View Full Version : Seized Bolts

04-17-2011, 11:56 PM
hey everyone

stupid question here, but to me it seems these thunderbirds bolts like to get stuck over time and not spin out. Had the problem with my white 89 and today on my black 89. 4 bolts holding the belt accessory brackets are seized into the block, I have had luck with this craziness before but it has been a while for me. Has anyone here had luck with anything that works well with this issue, besides using a air compressor instead of by hand or drilling into the bolt?

04-18-2011, 08:20 AM
when you get them out, use neverseize on EVERYTHING!

04-18-2011, 09:14 AM
Just like the above x2....

I use a product called Aero Kroil aka Kroil Oil....

04-18-2011, 09:57 AM
Accessory bracket bolts are pretty big. I just use a 1/2" drive socket wrench with the right socket and if necessary a 18" bar. I don't recall having much difficulty with those bolts.

04-18-2011, 10:28 AM
I've got one snapped off in a head.

PO tried drilling and easy out. So its snapped off in there now to.

Have welded nuts on 3 times and still no go.

Next is milling machine and heli coil.


04-18-2011, 11:24 AM
Geez, I would have thought the aluminum in the cylinder head would give before the bolt would snap. I've used a long 2 ft breaker bar and 1/2 inch socket to get them out, but I haven't seen any that have been REALLY stuck.

04-18-2011, 12:28 PM
Anytime you have dis-similar metals (steel bolts in an aluminum head) you should use some sort of anti-sieze on them.....

Electolosis and corrosion can occur which causes the bolts to sieze up...

04-18-2011, 12:39 PM
I'll have to try all these ideas. What I think is these bolts haven't been taken off before, with the age of the car and a little rust some are a pain in the ~~~. on my white tbird the valve rockers are seized bad I had to drill them out :(

04-18-2011, 12:56 PM
Here are some tips ...

Any time you use Anti-seize or Lubrication for Bolts, you need to Reduce the Torque value so you do not Over-tighten the bolts afterwards.

Sometimes it helps to take a center punch and hammer and punch the center of the bolt head before attempting to remove it. The shock can break the threads loose.

Left hand threaded Drill bits = big time saver. They sell these in multipacks .. sometimes the drilling with the left hand just gets them going.

Heating the aluminum .. apply parafin wax ( not candle wax you sillies ) to the bolt. This works Great on things like Pipe thread plugs seized in the block .. they will be so tight before, but after the heat and wax soaks up, the threads will usually un-screw with your fingers.

... Ive taken about 12 broken bolts out of vehicles in the last 2 weeks. 9 of them were Head bolts on a 2004 GMC Envoy - apparently, its COMMON for these aluminum blocks to break bolts. Left hand drill bit took care of 3, the rest came out with an EZ-out. GM has a whole techincal bulletin on the broken bolts being common. Then I had a Thunderbird with a 5.0 engine, brokenbolt in the head for the intake manifold - after attempting to drill ( my buddy drilled a little off center ) - we ended up having to drill it out completely and heli-coil the head.

Always use a Brand new EZ-out and Brand new Drill bit. The extra money you spend here on a new bit and Ez-out ( with the proper size drill of course ) .. may make the difference between a Broken EZ-out, and an Extracted bolt.

- Dan