PDA

View Full Version : Blown38's roll bar install



BLOWN38
03-12-2011, 02:55 PM
Here is my roll bar install thread.

Main hoop is leaned back 3*
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u216/blown38/3-11-11134.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u216/blown38/3-11-11133.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u216/blown38/3-11-11136.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u216/blown38/3-11-11135.jpg

Spot cleaned on wheel house for back bar.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u216/blown38/3-11-11137.jpg

neverfastenough
03-12-2011, 03:00 PM
what are you welding with?

BLOWN38
03-12-2011, 03:08 PM
Fire! You like the soot all over the place?

With this. gasless self shielding wire.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u216/blown38/stuff054.jpg

neverfastenough
03-12-2011, 03:11 PM
yup brown soot was the giveaway:p

BLOWN38
03-12-2011, 03:19 PM
To remove the black tar sound deadning material. I used a propane torch and a rigid gasket scrapper. For the tannish/yellow seam sealer a wire brush on a drill works great.

Yeah I picked that welder up brand new for 375 bucks with the cart tax included. Heck of a deal!

Dahoopd
03-12-2011, 03:45 PM
I dont mean to dismantle the thread. But why are you/everyone installing roll bars?

Your not going to leave those seats and your interior like that are you. Your car has always been one of the ones I like most since I saw it at the JB cookout.

SCrazy
03-12-2011, 03:48 PM
I really like the way the hoop follows the vertical line of the door pilar.

BLOWN38
03-12-2011, 04:47 PM
I dont mean to dismantle the thread. But why are you/everyone installing roll bars?

Your not going to leave those seats and your interior like that are you. Your car has always been one of the ones I like most since I saw it at the JB cookout.

We are running quicker than 11.50 at the track.:D

My car will have the full interior in it. Back seats and all, may be dumb cause you really can't get back there after the bar install, but oh well. I like it too, just gives me more braggin rights, that I have full interior.:cool: Thanks Damien.

Thanks Brian, I'm putting alot of thought into it.:)

Dahoopd
03-12-2011, 04:52 PM
Does that mean you run on a regular basis? Why couldn't you just get away with it each time you go. Its not like they remember who runs and who doesn't.

Now Back to your regularly scheduled program!

nickleman60
03-12-2011, 05:18 PM
Does that mean you run on a regular basis? Why couldn't you just get away with it each time you go. Its not like they remember who runs and who doesn't.

Now Back to your regularly scheduled program!

Yes Chris runs many tracks regularly and yes they will remember you.

For me I plan on running as regular as I can, kinda got the "speed" bug now, thanks Chris and Steve.........:rolleyes:

Looking real nice Chris, I wish they would have laid my hoop back but it is what it is and I can live with it......;)

nickleman60
03-12-2011, 05:21 PM
We are running quicker than 11.50 at the track.:D

My car will have the full interior in it. Back seats and all, may be dumb cause you really can't get back there after the bar install, but oh well. I like it too, just gives me more braggin rights, that I have full interior.:cool: Thanks Damien.

Thanks Brian, I'm putting alot of thought into it.:)

I'm hoping to be able to run my same numbers with the rollbar since I'm only gaining around 35 lbs., taking into account the weight of the other stuff I removed.

I only have a MPx so I need to remove my back seat to try and keep up with the AR's and Whipples.........and I'm still way slower.........:mad:

Kevin Leitem
03-12-2011, 05:28 PM
I'm hoping to be able to run my same numbers with the rollbar since I'm only gaining around 35 lbs., taking into account the weight of the other stuff I removed.

I only have a MPx so I need to remove my back seat to try and keep up with the AR's and Whipples.........and I'm still way slower.........:mad:

we will see what my intake does for the mpx. i think it is the ticket to get the MPX working.

chris, good job on the roll bar. I am glad to see the two of you stepping up and doing things the right way. I don't know why people refuse this step because it is their but in the drivers seat.

nickleman60
03-12-2011, 06:58 PM
I am glad to see the two of you stepping up and doing things the right way. I don't know why people refuse this step because it is their but in the drivers seat.

Kevin, I agree 100% with you, it's my butt in the seat and I'm running fast enough now that God forbid something goes wrong and my azz might be in a world of hurt.

On a lighter note the others aren't fast enough for a rollbar...........:confused::confused:

Miller
03-12-2011, 09:18 PM
What did you do with the moonroof ? Looks like the glass is still in but it looks like sheetmetal on the inside ?

Regul8r
03-12-2011, 10:02 PM
I really like the way the hoop follows the vertical line of the door pilar.

+1 on this!!
I like the way it matches the lines, that makes attention to detail things look good.

The rear down bars... are you following the roof line around the top of the rear window to the wheel well?

David Neibert
03-12-2011, 10:04 PM
Nice job Chris.

David

BLOWN38
03-12-2011, 10:33 PM
Thanks guys.


What did you do with the moonroof ? Looks like the glass is still in but it looks like sheetmetal on the inside ?

The head liner is out but the slider is still there, thats the grey you see.


The rear down bars... are you following the roof line around the top of the rear window to the wheel well?

They will go straight from the bar to the plate. About 5" down from the top of the hoop. Kinda like this. That may be a good idea and doable, I'll have to look at it that way. Maybe get some PVC and map it out.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u216/blown38/Photo0787.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u216/blown38/Photo0796.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u216/blown38/Photo0788.jpg

Regul8r
03-12-2011, 11:01 PM
my thought is something like this...

47356

Maybe a little lower to see it through the window because the main hoop is see-able too.

BLOWN38
03-12-2011, 11:47 PM
It would be a sharp bend to run it more along the roof to were I have the plate. It won't be noticeable from outside my car. 5% tint all around.:)

BLOWN38
03-14-2011, 11:35 PM
What you guys think? Think I'm gonna shorten the bar up alittle so its lower and more center to the floor plate.

BLOWN38
03-14-2011, 11:41 PM
Decided to move the plate over and tie it completely into the other part of the body panel.

Drew a line on the plate where the edge of the sail panel is.

Tubing notcher from harbor freight worked pretty good.

And a couple pics with the int panel in.

Gonna be fun welding around the sail panel.:(:confused:

BLOWN38
03-14-2011, 11:50 PM
I'm also thinking my design may be able to be bolted in and out.;)

CMac89
03-15-2011, 01:46 AM
I'm also thinking my design may be able to be bolted in and out.;)

Are you talkin about a removable cage? If so, that would be a no-no, bro bro!

Also, make sure the lateral support bars aren't any lower than five inches from the top of the roll bar. The best place to put them is on the horizontal portion of the roll bar and extend them to the shock towers.

Yours will work just fine, though. Looks good, Chreeyyiiiiss!!

JeffTBird93
03-15-2011, 08:53 AM
Do you know for sure if the rear bars are legal to be put there? I asked the guy that's gonna do mine and he wasn't sure. As of now I'm planning to go straight into the trunk and try to hit the rear frame.

BLOWN38
03-15-2011, 01:41 PM
Are you talkin about a removable cage? If so, that would be a no-no, bro bro!

