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95_XR7
07-05-2011, 10:59 PM
Figured I'd post this to document my installation of parts over my summer block leave. Until 14 July.

Things That Need Done:
Oil Change
Figure out why spoiler brakelight doesn't work


Parts currently on hand to install:
Anniv. Cobra 13in Calipers
Thump Racing Billet Pulleys
Kenny Brown LECB's
Azz Kicker Cars RSTB
Mark VIII Alum. Control Arms
Dynotech 3.5in Alum. Driveshaft
Aeromotive A1000-6 Adj Fuel Pressure Regulator
Siemens 60lbs Injectors
AMW Oil Separator
Infinity Kappa 60.9CS
Innovate Motorsports LC-1
8in IC Fan
JVC Arsenal KD960


Parts On Order From Dalke:
Moates QH
Aeromotive Stealth 340lph Fuel Pump

95_XR7
07-06-2011, 12:21 PM
Well,
small update today since I've been doing some of my college homework and stuff for my promotion this month.

Due to me misplacing the bung for the LC1, I had to order a new one. $16 dollars later.

Also received an email from Mr. Dalke with my registration code and tune file. I was looking through it in BE lastnight and wow....there's a ton of stuff. I ALREADY feel overwhelmed.

-Corey

95_XR7
07-06-2011, 11:53 PM
Headed over to Autozone today to pick up a few things. Picked up some 3M Adhesive for the weatherstripping on the driver door. Also picked up some Autolite XP103 spark plugs to install sometime this week. Couldn't believe the price difference between them and the Copper Core 103's. It's ridiculous.

-Corey

95_XR7
07-07-2011, 10:42 PM
Unfortunately, I'm nowhere near all of my tools. So I can't really install as much as I want. I figured out where I'm gonna install the Aeromotive FPR. It'll be installed on the driver side between the shock tower and firewall - same area as Ryan Z. and David N.

Installed the AMW Oil Separator. It's mounted on on the passenger side right up against the MP Cold Air Box. Unfortunately, there's no room anywhere else since I still have A/C. The downside is I have to disconnect the hoses to be able to drain it, but it's fine.

I also installed the Azzkicker Cars Rear Shock Tower Brace. Only have four of the six bolts installed because I couldn't quite fit the drill bit in there. I'll work on that tomorrow. The carpet does need worked on a little bit.
Once the QH gets here, I'll be installed the fuel pump, regulator, injectors and new fuel filter.

Tomorrow after I get an oil change, I'm gonna try to find a decent welder to install the LECB's and 02 Bung for the LC-1.

-Corey

Mike8675309
07-08-2011, 10:33 AM
looks like a fun project. Here is where i put my oil separator as I have AC as well. I can get to the valve from below to drain.

You could do something similar with a piece of heavy gauge steel plate bent so it sits on the ledge that a wiring harness runs on, and screw it down there.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/tcw_fort/TBIRD/2010-06-13114420.jpg

kenewagner
07-08-2011, 10:47 AM
Once the QH gets here, I'll be installed the fuel pump, regulator, injectors and new fuel filter.


-Corey


Are you upgrading fuel lines as well? Will the stock fuel line be restrictive to the new pump?

Ken

Kurt K
07-08-2011, 12:22 PM
Installed the AMW Oil Separator. It's mounted on on the passenger side right up against the MP Cold Air Box. Unfortunately, there's no room anywhere else since I still have A/C. The downside is I have to disconnect the hoses to be able to drain it, but it's fine.

-Corey

Mine is located in the same place. I will use a pump to drain the unit and therefore will only have to disconnect one hose.

I don't think I could have mounted mine where Mike did because my braided stainless steel transmission lines would be in the way. Otherwise, I do like that location.

95_XR7
07-08-2011, 01:55 PM
Mike, I had thought about mounting it like yours, but without a floor jack at the moment it's a bit difficult. Plus, the location it's in at the moment adds a bit more 'bling' for the car shows. Once the engine gets pulled (whenever I get promoted and get the money to pay DD) I'll probably go back and change a few things.

Ken,
I wouldn't be surprised if it's a slight restriction to the fuel pump. However, the car sees maybe 500-600 miles a year so I'm not all that worried about it. Once the motor does get replaced I WILL be running braided AN lines from the tank to the motor. It'll be the same time as I replace the trac-lok with a eaton true-trac.


Mine is located in the same place. I will use a pump to drain the unit and therefore will only have to disconnect one hose.

