Random check engine light

T

TinManSC92

Registered User
Driving down the highway, the check engine will come on and the car will run rough with a small loss of power. It only lasts for about 3 or 4 seconds then return to normal.
Now the check engine light will come on just after starting and run rough. Even while driving it hasn't the ability to increase power over a 1/4 throttle. misses and wants to almost die out unless I back off the accelerator.
Then after 5 min. the light goes out and everything returns to normal.
Nothing on the searches resembles this condition.
Anyone else ever experience this condition? And, what in the world could cause this strange occurrance.
 
Have you pulled the stored codes off the PCM yet?

Before you ask what of the hundreds of possible conditions can cause the PCM to pull timing and screw up performance, I'd see what the PCM THINKS is happening (which may or may not be happening, understand, but it's good to start with the known error codes ... )

RwP
 
No! I haven't done that. When, and if, it ever stops raining around here I'll get to that. Just thought it might have been something more obvious. But, thanks for that answer Ralph.
And, I'll post my findings when I get back.
 
KOEO... 124 217 565
KOER... 225
Does this ean my DIS modual is junk?
And, where is the canister circuit located? and what's it's primary function for pollution control?
 
If I remember correctly, the purge canister is located behind the bumper and the passenger side fender.....
 
Yes, it sounds like your DIS is dying. Mine failed in a very dramatic ON - OFF manner, somewhat similar to what you are describing. The car would barely run ... then run fine. Then barely run. Et cetera, et cetera.

The canister purge solenoid is a simple solenoid valve that opens from time to time to let the engine vacuum pull accumulated gasoline vapors out of the charcoal canister. If you look down behind your passenger side headlight, you can see the solenoid and some of the lines. The lines are probably shot by age at this point. You can replace the solenoid and lines without removing any extra parts, by reaching up from the bottom and down from the top. To remove the entire canister, however, I think you need to remove the splash shield from the fender.

The knock sensor and TPS codes may or may not mean anything. Did you do the part of the KOER test where you hit the throttle?
 
Well, thanks for all that helpful info. And, yes I did get to that part with the pump of the accelerator. KOER....But, why do you ask? curious!
 
TinManSC92 said:
Well, thanks for all that helpful info. And, yes I did get to that part with the pump of the accelerator. KOER....But, why do you ask? curious!
Click to expand...

You know, I guess it's irrelevant, because those codes were stored, not running. I was thinking that maybe they happened because you didn't do that part of the test, but I guess not.
 
KOER I get a 137, does that usually mean oxygen sensor?

sorry about the double post
 
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Awesome! Glad it is running well.

For the evap system - I think the charcoal canister is probably okay. But the solenoid may be bad. I wasn't sure about the solenoid, but my soft lines were very rotted, so I replaced both them and the solenoid and cleared my code. It was finicky, but not terrible.
 
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