Also, make sure the lateral support bars aren't any lower than five inches from the top of the roll bar. The best place to put them is on the horizontal portion of the roll bar and extend them to the shock towers.

Yours will work just fine, though. Looks good, Chreeyyiiiiss!!

Yeah as in take it completely out when you don't need it. As long as the rear bars are welded to the hoop and then you have removable door bars. I think you could sneak it outta there. Plates welded to the rear bars also. Then you just need your plates on the outside and your grade 8 hardware.

Jeff, I don't see anything in the rule book that says no. If you as me, I think it has more leverage there to hold the hoop from going forward or back, as the bar is more horizontal.

BLOWN38
03-15-2011, 04:59 PM
Whoop there it is! What do ya think before I final weld it? Bar goes midway between my shoulder and elbow.

What color should I paint it? Flat grey or flat black? I could also put a set of black rear seats in it. Carpet is black.

BLOWN38
03-15-2011, 05:00 PM
One more pic.

CMac89
03-15-2011, 05:18 PM
Flat black would look sweet. Get some grey cage pads to accent the interior.

nickleman60
03-15-2011, 06:31 PM
Flat black would look better than gray IMO but Siska's does look good. I painted mine satin black.

BLOWN38
03-15-2011, 10:02 PM
Got the pass side bar notched and cut to length. Prolly tack it in tomorrow then finish weld them thursday.

JeffTBird93
03-15-2011, 10:22 PM
I'll sell ya my rear seat. Flawless shape.

BLOWN38
03-15-2011, 10:39 PM
All black, perferated? What you want for it? Not that I need more of them.:D

Regul8r
03-15-2011, 11:40 PM
I'll sell ya my rear seat. Flawless shape.

If he isn't interested and it is a black cloth I'd be interested.

JeffTBird93
03-16-2011, 09:01 AM
Black leather, perforated, with the Bird emblems stitched in the backs.

I had one guy that offered me $175 for it, but he's sporadic in contacting me and quite frankly I'm tired of it. I'm open to any offers since it's just sitting around doing me no good.

Regul8r
03-16-2011, 10:01 AM
Black leather, perforated, with the Bird emblems stitched in the backs.

I had one guy that offered me $175 for it, but he's sporadic in contacting me and quite frankly I'm tired of it. I'm open to any offers since it's just sitting around doing me no good.

not for me. I need cloth.

JeffTBird93
03-16-2011, 10:53 AM
Chris, if you'd be interested in doing another cage, I'd do a partial trade for the seat for some welding work...then pay whatever else you'd charge...

BLOWN38
03-16-2011, 12:20 PM
Send me a pic of the seat. And give me a call later.

Ira R.
03-16-2011, 12:35 PM
Does the rear seat still fold down??

Ira

BLOWN38
03-16-2011, 12:49 PM
Does the rear seat still fold down??

Ira

You saw the pic in post 26 didn't you?;)

95badbird
03-16-2011, 05:45 PM
looks good......



I did notice in the nhra book, that it says to tie the rear bars directly over the middle of the rear end assembly.

BLOWN38
03-16-2011, 08:28 PM
looks good......



I did notice in the nhra book, that it says to tie the rear bars directly over the middle of the rear end assembly.

Thanks, what year book is that in? I didn't buy this years book but I have 09 and 10.

Ira R.
03-16-2011, 10:04 PM
You saw the pic in post 26 didn't you?;)

Actually I missed it. But I see it now.

Ira

BLOWN38
03-16-2011, 11:26 PM
The money shots! Its tight gettin the seat back in there... hope I can get it back out to final weld the bars up.

nickleman60
03-17-2011, 06:05 AM
Lookin' good my friend.

JeffTBird93
03-17-2011, 10:18 AM
That looks slick!

90coug
03-17-2011, 10:42 AM
It looks really good, job well done.

kenewagner
03-17-2011, 01:35 PM
starting to think I will have to have one so I can join the club. Looks real nice

Ken

David Neibert
03-17-2011, 01:37 PM
Chris,

Are you going to do a removable cross bar to retain rear seat access ?

David

BLOWN38
03-17-2011, 07:53 PM
Chris,

Are you going to do a removable cross bar to retain rear seat access ?

David

Not sure yet. I'm gonna full weld the back bars tonight then wedge the cross bar in and see what its like to climb over it. It is fairly low but just high enough to get your legs under it while in the back. I only plan to haul a couple kids back there on a very rare occasion. So they should be able to climb over no prob. I should have some cross bar pics up tonight for ya.

BLOWN38
03-18-2011, 12:35 AM
Not much of an update. Got the back bars welded in. Here's a pic of the welding blanket... now I'm ichy.:(

JeffTBird93
03-18-2011, 10:32 AM
Did you get the pics I sent the other day? Need bigger pics? Sorry I've been busy in the evenings, keep forgetting to give you a shout.

95badbird
03-18-2011, 11:26 AM
Thanks, what year book is that in? I didn't buy this years book but I have 09 and 10.

i have an 08 book, but the 2011 PDF file for the book still shows a picture of where they tie into....which is directly over the rear axle.

BLOWN38
03-18-2011, 11:31 AM
Yeah I got the pics Jeff. They do look nice, but I have too many seats as it is. If you had a good full leather 94-95 driver front seat from a SC, then we would be talkin!

JeffTBird93
03-18-2011, 11:47 AM
Yeah I got the pics Jeff. They do look nice, but I have too many seats as it is. If you had a good full leather 94-95 driver front seat from a SC, then we would be talkin!

LoL...I have the fronts that are both equally nice, both power. They only thing is the need to have the bolsters "retucked" since they things that hold them in popped loose. I'd sell all of them, but then I wouldn't have anything to sit in! :)

BLOWN38
03-18-2011, 12:55 PM
I meant to add TAN in the description for the front seat.:o

I have an excellent set of black seats in the red car I have and would like to put tan back in that.

JeffTBird93
03-18-2011, 02:31 PM
Dang. You said you have a notcher? How easy is it to use? Would you be willing to rent it out? I think I'd probably be able to weld my hoop and rear bars in to save myself some installation costs.

BLOWN38
03-18-2011, 10:28 PM
Notcher was 40 bucks at harbor freight then like 5 bucks for a hole saw.

BLOWN38
03-19-2011, 09:53 PM
Cross brace is in. Top half of bar and hoop welds are painted. Top half of back seat is never coming out again, unless its possible thru the trunk. Need to order the swingout kits and harness tabs for the cross bar.

nickleman60
03-19-2011, 10:03 PM
Who's that dude sitting in the garage, in his car with his helmet on.....DORK..........:D

Chris I have a set off harness tabs that I bought and didn't use, you can have them for shipping.

BLOWN38
03-19-2011, 10:19 PM
Cool I was just looking at those. Let me know what shipping is and I'll paypal ya.

BLOWN38
03-19-2011, 10:28 PM
You just using a wrap around harness?

BLOWN38
03-19-2011, 10:52 PM
They aren't chromoly right?

Ira R.
03-20-2011, 04:56 AM
That's a great install job Chris. Can't wait to see it up close.

Ira

nickleman60
03-20-2011, 07:42 AM
They aren't chromoly right?

