Got the engine tore down in my 92 SC. Aftermarket part identification help.

J

JC316

Registered User
Finally got the engine apart on my 92 SC 5 speed. Source of the knock was the number 1 rod had no bearing and number 4 rod had a spun bearing. The crank doesn't look too bad, I think it can be turned since the bearings were standard. I found ARP Head studs, ARP main studs, Sealed Power H675CP .50MM pistons and what I think to be an aftermarket connecting rods. Now, I am finding very little info on that piston, I am concerned about what kind of rod to use with it if the rods aren't fixable.

Found a very old thread here about this piston which stated that it might need a different connecting rod if the compression ratio is different than stock.
 
Those are stock replacement pistons from Sealed Power for a .50mm or .020 inch overbore on the block. Factory rods will work. Do you have a picture of the rods that you have?
 
STEVE29 said:
Those are stock replacement pistons from Sealed Power for a .50mm or .020 inch overbore on the block. Factory rods will work. Do you have a picture of the rods that you have?
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Awesome. Yeah, I can snap a pic of them tomorrow. Figured that the block was bored, but I didn't know how much. The rods should be fixable. Also, are the stock valve spring a beehive style with an outer and inner spring? Trying to figure out exactly what was done.
 
neverfastenough said:
If the rod bearing was gone gone, I doubt that crank is worthy of saving.
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I may need two of those rods if mine aren't fixable.

Looks to me like the rod bearing was never there, like someone forgot to install it when they did an engine rebuild. I really didn't find metal shavings or anything else in the pan. Oddly enough, the bearing that actually spun is the one that has more damage than the one with no rod. Worst case, Rock Auto has a manufactured crank for $160. I will drop the stuff off at the machine shop, see if it's worth saving.
 
Mike Puckett said:
I bet that Rock Auto crank has been turned and is .010 under.
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Supposed to be standard. Looking like that is what I am going to have to do. Machine shop CAN fix it, but it involves welding and the cost is around $300. Here is what it says about the rock auto crank:

# Thermal Cleaned
# Steel shot blasted
# Boltholes and keyways inspected
# Worn journals are restored
# Bearing journal surfaces are machined, polished
# Oil holes chamfered and deburred
# Oil line passages clean and rust inhibitor applied
# Crankshafts are packed and covered with two-mil poly film and encapsulated with sprayed foam
# Main and Rod Bearings are included
 
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