I don't think I could have mounted mine where Mike did because my braided stainless steel transmission lines would be in the way. Otherwise, I do like that location.

My thoughts exactly. I have one of those hand pumps somewhere I was gonna use.

-Corey

95_XR7
07-09-2011, 01:40 AM
Didn't get much at all done today. Finished the RSTB, and was able to get the oil changed. Ford mechanics laughed at me when I asked them to change the spark plugs.

So, what do yoyu guys think I should order next? I was thinking about removing the Alum. Jackshaft pulley and replacing it with a 5%. Total OD would be 8% then.

Or maybe start ordering the parts to redo the exhaust?

Opinions?

-Corey

Mike8675309
07-09-2011, 08:39 AM
how are the shocks? Bushings? motor mounts? stuff that will nag you if it fails one month after you hit the road.

If the exhaust is still stock, I'd move that up on the priority list, just to get rid of the stock resonator and the bad down tube on the drivers side for that cat. If that's already been done, then there isn't much to do unless you want to make some serious power.

95_XR7
07-09-2011, 10:12 AM
how are the shocks? Bushings? motor mounts? stuff that will nag you if it fails one month after you hit the road.

If the exhaust is still stock, I'd move that up on the priority list, just to get rid of the stock resonator and the bad down tube on the drivers side for that cat. If that's already been done, then there isn't much to do unless you want to make some serious power.

Shocks are still stock ARC with Eibach lowering springs. Rides decent, a little on the rough side. Bushings are good. Motor mounts are solid units that still look like they're intact. I was waiting to decide which shocks to go with, and then I'll be doing those, endlinks, Mark VIII LCA's, etc so I only have to do the alignment once.

The exhaust is downtubes, hi flow cats, 2 1/2" - 3" - 2 1/2" with Magnaflow resonator and Magnaflow mufflers. Unfortunately theres a little bit of drone.
Which is why I was thinking exhaust. Get the true duals from the mandrel exhaust company, order a new resonator, and I already have stainless Borla ProXS mufflers sitting around somewhere.

-Corey

Mike8675309
07-09-2011, 11:32 AM
the exhaust system sounds just fine. if you are concerned with drone, I'd find an exhaust shop with some smart guys working there and just spend some cash refining your system to get rid of the drone. I don't know that true dual exhaust is any guarantee of loosing the drone and you aren't leaving any power on the table with what you have. Other than the cats, that's the exact same setup as on my 93. You might even be a little big on the tube sizes. 3" for the transition is fine, but 2.25" would be fine on the front section to keep velocity up. The 2.5 on the outlet is fine since there will be some expansion of gasses as it moves through the 3" center to the outlet.

I'd start with playing with angles to get the exhaust tips pointing back rather than turned down. Next, ensure all exhaust anchors are rubber isolated. Next, make sure the angles on the down tubes are not severe, try to smooth them out. Drivers side down tube bend can be pretty sharp if the exhaust shop was in a hurry when they made it.

95_XR7
07-09-2011, 02:17 PM
the exhaust system sounds just fine. if you are concerned with drone, I'd find an exhaust shop with some smart guys working there and just spend some cash refining your system to get rid of the drone. I don't know that true dual exhaust is any guarantee of loosing the drone and you aren't leaving any power on the table with what you have. Other than the cats, that's the exact same setup as on my 93. You might even be a little big on the tube sizes. 3" for the transition is fine, but 2.25" would be fine on the front section to keep velocity up. The 2.5 on the outlet is fine since there will be some expansion of gasses as it moves through the 3" center to the outlet.

I'd start with playing with angles to get the exhaust tips pointing back rather than turned down. Next, ensure all exhaust anchors are rubber isolated. Next, make sure the angles on the down tubes are not severe, try to smooth them out. Drivers side down tube bend can be pretty sharp if the exhaust shop was in a hurry when they made it.

Good points mentioned above Mike. I was only thinking about redoing it because it's in aluminized steel. Granted, it doesn't get driven much anyways. and NEVER in the rain or snow.

Anyways, do you think the extra 5% from the JS should be fine?

EDIT: QH and Fuel pump were just dropped off. Time to do some work. =]

-Corey

Mike8675309
07-09-2011, 04:06 PM
Perhaps you can talk with Dave as he has a lot more experience with what advantage a pulley may have. I think it depends on the rpm range you are looking for. If you're gonna be driving it on the street and racing 1/8th mile at most, then maybe the extra overdrive makes sense. With a non-mpx m90, you may see a net increase in useable RPM with the less overdrive. But that's only important on a 1/4mile track.