No


You just using a wrap around harness?

Yes

JeffTBird93
03-21-2011, 10:02 AM
You have any links to the notcher and hole saw you used on HF? I'm gonna attempt this myself...at least the hoop and back bars. Did you cut any of the piping? Joker said it was a royal pain to work with.

BLOWN38
03-21-2011, 10:41 AM
Here's the link to the notcher. You will need to get 3 washers to space the pipe holder part of the notcher out 1/16" so its centered on the pipe. If you read the reviews for the notcher they say that in there too. Might want to get a level and a magnetic angle finder too. I also used a miter saw with a cutoff wheel to cut the pipe shorter and do the straight angles. tubing notcher (http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=tubing+notcher)

If you have a sunroof you have to cut about 2" off the bottom of the hoop.

I think the back bars into the trunk are cut fine. May need to reangle them at trunk floor if you have to shorten hoop.

The door bars will need to be cut on the floor side.

I also renotched the cross bar to raise it 2" since it was out of spec(more than 4" below shoulders) when the main hoop was shortened. If no sunroof then the cross bar should be good.

Make sure you clean the body sealer off both sides of the car good. I put one of the plates between the body and the gas tank to sheild the tank from the heat when welding the rear part of the main hoop plates. Also wedged something between the floor and fuel/brake lines to keep the heat off them.

JeffTBird93
03-21-2011, 11:24 AM
Great, thanks for the info! Do you remember what size hole saw you used on the pipe? Same size as the pipe is I would think?

BLOWN38
03-21-2011, 12:03 PM
Great, thanks for the info! Do you remember what size hole saw you used on the pipe? Same size as the pipe is I would think?

yup 1-3/4. also should have a grinder.

SCrazy
03-21-2011, 02:34 PM
Chris....was this a kit??

BLOWN38
03-21-2011, 03:10 PM
Chris....was this a kit??

Yeah S&W. We did a group buy on 5 and they knocked it down to 129/ kit.:) Plus shipping. Kinda sucks, bought a whole kit for 129 and the swingouts from Chris Alston's are 125 a side.:rolleyes:

JeffTBird93
03-25-2011, 09:07 AM
Probably start on this this weekend. Question for the more experienced people...

My dad will be doing most of the welding since he's been doing it for years and years. We've got my 110v wire feed, and his 220v arc welder. He's more comfortable with the arc welder and has more experience with it. Do you think it'd be too much for welding the plates to the body, depending on how much we can turn it down?

kenewagner
03-25-2011, 09:24 AM
Probably start on this this weekend. Question for the more experienced people...

My dad will be doing most of the welding since he's been doing it for years and years. We've got my 110v wire feed, and his 220v arc welder. He's more comfortable with the arc welder and has more experience with it. Do you think it'd be too much for welding the plates to the body, depending on how much we can turn it down?

If he is good and use a small diameter rod it is doable but a pain. The car's body is very thin. The mig will likely work best.

Ken

JeffTBird93
03-25-2011, 09:43 AM
If he is good and use a small diameter rod it is doable but a pain. The car's body is very thin. The mig will likely work best.

Ken

That was my thinking...wasn't sure if it'd burn a hole in the floor.

BLOWN38
03-25-2011, 09:49 AM
and i've found with the mig, go at a very sharp angle to the body, almost parallel to the body to keep from punching thru. also make sure the outside where you are welding is clean. cause if it flames up it tends to push thru the weld. the arc would prolly work for the pipe to plate but the rules state mig.

BLOWN38
03-25-2011, 09:54 AM
i used the lowest voltage setting and wire speed of 2 for the plates with .035" gasless wire.

kenewagner
03-25-2011, 10:48 AM
i used the lowest voltage setting and wire speed of 2 for the plates with .035" gasless wire.

I am almost sure, if my car gets into the low to mid 11s I will be installing one. The floor plates will be welded in vie a mig welder but I would tig all the pipe vs using the mig. So much cleaner and percise.

Ken

BLOWN38
03-25-2011, 10:51 AM
I am almost sure, if my car gets into the low to mid 11s I will be installing one. The floor plates will be welded in vie a mig welder but I would tig all the pipe vs using the mig. So much cleaner and percise.

Ken

Yeah tig is nice.

kenewagner
03-25-2011, 10:54 AM
Yeah tig is nice.

I am glad you & Nickleman have detailed your roll bar install so detailed so us little guys dont have to reinvent the wheel;)

Ken

BLOWN38
03-25-2011, 12:21 PM
I am glad you & Nickleman have detailed your roll bar install so detailed so us little guys dont have to reinvent the wheel;)

Ken

Try to help out the community when I can. Wouldn't say I'm reinventing anything, just trying to evolve things.:)

All the stuff you do helps too. Gets minds thinking in other directions.

Stay tuned for my cheaper clevis style swingouts that my mind got to thinking after seeing Nickleman's install.;)

David Neibert
03-25-2011, 12:46 PM
Chris,

The more I look at how you ran the rear support bars, the more I like it.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47557&d=1300586022

As opposed to the pro street style bars I was planning to use, that follow the roof line and rear glass then enter the trunk through the rear deck, doing what you did would be much easier and cleaner. It keeps the welds away from the headliner and allows for a max height hoop and it also removes the headache of relocating stuff currently on the tray inside the trunk where my bars would be entering the trunk if going through the rear deck. Not having to loose space inside the trunk is also a big plus.

Hope you don't mind, that I'm planning to copy that portion of your roll bar.

David

BLOWN38
03-25-2011, 01:22 PM
Chris,

The more I look at how you ran the rear support bars, the more I like it.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47557&d=1300586022

As opposed to the pro street style bars I was planning to use, that follow the roof line and rear glass then enter the trunk through the rear deck, doing what you did would be much easier and cleaner. It keeps the welds away from the headliner and allows for a max height hoop and it also removes the headache of relocating stuff currently on the tray inside the trunk where my bars would be entering the trunk if going through the rear deck. Not having to loose space inside the trunk is also a big plus.

Hope you don't mind, that I'm planning to copy that portion of your roll bar.

David

Copy away bro! Thats why I documented it. My calculations where good on the hoop too, headliner fits perfect. No trouble at all getting it in and the bar is like 1/8" below it. Just remember to put the sail panels in before the rear bars and the back seat in before the cross bar.;)

You can thank Ira too. He prolly got me going in this direction in the first place. Being he needed to be able to haul as much stuff cross country to go racin against all us fools.:)

JeffTBird93
03-25-2011, 01:39 PM
I really like those the more I see them too. The bars just look better at that angle. I'm just concerned about the legality of them at the track.

Mike8675309
03-25-2011, 02:17 PM
I really like those the more I see them too. The bars just look better at that angle. I'm just concerned about the legality of them at the track.

For the intended speeds of the car, I would be shocked if anyone has an issue. By the time they might, there are plenty of other things on the car that will need to be worked over as well.

David Neibert
03-25-2011, 03:03 PM
For the intended speeds of the car, I would be shocked if anyone has an issue. By the time they might, there are plenty of other things on the car that will need to be worked over as well.

