looks like with proper spacing I won't need to grind at all.

I know you've had these pulleys for a long time, so it must line up close enough to not hurt anything but I just wanted to share what I have found. I sat the pulleys next to each other and shimmed underneath the new pulley until the pulley grooves were level with the original pulleys grooves, Thats where i came up with .268 Back spacing needed. Why can't anything ever be a bolt-on part with these cars? Couple days and ill be back in business. I hoped to be test driving today to feel the big boom in horsepower!

Chris

Chris,

If it takes .268" to line up, then the pulley is not the right one for an SC alternator. I've got a March polished aluminum 3.00" diameter alternator pulley that I'm not planning to use, that I'll sell you for $30 shipped.

David
 
I actually have scp polished pulleys, maybe thats the difference. Here's a couple pictures. First one, I have .268 valve spring shims underneath the alternator pulley. As you can see from the 2nd pic, this pulley has no lip on it like the stock ones. I seen scp has a shim for the 89-93 or 94-95 application.

Chris
 

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i cant help but ask is it really worth all that hassle?

i dont know what the pricing is on the u/d pulley set but it seems a bit time consuming to replace all the pulleys

what im getting at is that it seems easier to me to just keep all your stock pulleys and bolt on a new crank pulley

took me all of 30 minutes to do and i even got 15% o/d out the deal
 
I actually have scp polished pulleys, maybe thats the difference. Here's a couple pictures. First one, I have .268 valve spring shims underneath the alternator pulley. As you can see from the 2nd pic, this pulley has no lip on it like the stock ones. I seen scp has a shim for the 89-93 or 94-95 application.

Chris

Chris,

That pulley isn't even close to being correct for an early or late model alternator. Late model pulley requires an additional .100 length spacer for correct alignment, other than that the late and early model alternator pulleys are the same. I wouldn't even think about using that pulley on a car as nice as yours.

I've got all the dimensions, because I made a batch of custom alternator pulleys a couple years ago. Let me know if you need the drawing.

David
 
i cant help but ask is it really worth all that hassle?

i dont know what the pricing is on the u/d pulley set but it seems a bit time consuming to replace all the pulleys

what im getting at is that it seems easier to me to just keep all your stock pulleys and bolt on a new crank pulley

took me all of 30 minutes to do and i even got 15% o/d out the deal

I can have the alternator off in like 2 minutes, put a impact on the pulley and whip zip. The other pulleys are simple you leave the belt on and break the bolts loose, then pull the belt off, swap pulleys, tighten them up, belt on, torque, done.

30 minutes job and a couple beers and you get 15 hp (estimated).

I have the ASP's on my car I put on when I did the BHJ balancer and I like them.
 
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Right now I'm doing a logistics type job and driving trucks in covoys over here in Afghanistan. Also doing guardian angel missions for an Army O-6.

Normally I'm a comm guy. I got an Army tasking so I had to go to Camp Bullis in TX and learn convoys, IED detection and how they are built, urban ops, squad tactics, and how to clear buildings.

This place sucks ~~~.
 
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