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View Full Version : Look at all this extra weight



Silenced
04-20-2011, 09:54 PM
Man, I'm going to be sooooo slow lugging all this extra weight around!!! :rolleyes:

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/216525_576938425735_212401823_32671978_742997_n.jp g

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/207927_576938500585_212401823_32671979_2663581_n.j pg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/221686_576938515555_212401823_32671980_1025458_n.j pg

BLOWN38
04-20-2011, 10:00 PM
Looks pretty good! But I think you should try and move the radio up or down so the 2 black plates are together or paint the ac and idiot light plates silver too.

Silenced
04-20-2011, 10:21 PM
Looks pretty good! But I think you should try and move the radio up or down so the 2 black plates are together or paint the ac and idiot light plates silver too.

I actually like that idea. Trade the radio and dummy panel, and make it more useful

seawalkersee
04-25-2011, 01:01 AM
I think I am going to have you beat. With the rust holes that are starting to appear, I will have more speed holes than sheet metal below the doors on my junk. If I get red running this year, the 2 stage will be the end your your little kitty mister...if...:o

SWS

TSC89
04-25-2011, 09:11 AM
Looks really great Ryan. I assume this is all the work you and Joel did a couple of weeks ago.

Silenced
04-25-2011, 09:51 AM
Looks really great Ryan. I assume this is all the work you and Joel did a couple of weeks ago.

Thanks Jim. Yep, pretty much. The switches have been in for a long while, and are awesome looking. I just need to fix that damn flex plate now

seawalkersee
04-25-2011, 12:39 PM
What did you do to make the swithches that color? I want to get mine that way so they match everthing else in the car.

SWS

Silenced
04-25-2011, 03:38 PM
What did you do to make the swithches that color? I want to get mine that way so they match everthing else in the car.

SWS

Joel did it :cool:

Thunder95
05-12-2011, 04:10 PM
I just heard via msn, that the vpn, is afu again! So Rybear wuz like...

http://files.sharenator.com/oh_noes_Oh_noes-s500x375-49739-580.jpg

seawalkersee
05-17-2011, 02:41 PM
Uhhhh...what does that mean? And what do you do to make the door lights blew?

SWS

Silenced
05-18-2011, 10:46 AM
LEDs! And Resistors!

The N/A tune was happy, and I had a free evening. Time to move it.

The Cougar's manifold has been removed. I'm getting rid of the plenum spacer, cleaning things up, and finalizing as much as I can... Fixing the paint that chipped off... Game time.

Thunder95
05-18-2011, 10:52 AM
Uhhhh...what does that mean? And what do you do to make the door lights blew?

SWS

I just drain the green blinker fluid and fill it up with some blue or red stuff I got with my fast n' furious blu-ray box set.

You want a set? We could do blue on top and red on bottom! And a piezo speaker on them so when you hit a button it makes a siren noise!

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS9R1EXcGJT6sKGX4cRTa2tlBsmAGKyQ 4l6aX6PKKyAInzVqgy6&t=1

Silenced
05-18-2011, 11:04 AM
i just drain the green blinker fluid and fill it up with some blue or red stuff i got with my fast n' furious blu-ray box set.

You want a set? We could do blue on top and red on bottom! And a piezo speaker on them so when you hit a button it makes a siren noise!

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:and9gcs9r1excgjt6skgx4crta2tlbsmagkyq 4l6ax6pkkyainzvqgy6&t=1

Lol WINNING :D

Thunder95
05-18-2011, 11:05 AM
Lol WINNING :D

Oh yeah, this is totally happening!

seawalkersee
05-18-2011, 10:26 PM
Actually...Yeah...I DO want a set. Makes the car run 12s right?

SWS

TSC89
05-20-2011, 02:46 PM
Ryan, what did you use to strip the rubberized coating off of the bezel and console top? Brake Fluid?

I have several pieces I need to strip for the new project.;)

sinhumane
05-20-2011, 03:29 PM
yep.... good old dot3 bath will pull that stuff off there. soak overnight, remove, flush, scrub with a brillo pad, rinse and use some simple green, purple power, etc.. on it to degrease and remove any residual brake fluid. rinse well and dry. let it air dry for a couple hours and then sand it for prep.