That's the same thing I was thinking.

David

BLOWN38
03-25-2011, 03:32 PM
There's a ton of mustang kits that are the same.:)

And most of the pro street bars you see are not technically legal either. Should only have one bend in them at not more than 30*.

Rule states, main hoop should be sufficiently braced from forward, rearward and lateral collapse.

JeffTBird93
03-25-2011, 03:57 PM
Then that's what I'm gonna plan on!

I'd throw the rear seat in there since I'm not having much luck moving it, but there's no point in having the rear fold down since I'm gonna need a firewall back there.

BLOWN38
03-29-2011, 01:24 AM
Got the drivers door bar and swingout in. So I could go racing now if I wanted. But I'll put the passenger door bar in first. I'll get some pics up later.

TSC89
03-29-2011, 12:36 PM
Nice work Chris.

BLOWN38
03-29-2011, 10:54 PM
Here's my door bar install. Think it worked out well. Makes a nice arm rest.

I bought the ART roll CAGE swingout kits like Nickleman did at 65 a set instead of the Chris Alston kits at 125 a set. But what I did was have a piece of bar bent then I cut a groove in it to weld the tab in.

Got the bar to go over the leg bolster on the seat and between the shoulder and side boulsters and just sneaked past the door panel.

BLOWN38
03-29-2011, 10:58 PM
I'm gonna get some washers and cut them in half to plug the holes on the lower tab.

kenewagner
03-30-2011, 08:24 AM
Looks real close to the arm rest. What are you going to paint it all with?

Ken

BLOWN38
03-30-2011, 11:49 AM
Rustoleum flat black.:)

kenewagner
03-30-2011, 12:03 PM
Here's my door bar install. Think it worked out well. Makes a nice arm rest.

I bought the ART roll CAGE swingout kits like Nickleman did at 65 a set instead of the Chris Alston kits at 125 a set. But what I did was have a piece of bar bent then I cut a groove in it to weld the tab in.

Got the bar to go over the leg bolster on the seat and between the shoulder and side boulsters and just sneaked past the door panel.

Nicely engineered. This has give me a lot of thought as I feel sometime in the future I will be doing this as well. Can one buy just the main hoop anywhere? Im sure everything else I can reproduce without cost of buying it from someone else. Guess I will see sometime this spring if I am running fast enough to need one:D

Ken

BLOWN38
03-30-2011, 01:07 PM
I would give S&W a call they may sell you just the hoop. The standard mild steel kit is 190 mild steel kit (http://www.swracecars.com/store/8-Point-Roll-Bar-OSCARItem_29=11-3068.aspx). Chromoly is 400chrome kit (http://www.swracecars.com/store/8-Point-Roll-Bar-OSCARItem_117=11-3068-CM.aspx).

If you have a sunroof see if they can make the top half(above the door bends) 1 3/4" shorter, but leave the legs the same length. So you can put the cross bar right at the door bend instead of above it. Like I had to so its not lower than 4" from your shoulder.

kenewagner
03-30-2011, 01:49 PM
I would give S&W a call they may sell you just the hoop. The standard mild steel kit is 190 mild steel kit (http://www.swracecars.com/store/8-Point-Roll-Bar-OSCARItem_29=11-3068.aspx). Chromoly is 400chrome kit (http://www.swracecars.com/store/8-Point-Roll-Bar-OSCARItem_117=11-3068-CM.aspx).

If you have a sunroof see if they can make the top half(above the door bends) 1 3/4" shorter, but leave the legs the same length. So you can put the cross bar right at the door bend instead of above it. Like I had to so its not lower than 4" from your shoulder.

Cool, thanks
What is the weight savings with the Chrom kit

Ken

BLOWN38
03-30-2011, 04:01 PM
Cool, thanks
What is the weight savings with the Chrom kit

Ken

They say 30%. Which I weighed the standard kit and it was 100. So should be like 70 for chromoly.

95badbird
03-30-2011, 04:24 PM
They say 30%. Which I weighed the standard kit and it was 100. So should be like 70 for chromoly.

mine complete was 90 lbs shipped.

I wonder if your bars were longer for some reason.

nickleman60
03-30-2011, 05:03 PM
The installation looks great Chris.

BLOWN38
03-30-2011, 08:03 PM
mine complete was 90 lbs shipped.

I wonder if your bars were longer for some reason.

You could be right. I can't remember how I weighed it. Think I weighed all the bars that came wrapped together then the hoop by itself. The door bars where way too long that is for sure.

Roadhawg
03-30-2011, 08:07 PM
Rustoleum flat black.:)

I used Rustoleum Satin Black....:cool:

BLOWN38
03-30-2011, 08:14 PM
Thanks Kieth.

Just gotta cut the passenger door bar to length and weld the upper tab. Then I want to get some smaller diameter tube to brace the lower door bar legs. The floor flexes quite a bit. What I recommend for future reference is to drill hole in the plates and weld inside the holes to the floor to stiffen it up some more. I think since mine are already in there I'm going to drill holes all the way thru towards the center of the plate and put bolts thru it.

95badbird
03-31-2011, 09:37 AM
Thanks Kieth.

Just gotta cut the passenger door bar to length and weld the upper tab. Then I want to get some smaller diameter tube to brace the lower door bar legs. The floor flexes quite a bit. What I recommend for future reference is to drill hole in the plates and weld inside the holes to the floor to stiffen it up some more. I think since mine are already in there I'm going to drill holes all the way thru towards the center of the plate and put bolts thru it.

weld all the unibody seams...it stiffens it up quite a bit.

BLOWN38
04-01-2011, 12:18 PM
Finally all the main stuff is done! Just need to do some finishing touches on it, pull it out of the garage, paint it and put the car back together.:cool:

BLOWN38
04-04-2011, 11:28 PM
Here's some more pics. I'll get some with the door bars in once the paint drys more. The 1" od support bar really stiffened that mount up.

BLOWN38
04-05-2011, 09:49 PM
Well its starting to look like a car again.:)

Pro tip for the day! Listen carefully. Before you go to fit the carpet around the roll bar at the main hoop. Heat the hard plastic backing on the carpet backside and peel it off. Makes fitting the carpet SOOOO much eaiser. ;)

Edit: I was able to remove the whole back seat out through the trunk. For weight savings if needed.:)

EDIT END OF ROLL BAR INSTALL IN THIS THREAD Lots of BS after this.:)

nickleman60
04-05-2011, 10:21 PM
This site won't let me open the pics right now but from what I can see it looks pretty good. Aren't you glad that a rollbar install is a one time deal? I know I am..........:rolleyes:

BLOWN38
04-05-2011, 10:40 PM
Yes I am so happy that is over with. Just think what it would have been like if you had to weld it all in.:)

kenewagner
04-06-2011, 07:42 AM
This site won't let me open the pics right now but from what I can see it looks pretty good. Aren't you glad that a rollbar install is a one time deal? I know I am..........:rolleyes:

Yeh I cant open any of the pictures. Looks good from what I can see

Ken

neverfastenough
04-06-2011, 09:54 AM
Yeh I cant open any of the pictures. Looks good from what I can see

Ken

Whens it your turn Ken?

kenewagner
04-06-2011, 09:59 AM
Whens it your turn Ken?

