pushing oil

spetz01

Registered User
I seem to have an oil leak...out the top of the dipstick?

It had blown all over the intercooler lines and made a hell of a mess.

Now I had it out this weekend and its coming from the front of the oilpan, but not the dipstick. It's only got 2500kms on the rebuild, I've never had a gasket go like that.

Do any of you guys use a vented cap on the oil fill? I'm not sure but i think i've got crank case pressure issues.
 
I haven't heard of that one. I don't have a vented cap. If you can, wipe the whole motor down as best you can, (or a power washer at a car wash) run it for a few minutes or miles, and look at it real good again. Then you should be able to start narrowing down the culprit. I had a messy leak from the front of my engine right after a complete rebuild. It wasn't bad, about half a quart between oil changes. But it was one messy S.O.B. Turns out, my front oil leak was coming from a bad front cover. It had a small knick in the hole where the front seal goes around the crank. I replaced the timing cover and the mess is gone! :D:D
 
But that doesn't explain the huge blast from the dipstick. I mean that thing is 18" or so. Thats a long way for oil to "splash" up a tube that 3/8" in diameter, with a cap on it.

When I first rebuilt it, I would get a lot of vapor, but that seemed to go away.

This car isn't really driven old lady like, I think its happening under big boost conditions.
 
sounds like blow-by... or it could be a clogged PCV valve aggravating your crankcase pressure issues... I would start with a compression/leakdown test to see if compression is getting past the rings into the crankcase...
 
If I'm honest, this car is running way to good to have a hole in a piston.

I've got this car on the back burner for now. I'm installing an Air Ride Tech full suspension in my 63 Chevy II right now.
 
You either have a clogged pcv valve or a broken ring. I had the same problem last year..but mine ended up being the cylinders were bored too far.
 
If you messed with the vacuum lines you may have crossed them and sending boost into the PCV system, like I did on Drummer's car last year.
 
Well I got the bottom end all cleaned out and took the Coupe out for dinner. I noticed while going hard up a hill a lot of dirty smoke coming out from the backend...not white smoke at least.

Got it up on stands after work today and had a look. Lots of oil, but not at the front, but lots on the bottom of the oil pan and tranny.

F'n dipstick has a crack in it. Right above where it enters the engine, There's a flare in it, right there its open. So I guess its been spraying out of there, right onto the header an inch away.

So I sealed it up and changed the oil. hope that was the fix.
 
I'm a little confused regarding oil coming "out" of the dipstick, it seems to be a common problem on some of the modified cars, especially one with big boost.

I get that the PCV works on vacuum taking excess gas out of the crankcase and recirculates it to be re-burned.

When I check my PCV for vacuum at idle I get approx 15 in/hg. Now when I'm driving the car hard and develop lots of boost, say 18 psi+, does the PCV system draw more vacuum to compensate for the extra pressure.

I wanna say there's an extra 4 psi in the crankcase, is that pushing oil up the dipstick?

Any thoughts or corrections?
 
There is one that passes in front of the SC that's connected to the bottom of the air intake, I think it feeds fresh air to the PCV system does it not?

The PCV I tested is the actual valve that fits into the passenger valve cover.
 
There is one that passes in front of the SC that's connected to the bottom of the air intake, I think it feeds fresh air to the PCV system does it not?

The PCV I tested is the actual valve that fits into the passenger valve cover.

Where is the other end of that hose? I bet it's before the supercharger, so it'd be in a vacuum at all times.

After all, that's where it gets its vacuum from.

Besides, even if it was on the pressure side, the PCV valve IS a valve, and will cut off pressure to the crankcase from the supercharger.

Lemme check the service manual ...

Funny, PCV plumbing's not shown in the service manual nor the EVTM .

Check the other end of the PCV hose, and see where it is first.

If it's before the super charger, then it's always in vacuum, no need to adjust for boost.

If after, it'll shut off - but you may need to put the oil catch system up to keep oil from blowing back into the intake.

RwP
 
Oil out the dipstick is classic for too much timing. You are probably detonating the motor a little and should back off the timing a notch.
 
"Notch" was a figurative term. You'll need to work through a chip or QH to reduce timing. Although if you don't have any tuning then you are probably running lean too which will make the motor more likely to detonate even if timing is not too high. Black smoke can be generated from detonation so don't just assume that since you see smoke it must be rich. You need a WB02.

Stock timing is 26 deg which is way too much for 18psi. However, stock timing minus full knock retard (assuming you have a functional knock sensor) would put you at 18 deg which is actually not too bad for 18psi. But if the motor has leaned out (extremely likely unless you have 60lb injectors) then even 18 deg would be too much. Well, 18 deg might be what the motor wants but it will never run detonation free if it is lean at 18psi.

Engine damage may well not have occurred yet, but it will if you keep it up. The reason that the oil comes out the top of the dipstick is two fold. First, pressure is building up in the crank case. If you have not plugged the valve covers (you should have a working PCV connected to the inlet plenum and a vent on the driver's side either free to atmosphere or connected to the inlet tube), then if pressure is still building in the crank case then this means that the rings are not sealing. If the rings are sealing under normal conditions but not under boost, that means detonation. Detonation "rattles" the rings and causes them to unseat off the cylinder walls and allow combustion gases to pass by. During this process the ring lands take a severe beating and eventually they will either crack or become worn down to where they don't properly support the rings. In either case you will experience irreparable damage to the pistons (eventually). Then when the gases escape and the whole detonation dynamic occurs, that process introduces even more oil into the air circulating in the crank case than normal which when combined with the pressure, makes an even bigger mess than normal. If you don't have a PCV system catch can, then this oil is also getting recirculated via the PCV through your blower and IC system back into the engine to get burned. It won't make the motor smoke blue, but it will very significantly lower the octane rating of your fuel and you know what that means - even more detonation.

If the rings lands have been damaged, it is possible to have the motor pass a compression test yet still fail to seal the rings under boost. This is another reason why it is important to take this problem seriously in the beginning. Unfortunately often times by the time people notice the problem, it's too late. Hopefully that is not the case with you.
 
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