TSC89
05-20-2011, 03:31 PM
OK, Thanks Tyler.

I am actually thinking about having the pieces "wrapped".

Silenced
05-20-2011, 04:11 PM
I didn't have the greatest luck with the DOT3... Ended up using aircraft remover, and then sanding all the melted places down lol

TSC89
05-20-2011, 05:33 PM
I read over on TCCoA where a couple of the guys there used Kleen Strip Clear Coat Remover.
I have a can of that so I guess I will try it first.
I already have spare interior pieces in case of melt down.

Thunder95
05-20-2011, 05:59 PM
Spray strippers WILL melt the plastic, as Ryan said. Best luck I have had was with superclean (much longer process, but left the plastic alone) and brake fluid. With brake fluid, make sure you scuff up the pieces first, so the fluid can soak in. Like Tyler said though, make sure they get a good wash afterwards cause if left there long enough it will melt them as well. That stuff has been a pain to me many a time!

As far as having them wrapped... I've done it twice, and let me tell you it is TOUGH to get right. First time was in black velvet, and was decent, second time in black shine velvet and was much easier. BEWARE though, it's gotta be some seriously strechy stuff. I attempted in suede once, and man, all but impossible without sewing.

Keep in mind, this is all for 94-7 interiors... might not be relevant to your project... unless you have somethign up your sleeve! :eek:

TSC89
05-20-2011, 09:17 PM
I was thinking of taking the pieces to a place in Edwardsville called "The Wrap Factory" and see if they would do them. They "wrap" complete cars, trucks, vans and other stuff.

sinhumane
05-21-2011, 04:03 PM
wrapping is more than doable... from what i gather, you're doing an interior swap?

as far as brake fluid goes, so long as it doesnt have silicone in it, leave it in a bath overnight and the coating will just flush right off.

Silenced
05-23-2011, 12:17 PM
Tailshaft bushing changed.
Vaccum lines consolodated into quick connect fitting.
Trans cooler lines securely mounted.
Power steering lines securely mounted.
Misc Paint cleanup.
Cut fender lip where tire was grabing.
Misc wiring cleanup (More).
Another vacuum line gone.
Plenum spacer removed.
EVAP system removed.
Bumper cover skirt re-fastened.
Other misc fixes.

Now onto the interior.

3.15 pulley on the way.

TSC89
05-23-2011, 02:21 PM
Is there any wiring left in that car?:p

Silenced
05-23-2011, 03:05 PM
Just a bit...

I have a good deal of controllers all linked togeather... EDIS, Megasquirt, TCS, Methanol controller, Auxillary MAP sensor, a few sensors on the stock ecu...

Most are hardwired into the car.

The power distribution portion of the factory wireloom has been removed (Wires to the alternator, ground straps, etc), and put in it's own tidy little area so it doesn't have to be removed to work on the engine.

The sensors like the Crank Position, and Oil Pressure have been wired to the stock ECU and to MS via their own harnesses

This lets me have a single bulkhead going to the important sensors on the intake manifold. Pull that one connector off, and the entire intake comes out. Injectors, Coils, everything.

seawalkersee
05-27-2011, 02:38 PM
Just a bit...

I have a good deal of controllers all linked togeather... EDIS, Megasquirt, TCS, Methanol controller, Auxillary MAP sensor, a few sensors on the stock ecu...

Most are hardwired into the car.

The power distribution portion of the factory wireloom has been removed (Wires to the alternator, ground straps, etc), and put in it's own tidy little area so it doesn't have to be removed to work on the engine.

The sensors like the Crank Position, and Oil Pressure have been wired to the stock ECU and to MS via their own harnesses

This lets me have a single bulkhead going to the important sensors on the intake manifold. Pull that one connector off, and the entire intake comes out. Injectors, Coils, everything.

Translation:
Batt wires, Coil power and pip wires, plug wires, starter wire, 1 wire from alt.
All you will ever need for daytime track driving.