Pretty sure I will have to install one, maybe even this summer. All these other guys are giving me good ideas.

Ken

neverfastenough
04-06-2011, 10:13 AM
Pretty sure I will have to install one, maybe even this summer. All these other guys are giving me good ideas.

Ken

Sounds good, I think zimmerly may be needing one as well.

rzimmerl
04-06-2011, 10:28 AM
Sounds good, I think zimmerly may be needing one as well.

Not gonna ever happen for my car. Its a cruiser not a race car, and I'd rather slow it down to put the car seats safely in the backseat then install a rollbar. My kids enjoy it too much taking it to go cruising and get ice cream in the summer, that means more to me then running 11.5's.

neverfastenough
04-06-2011, 10:35 AM
Not gonna ever happen for my car. Its a cruiser not a race car, and I'd rather slow it down to put the car seats safely in the backseat then install a rollbar. My kids enjoy it too much taking it to go cruising and get ice cream in the summer, that means more to me then running 11.5's.

Just means you need to buy another, a 5spd.

BLOWN38
04-06-2011, 10:40 AM
Just means you need to buy another, a 5spd.

yup, thats what i did. cause you know them 5 speeds can't go quicker than 11.5

rzimmerl
04-06-2011, 10:41 AM
Na, ain't got the budget to support 2 modded SC's :p. Who knows what will happen if the AOD dies, a 5 speed could go in or a 6 speed if that swap becomes a common practice.

neverfastenough
04-06-2011, 10:42 AM
yup, thats what i did. cause you know them 5 speeds can't go quicker than 11.5

Wanna bet?

kenewagner
04-06-2011, 12:46 PM
yup, thats what i did. cause you know them 5 speeds can't go quicker than 11.5


Dang:D i wanted to say that;)

Ken

kenewagner
04-06-2011, 12:49 PM
Not gonna ever happen for my car. Its a cruiser not a race car, and I'd rather slow it down to put the car seats safely in the backseat then install a rollbar. My kids enjoy it too much taking it to go cruising and get ice cream in the summer, that means more to me then running 11.5's.

Than you wont need to do anything more to your motor like valve train or cam;):D:D:D

Ken

BLOWN38
04-06-2011, 01:23 PM
What I think someone should do is like in the april(i think) issue of MM&FF. It involves puttin GM junk in the car tho. Is TCI has a kit for the 4L80E, or something like that, that makes it a 6 speed auto and you can do paddle shifter too. Real close ratios too, to keep you in the sweet spot.:cool: They have a SBF bell housing so that parts easy. Hears the link http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/projectcars/mmfp_1105_tci_6x_six_speed_automatic_transmission/index.html

rzimmerl
04-06-2011, 03:07 PM
Than you wont need to do anything more to your motor like valve train or cam;):D:D:D

Ken

Na, you can still have an "11.5 car" with more horsepower then needed to get there.;)

David Neibert
04-07-2011, 02:13 PM
Na, you can still have an "11.5 car" with more horsepower then needed to get there.;)

Yep..you sure can :) It's easy to go slower.

David

kenewagner
04-07-2011, 03:10 PM
Na, you can still have an "11.5 car" with more horsepower then needed to get there.;)

Thats a new way of thinking. Spend more money on performance mods like a bigger cam, better valve train so you can stay the same ET in the quarter mile:confused: Your going to want to turn that beast loose the first time we line up again on the starting line again, common admit it:D:D

Ken

neverfastenough
04-07-2011, 03:27 PM
Thats a new way of thinking. Spend more money on performance mods like a bigger cam, better valve train so you can stay the same ET in the quarter mile:confused: Your going to want to turn that beast loose the first time we line up again on the starting line again, common admit it:D:D

Ken

Well since all you blower cars are basically identical anymore in terms of suspension, engine components, tire size, air fresheners, boost, throttle bodies, cams, spark plugs, pullies, weight, etc, all he has to do is compare his 1/8 mile times to you roll bar guys and just lift at the 1/8. He'll probably be able to estimate his 1/4 within a tenth:p

edit: putting on helmet as typing:o

kenewagner
04-07-2011, 03:51 PM
Well since all you blower cars are basically identical anymore in terms of suspension, engine components, tire size, air fresheners, boost, throttle bodies, cams, spark plugs, pullies, weight, etc, all he has to do is compare his 1/8 mile times to you roll bar guys and just lift at the 1/8. He'll probably be able to estimate his 1/4 within a tenth:p

edit: putting on helmet as typing:o

You hit it on the nose Corey. We are all the same;) WICKEDLY QUICK. The common denometer among the blower guys;):D:D:D The common denometer of the turbos is ROW ROW, ROW your manual slowly down the track, merrily merrily merrily merrily life is only a fast trap speed.:p Now, I'll go get my helmet:D

Ken

neverfastenough
04-07-2011, 04:08 PM
Well wickedly quick with no surprises, anyone can look and see what they need to do to win. I can walk down a row of all your cars, twin screw atleast, and call a 1/4 pretty dang close to what it actually runs. We know in the parking lot who the guy to beat is on friday. But if I walked thru the parking lot, saw one centrifugal, one big n2o car, custom intakes, liquid to air IC's, stand alone computers, anything that isnt the sccoa norm. Id be like hmmmmmmm. If me, wises old car, casey, ryan, etc all showed up one time, no one would have a clue what they ran. Hell I bet I can even call all the fuels next year in a line of twin screw cars, c16,c16,c16,c16,c16, maybe vining on e85. Oh and c16 in a bunch of random amounts of pump gas mixed in.:p Its getting similar to stock long block cars(not being able to surpass 300rwhp). I walk up to a twin screw car and say" well I know it can only make this much power, since they all have the same intakes, same fuel, same heads, and so on." The things that separate you all are, a tq coverter and some window tint. And this isnt all blower vs turbo, its almost more 5sp vs auto. Innovation is needed to get these 5spd cars as boring and predictable down the 1/4 as the twin screw AOD's and hopefully from that inovation some cool advances come along that everyone can make use of.

Not knocking anyones car here, these cars included in this paragraph are all gorgeous, run stupid quick, and have all beat me. But do you guys really even need to open your hoods at the car show next year?

edit, puts on second helmet, fire suit, knee pads, and a cup.

kenewagner
04-07-2011, 04:54 PM
Well wickedly quick with no surprises, anyone can look and see what they need to do to win. I can walk down a row of all your cars, twin screw atleast, and call a 1/4 pretty dang close to what it actually runs. We know in the parking lot who the guy to beat is on friday. But if I walked thru the parking lot, saw one centrifugal, one big n2o car, custom intakes, liquid to air IC's, stand alone computers, anything that isnt the sccoa norm. Id be like hmmmmmmm. If me, wises old car, casey, ryan, etc all showed up one time, no one would have a clue what they ran. Hell I bet I can even call all the fuels next year in a line of twin screw cars, c16,c16,c16,c16,c16, maybe vining on e85. Oh and c16 in a bunch of random amounts of pump gas mixed in.:p Its getting similar to stock long block cars(not being able to surpass 300rwhp). I walk up to a twin screw car and say" well I know it can only make this much power, since they all have the same intakes, same fuel, same heads, and so on." The things that separate you all are, a tq coverter and some window tint. And this isnt all blower vs turbo, its almost more 5sp vs auto. Innovation is needed to get these 5spd cars as boring and predictable down the 1/4 as the twin screw AOD's and hopefully from that inovation some cool advances come along that everyone can make use of.