95_XR7
07-11-2011, 09:27 PM
Well, as it turns out the spoiler brake light is burnt out. :rolleyes:
Unfortunately, the brand new light I installed on my '94's spoiler isn't the correct one. I've removed all/most of the engine components to change out all of the fuel components. Also removed all of the tensioners to modify them to install the Thump Racing Pulleys.

Tomorrow night/Wednesday I'm gonna try to get a 1/8NPT elbow so I can attach my Nordskog fuel gauge sender directly to the Aeromotive FPR.

Once all of the fuel components are installed, I can put in the QH and start toying with that. Hopefully, I can actually get it tuned pretty good before leaving to head back to Ft. Carson.

-Corey

BirdofPrey97
07-12-2011, 11:20 AM
I have never heard of the Thump Racing Pulleys. Could you share some more info on them?

95_XR7
07-13-2011, 12:25 AM
I have never heard of the Thump Racing Pulleys. Could you share some more info on them?

There's a group buy on them within the forums here. I purchased them long before that. The only downside is they require you to modify the tensioners themselves.

-Corey

95_XR7
07-14-2011, 12:49 AM
There's a group buy on them within the forums here. I purchased them long before that. The only downside is they require you to modify the tensioners themselves.

-Corey


Ill try to get some pictures of the Thump Racing Pulleys put up tomorrow. The only downside is the groove the snap ring fits into to retain the bearing is a little thin. Personally, I don't believe it'll prove to be an issue, however, I just noticed.

Stripped the motor down today. 60lbs injectors are installed, along with the remote mount FPR. It's mounted where I previously mentioned. It was done so by making a new bracket out of some scrap metal laying around. Unfortunately, while I was running the lines to the fuel rail, I crushed a $15 Fragola 90* connector. :rolleyes:

Luckily, the fitting is still decent enough to use. I'll end up replacing it once the car is up and running.

QH is also installed on the PCM. I really didn't want to cut a hole to run the USB cable through, so I ran it back out the J3 port. It was a snug fit with the QH sitting in there but I think it'll be fine. I just made sure to secure it with plenty of electrical tape.

Tomorrow, I'm gonna pressurize the fuel system and verify there are no leaks. Once that's done I'll re-install everything engine wise. If I run into no issues setting fuel pressure/leaks/drivability I'll pull the car back into the garage and begin the DS and FP install. Fun fun. :rolleyes:

Due to the Army ending my leave early, and making me head back to Ft. Carson I won't get the chance to install a few parts. Parts with an asterisk are possible.


Anniv. Cobra 13in Calipers
Kenny Brown LECB's *
Infinity Kappa 60.9CS
Innovate Motorsports LC-1 *
JVC Arsenal KD960


-Corey

95_XR7
07-15-2011, 08:13 AM
Pressurized the system and was good. Started the car and it idled for 15 seconds or so and then died. Somehow, I managed to roll one of the O-rings on CYl #3's Injector. :rolleyes:
Went through and fixed that. And a couple other things I noticed. Well, more bad news. At first I thought the gauge was broke, but my fuel pressure spikes to 35psi when I turn on the key and quickly goes to 8-10lbs. Since I've changed the FPR and Injectors I'm betting the issue is the fuel pump.
I remember finding it strange when I went to bleed the pressure using the Shrader Valve that NOTHING was there.
Let's hope the Aermotive 340LPH is easy to put in.

-Corey

95_XR7
08-14-2011, 01:05 AM
Update on all of that now that I'm back out in Colorado.
Installed the 340LPH which was pretty easy. The old fuel pump was toast. The connector was burnt and the actual housing itself had a crack in it, which I don't understand. :eek:

Put everything back together and the car still had an issue running. Finally got it to idle good but ran into yet ANOTHER issue when trying to drive the car. It kept kicking ABS on for no reason. Well as it turns out, the QH/BE setting(I can't remember the value, but it's the one that resets stored parameters in the computer.) was set to reset rather than normal. Didn't figure that out until I was already on my way back to Colorado so I had to call my brother and have him edit the tune via laptop.

Once that was taken care of, the car was taken to my brother in law's to get the Kenny Brown LECB's welded on and the tires rotated.

Car ran perfectly for the nice little 250 mile trip it went on after that.

This past weekend, it was taken to a car show and one 1st place - Modified.

--Corey