SWS

Silenced
05-27-2011, 02:40 PM
Translation:
Batt wires, Coil power and pip wires, plug wires, starter wire, 1 wire from alt.
All you will ever need for daytime track driving.

SWS

Kitty is COP

TSC89
05-27-2011, 02:40 PM
Ryan's New Title:

Wizard Of Wiring!

seawalkersee
05-28-2011, 05:01 PM
Kitty is COP

Yeah...I know. But we are talking about getting rid of wires. Fewest possible is that way.

Ya know.

SWS

Silenced
05-28-2011, 06:54 PM
Blower is in, and running. UPS Screwed up my shipment real bad, and I won't have my high boost pulley until Tuesday.

Peaking 8PSI 6300rpms. Couldn't dial the tune in last night due to irratic voltage to my ECU. I have my suspects, though, it's too rainy to check

ganuolfthegrey
05-31-2011, 01:32 PM
yea plus your know skinny kid either. damn you better lose weight with all that stuff. lol:D

kenewagner
05-31-2011, 02:05 PM
Blower is in, and running. UPS Screwed up my shipment real bad, and I won't have my high boost pulley until Tuesday.

Peaking 8PSI 6300rpms. Couldn't dial the tune in last night due to irratic voltage to my ECU. I have my suspects, though, it's too rainy to check

What are your expectations HP wise?

Ken

Silenced
06-01-2011, 09:22 AM
What are your expectations HP wise?

Ken

I asked for 330rwhp with a stock pulley when I had Jim O'Neill build the motor. That was 4 years ago. Since then, I've upgraded blower trims, and changed pulleys. Eventually it'll see around 15 psi.

Right now, poorly tuned, stock 3.6 pulley, choked exhaust, I'd say about 300 at the wheels.

With a 3.15 pulley, 8 rib conversion if needed, and exhaust cutouts with the correct tune, I'd expect closer to the 400s.

Power isn't much over a well running V8 until about 4000rpms. Fortunately, that's where my converter stalls.

kenewagner
06-01-2011, 10:34 AM
I asked for 330rwhp with a stock pulley when I had Jim O'Neill build the motor. That was 4 years ago. Since then, I've upgraded blower trims, and changed pulleys. Eventually it'll see around 15 psi.

Right now, poorly tuned, stock 3.6 pulley, choked exhaust, I'd say about 300 at the wheels.

With a 3.15 pulley, 8 rib conversion if needed, and exhaust cutouts with the correct tune, I'd expect closer to the 400s.

Power isn't much over a well running V8 until about 4000rpms. Fortunately, that's where my converter stalls.

Sounds like it will be really quick:D

Ken

Silenced
06-06-2011, 09:25 AM
Took the car out with the new pulley this weekend.

I'm seeing 11.5psi at 6000rpms. I've got timing set to scale back from 12* to 6* as the blower temperatures rise from 120 to 200*f. Above that, timing sharply drops off. I am losing power there for sure, but until I do a bit more research, I like the safety measures.

Methanol STILL does not work. Too much and it causes a bad misfire. I need to order a different nozzle. The whole plan is that the methanol cools the charge, and the open element temperature sensor adds more timing in to take advantage of it.

I raced a truck that ran a 13.4 from a dig. He was on radials and hooked right off the line. I spun, spun, spun, finally hooked, rocketed into second, converter locked, heald solid, and I plowed by him hard going about 100.

You can definately feel the car pushing you back in the seat now. It's amusing. I think it's time to get some tires. I tried a 20mph punch, just spun there. 30mph, I spin a little bit, then chirp and skate a bit on the 1-2 shift.

ganuolfthegrey
06-07-2011, 02:28 PM
you need to get a snow kit. they are way better.
and if you get the maff kit. it's even better.:D

Silenced
06-07-2011, 04:53 PM
you need to get a snow kit. they are way better.
and if you get the maff kit. it's even better.:D

I don't have a MAF on my car to begin with. The only difference btwn the kit I run and the snow kit is the controller. They both come on at half power at low load, and switch to full under higher power