Not knocking anyones car here, these cars included in this paragraph are all gorgeous, run stupid quick, and have all beat me. But do you guys really even need to open your hoods at the car show next year?

edit, puts on second helmet, fire suit, knee pads, and a cup.


Well wickedly quick with no surprises, anyone can look and see what they need to do to win.

I would say if anyone can fabricate their own Whipple setup from scratch there should be a dozen or so at the next shootout;)


And this isnt all blower vs turbo, its almost more 5sp vs auto. Innovation is needed to get these 5spd cars as boring and predictable down the 1/4 as the twin screw AOD's and hopefully from that inovation some cool advances come along that everyone can make use of.


Very true but untill then your wood chuck better get better at chucking wood. He getting pretty far behind;):D


But do you guys really even need to open your hoods at the car show next year?


How can I beat Duane for most chrome under the hood in the car show without opening the hood:rolleyes::D:D

Ken

Nettlesd
04-07-2011, 05:32 PM
How can I beat Duane for most chrome under the hood in the car show without opening the hood:rolleyes::D:D

Ken

That's a fact. You can beat me without even opening the hood. :D It's all good anyway and I can't wait for this Shootout with all the racing and good looking cars. This is one thing I always look forward to each year.

ricardoa1
04-07-2011, 07:17 PM
How exciting.....Predictability=Consistent kind of goes together doesnít.

Lets see if I can keep from buying another serious car, for the next two or so months. If I can keep my pen in my pocket and not sign any notes or titles, Ill be back with a vengeance. LOL Oh and no roll bar.

BLOWN38
04-07-2011, 09:17 PM
Only fast cars need roll bars.;)

So my car is predictable. When Ryan's car makes more HP but I run 1 sec quicker.:rolleyes:

neverfastenough
04-07-2011, 09:30 PM
Only fast cars need roll bars.;)

So my car is predictable. When Ryan's car makes more HP but I run 1 sec quicker.:rolleyes:

well at the same elevation, it wasn't 1 sec quicker. And you have a lot more seat time, and the ability to tune. Ryans car was peg legging I believe, you have a spool, you have more gear. So that covers some of the small difference in time. So take your engine, stick in in his car, doubt it runs any different. Which brings me back to, all the twin screw engines run basically identical. Little differences in tunes, your spool, shift points, traction are the only thing that separates the blower cars. The variety in engine and trans and forced induction isnt there. Theres always small exceptions, Im just speaking of the majority.

nickleman60
04-07-2011, 10:20 PM
well at the same elevation, it wasn't 1 sec quicker. And you have a lot more seat time, and the ability to tune. Ryans car was peg legging I believe, you have a spool, you have more gear. So that covers some of the small difference in time. So take your engine, stick in in his car, doubt it runs any different. Which brings me back to, all the twin screw engines run basically identical. Little differences in tunes, your spool, shift points, traction are the only thing that separates the blower cars. The variety in engine and trans and forced induction isnt there. Theres always small exceptions, Im just speaking of the majority.

So what are you saying? I know what I'm saying and it's run what you brung, whatever it may be, no excuses, first one across the line wins, enough said.............

neverfastenough
04-07-2011, 10:26 PM
So what are you saying? I know what I'm saying and it's run what you brung, whatever it may be, no excuses, first one across the line wins, enough said.............

Nothing i was saying had anything to do with winning or bench racing, I was simply stating all the twin screw cars have basically identical potential, similar power and engines. Its starting to become nascar. MPX's on the squeeze were not really the topic of my little soap box story.

nickleman60
04-07-2011, 10:37 PM
Nothing i was saying had anything to do with winning or bench racing, I was simply stating all the twin screw cars have basically identical potential, similar power and engines. Its starting to become nascar. MPX's on the squeeze were not really the topic of my little soap box story.

Might not have been the topic but since I'm the only one running the juice with a qiuick time and it was in your thread I had to respond with a question, that's all.

BLOWN38
04-07-2011, 10:37 PM
Ok we'll say .7 quicker.:) Still a pretty big margin. Not knockin your car Ryan. Just a turbo guy lookin for excuses.;)

I'm not done tweekin yet either. Now I don't have to worry about bein kicked out. Ima put my street tires on and hit the track just for you, Cory.:) Last time I did that it ran 12.5.

neverfastenough
04-07-2011, 10:39 PM
Ok we'll say .7 quicker.:) Still a pretty big margin. Not knockin your car Ryan. Just a turbo guy lookin for excuses.;)

I'm not done tweekin yet either. Now I don't have to worry about bein kicked out. Ima put my street tires on and hit the track just for you, Cory.:) Last time I did that it ran 12.5.

Guess that means I have a 12.50 car

BLOWN38
04-07-2011, 10:57 PM
Guess that means I have a 12.50 car

Alright ROLL BOY! You gonna be at the ohio picnic? Pick a track;) and lets get it on!:D

neverfastenough
04-07-2011, 11:55 PM
40-140?

BUT, im not screwing around this year at the shootout, if it holds together, its going fast.

BLOWN38
04-08-2011, 12:30 AM
Whatever you think you can do in the 1/4 mile.;)

rzimmerl
04-08-2011, 07:22 AM
Ok we'll say .7 quicker.:) Still a pretty big margin. Not knockin your car Ryan. Just a turbo guy lookin for excuses.;)

I'm not done tweekin yet either. Now I don't have to worry about bein kicked out. Ima put my street tires on and hit the track just for you, Cory.:) Last time I did that it ran 12.5.

No hard feelings Chris, its impressive what you have achieved and have prepared to do to go faster. Its not worth me preparing to go faster since the nearest track is 2 hours away, and I maybe go twice a year. I'm just gonna dial in what I got, get a reliable shortblock and call it a day. If its a dyno queen, and I happen to get kicked out of the track for going to fast someday, so be it....most likely it will be against Ken anyways:p:D

Corey, your just that guy always stirring the pot.:) Its going to be an interesting year thats for sure.

David Neibert
04-08-2011, 10:54 AM
Nothing i was saying had anything to do with winning or bench racing, I was simply stating all the twin screw cars have basically identical potential, similar power and engines. Its starting to become nascar. MPX's on the squeeze were not really the topic of my little soap box story.

Corey,

The twin screws are very popular, because they are an easy bolt on upgrade that pretty much anyone can do over the weekend, and they make great power easier than falling off a log. Keeping it supercharged to remain true to car's heritage and performing as well on the track as they do on the dyno, makes it a no brainer.

I think there is still plenty of variety among the twin screw cars, and the potential of each combo varies a great deal.

David

PS: If your serious about competing on the track against the faster twin screw cars, you will need to switch back to an automatic transmission with a trans brake.

neverfastenough
04-08-2011, 11:21 AM
PS: If your serious about competing on the track against the faster twin screw cars, you will need to switch back to an automatic transmission with a trans brake.

I don't really believe this, I think the turbo cars have the ability to make power up to basically their turbo size and how much boost they want to run. I see 800rwhp possible. Pair that with a solid rear end and a viper spec t56 built up, I see 9 sec stick cars. Efficient at 800 hp, no, but we arent building drag cars here.

Corey

kenewagner
04-08-2011, 11:45 AM
I don't really believe this, I think the turbo cars have the ability to make power up to basically their turbo size and how much boost they want to run. I see 800rwhp possible. Pair that with a solid rear end and a viper spec t56 built up, I see 9 sec stick cars. Efficient at 800 hp, no, but we arent building drag cars here.

Corey


I dont think anyone will disagree with you about making big power from a turbo. I think everyone is just saying man up to the plate and put it to the ground. You are making more HP than almost everyone in the club but you are probably not even in the top ten ET wise. Daves new tranny project might change all that but the manual guys need to make the necessary changes to make you competive with the autos. Otherwise you are just dreaming of low ETs and the auto guys are waving time slips in the real world. I was on V6 power the other day and noticed that the top Dyno guy (GT Eater) making 660 HP with a manual but is number 10 on the ET chart. The second place on the dyno chart (Matthewneuharth) made 638 with an auto and he is the number 1 guy on the ET chart with a 9.8 ET vs the higher HP guy with an 11.58 over 1.7 seconds diffrence. Seems that the auto vs manual is not just an SC thing

Ken

neverfastenough
04-08-2011, 11:50 AM
Did you guys really expect me to run my best first pass out of the gate? Do we not remember me breaking a cv shaft on my second pass? And I had driven my car 4hrs to the track. I havent had a chance to prove anything.

XR7 Dave
04-08-2011, 11:53 AM
Cory, Cory, Cory. Shame on you for acting your age. ;)

So twin screw's are predictable huh? The fact that you can make a good guess about supportable HP based on pulley diameters makes the whole car predictable? So the fact that a turbo can hide it's boost potential behind a boost controller and the relative lack of knowledge of visual recognition of turbo size nomenclature by a bunch of supercharger guys makes the turbo unpredictable and therefore somehow superior?

Maybe I'm missing the point, but it seems childish either way. Whenever you think you know what's up about predicting stuff and your car's ET is more than 2x your age, then you have a lot to learn grasshopper. :cool:

neverfastenough
04-08-2011, 12:04 PM
Cory, Cory, Cory. Shame on you for acting your age. ;)

So twin screw's are predictable huh? The fact that you can make a good guess about supportable HP based on pulley diameters makes the whole car predictable? So the fact that a turbo can hide it's boost potential behind a boost controller and the relative lack of knowledge of visual recognition of turbo size nomenclature by a bunch of supercharger guys makes the turbo unpredictable and therefore somehow superior?

Maybe I'm missing the point, but it seems childish either way. Whenever you think you know what's up about predicting stuff and your car's ET is more than 2x your age, then you have a lot to learn grasshopper. :cool:

Its the boost controller, SIZE, theres twin scroll, journal bearing, ball bearing, custom wheels, billet wheels, etc. Is there really any difference between an ar, a kb, a whipple. If your sat all the rotor packs in front of me i wouldnt be able to tell i dont think. And its funny that the smaller ones are beating the 2.3's. I see no blower guys raggin on blower guys. Ive also never said the turbo was superior, I said it was more innovative and more difficult to perfect. However it seems the way im takin that they must be easier to perfect and 12.40 is all it has because thats what it ran the first pass.

David Neibert
04-08-2011, 12:19 PM
Did you guys really expect me to run my best first pass out of the gate? Do we not remember me breaking a cv shaft on my second pass? And I had driven my car 4hrs to the track. I havent had a chance to prove anything.

Corey,

Your car isn't set up for drag racing and it would very likely destroy my 91 SC from a 60 mph roll or at speeds exceeding 140 mph. Just saying that if you want it to perform as well on the dragstrip, the easiest and cheapest solution is an automatic transmission. A built AOD or 4rw70 or whatever it's called would be plenty strong and would not require switching to a solid rear axle. What you give up, is the ability to run at full power above 3rd gear.

You could also use a TH-400 with gear vendors OD and apply all 800 rwhp up to whatever speed the car was capable of pushing through the atmosphere. If my existing AOD fails, that's the direction I'll be going with my 93 SC.

David

CMac89
04-08-2011, 12:23 PM
I dont think anyone will disagree with you about making big power from a turbo. I think everyone is just saying man up to the plate and put it to the ground. You are making more HP than almost everyone in the club but you are probably not even in the top ten ET wise. Daves new tranny project might change all that but the manual guys need to make the necessary changes to make you competive with the autos. Otherwise you are just dreaming of low ETs and the auto guys are waving time slips in the real world. I was on V6 power the other day and noticed that the top Dyno guy (GT Eater) making 660 HP with a manual but is number 10 on the ET chart. The second place on the dyno chart (Matthewneuharth) made 638 with an auto and he is the number 1 guy on the ET chart with a 9.8 ET vs the higher HP guy with an 11.58 over 1.7 seconds diffrence. Seems that the auto vs manual is not just an SC thing

Ken
GT-Eater ran that with a Vortech blower and nitrous. Still should have gone faster since he trapped 124mph, but it wasn't at 660rwhp, which would be even worse.

Sticks don't need to be proven, because it's simple physics. In Stock and SuperStock classes (NHRA/IHRA), the stick cars have to run in their own classes and the index is 1.5 tenths faster than the auto cars. Why? Because you can make a stick car faster than an auto. Reason being that they make more rwhp; therefore, there is more acceleration.

Stick cars just take more effort to make fast. It's okay to take the easy way out, but good things don't come easily.

BLOWN38
04-08-2011, 12:31 PM
You could also use a TH-400 with gear vendors OD and apply all 800 rwhp up to whatever speed the car was capable of pushing through the atmosphere. If my existing AOD fails, that's the direction I'll be going with my 93 SC.

David

No no Dave. The 4L80E six speed conversion TCI makes. I linked it earlier.

David Neibert
04-08-2011, 12:52 PM
No no Dave. The 4L80E six speed conversion TCI makes. I linked it earlier.

Chris,

I read that article, but the one thing they fail to mention is how much power it will handle in overdrive. If it's only able to handle full power up to the 1:1 ratio, then it won't help me at speeds over 140. I'm sure that having 5 gears to reach 1:1 ratio would be quicker on the track than having 3 to get there, but I don't think I would like it on the street.

David

XR7 Dave
04-08-2011, 01:02 PM
I'm sure that having 5 gears to reach 1:1 ratio would be quicker on the track than having 3 to get there, but I don't think I would like it on the street.

David

5 gears on the strip is a waste of time and would be slower than what you already have. Gear changing on a car like yours is a total waste of time.

old_coot
04-08-2011, 01:02 PM
No no Dave. The 4L80E six speed conversion TCI makes. I linked it earlier.


It is very interesting but at 5G+ it's a bit much for some of us. I've been looking at it for some time though. The shifting is way too easy to set up but I'm sure there is something I'm not aware of, like line pressure etc.......Dan

David Neibert
04-08-2011, 01:47 PM
5 gears on the strip is a waste of time and would be slower than what you already have. Gear changing on a car like yours is a total waste of time.

Yeah...that 1-2 shift comes on real quick and the 2-3 shift isn't far behind. The only way I could imagine using 5 gears, is if a computer was doing the shifting. On the street I like only having the the three gears, because the engine has enough torque that I can use 3rd anywhere between 35 and 140 mph. Thought I would hate it on the street, but I really like having the full manual VB on this car. No upshifts sooner than you want and best of all, no unexpected downshifts.

David

ricardoa1
04-08-2011, 01:49 PM
Its the boost controller, SIZE, thereís twin scroll, journal bearing, ball bearing, custom wheels, billet wheels, etc. Is there really any difference between an ar, a kb, a whipple. If your sat all the rotor packs in front of me I wouldnít be able to tell I donít think. And its funny that the smaller ones are beating the 2.3's. I see no blower guys ragging on blower guys.


Actually there are many differences most just donít know what they are because they donít own one. ;) For example I could not tell you the difference between a Paxton or a Vortex or even a Procharger, They are all Centrifugal blowers to me. I donít dare say though that they are not any differences between them.

Did you even know that there is more then one style 1.7L AR? And if you put them side by side you would think that one is bigger then the other.

Did you know that Whipples have a different lobe count then an AR and KB, Did you know that KB has a bigger bore and larger rotors then a an AR?
Pulley combos?
Bet you didnít.

I bet you do know of the many different combos of a turbos and hybrids between turbine, compressor and exh housings ect. But do you know what size and combo is ideal? Is the turbo you have ideal? All of those variables for turbos give so many different results and since the club has not dedicated enough time in turbo matching, maybe cause a lot of guys donít want to go turbo in a SuperCharged Coupe, are uncertain and rather play it safe.

kenewagner
04-08-2011, 02:35 PM
that the smaller ones are beating the 2.3's. I see no blower guys raggin on blower guys. Ive also never said the turbo was superior, I said it was more innovative and more difficult to perfect. However it seems the way im takin that they must be easier to perfect and 12.40 is all it has because thats what it ran the first pass.

Corey, you and Casey are two smart guys. You both running turbos and manuals. I doubt if you had more passes you would have gain almost a full second. And Casey I beleive what you say about manuals being faster in some classes. You guys both are like Kings on the Dyno and that cool:cool: but if you are going to go faster in a supercoup you need to do the work boys and get those cars down the track competively with the autos. Diffrent manual, diffrent gearing, diffrent air freshener;) I dont know but the fact is these predictable auto, supercharged cars are winning at the track over turbo, manual cars. So you guys need to do work as one guy once told me.
Also Corey my car only made 5 passes at the shootout. First one data logging with a 200 lb passenger, ran a 12.00. Second one a 11.69 minus the passenger, 11.7 next run. Michael ran it to a 11.7 and than I red lighted and ran a 12.0 in the first heat. I had a slipping diffrential spinning one wheel off the line. My tach was not working so I let the car shift its self, probably around 5400 rpm vs 6000 to 6200 it should have been had I manually shifted. also had a blown resonator. So no excuses, we all have excuses as to why we run like we do;) Shows us this year if a turbo can walk all over a supercharger;) or throw away your wood chuck saying:D

Ken

XR7 Dave
04-08-2011, 03:01 PM
Eh, we all know woodchucks don't chuck wood. Superchargers are much better than a turbo. Ask Audi why they ditched the turbo. :eek:

neverfastenough
04-08-2011, 03:11 PM
Eh, we all know woodchucks don't chuck wood. Superchargers are much better than a turbo. Ask Audi why they ditched the turbo. :eek:

And ford just started putting them on everything:rolleyes: Put on the boxing gloves, ill be there in a few hours:p Skinny white guy battle 2k11

kenewagner
04-08-2011, 03:18 PM
And ford just started putting them on everything:rolleyes: Put on the boxing gloves, ill be there in a few hours:p Skinny white guy battle 2k11

Dont forget your helmet and safety equipment:D

Sorry Chris for getting carried away on your roll bar thread. I like the way it looks, and I think theres one in my future

Ken

BLOWN38
04-08-2011, 07:48 PM
Dont forget your helmet and safety equipment:D

Sorry Chris for getting carried away on your roll bar thread. I like the way it looks, and I think theres one in my future

Ken

Yeah its seems the roll bar has gone to the wayside, to the SC/turbo battle again. I don't really care tho, atleast it started after I was finished. So for future reference you don't have to go thru the BS to get to the real intent of the tread.

BLOWN38
04-19-2011, 11:17 PM
All back together.

VicRattlehead
04-20-2011, 12:09 AM
PS: If your serious about competing on the track against the faster twin screw cars, you will need to switch back to an automatic transmission with a trans brake.

i dont know about that, a properly built stick can be just as fast as an auto.

JeffTBird93
04-20-2011, 03:58 PM
Looks great Chris! Any chance you'd have any interest in doing just my hoop and the rear bars? I could bring it to you and you could keep it as long as you needed.

nickleman60
04-20-2011, 06:53 PM
All back together.

looks good, I see you bought (2) 5 point harnesses, do you plan on riding tandem down the track?

Roadhawg
04-20-2011, 07:00 PM
looks good, I see you bought (2) 5 point harnesses, do you plan on riding tandem down the track?

If so, he will have to pedal the car down the track, as a lot of tracks only allow people to ride along if the car is 14.99 or slower.

BLOWN38
04-20-2011, 09:21 PM
If so, he will have to pedal the car down the track, as a lot of tracks only allow people to ride along if the car is 14.99 or slower.

I think its 14.0 and slower. The passenger belt came with the seats and are way out of date. So i put it over there incase I go road racing... I heard the instructors like the same saftey equipment the driver has.;)

Jeff, give me a call saturday. We may be able to work something out.

BLOWN38
10-24-2011, 12:50 PM
Update. I was able to remove the complete back seat with the roll bar installed, for the weight savings.

Ira R.
10-24-2011, 02:54 PM
Update. I was able to remove the complete back seat with the roll bar installed, for the weight savings.

Excellent :D

Ira

kenewagner
11-08-2011, 03:25 PM
Here's some more pics. I'll get some with the door bars in once the paint drys more. The 1" od support bar really stiffened that mount up.

What size pin are you useing for the swing bars on your roll bar? They look like about 1/2" in the picture

Ken

BLOWN38
11-08-2011, 04:10 PM
I'll measure for you. But they come with the swing out kits. They have a detent ball in them too.

kenewagner
11-08-2011, 05:02 PM
I'll measure for you. But they come with the swing out kits. They have a detent ball in them too.

I have access to everything to build a roll bar including the pin with a detent ball in it. Am figureing out material for now before getting further into it. I have a very long wish list for the winter:D

Ken