New Engine Options

Ben999_

Registered User
I was wondering if anyone here has any experience with remanufactured SC engines? The engine in my 93 has seized completely, not worth trying to fix as far as I'm concerned (around 200k or more on it). I have been looking at remanufactured engines and I'm thinking that may be the way to go. However, a friend of mine got a reman Jasper engine for his SC and broke the crankshaft on 2 of them inside the warranty period of 3 years, and the last one a month after the warranty expired. Presumably they are not using the forged SC crankshaft in those motors, which really worries me. Has anyone else heard of this happening in a reman? I could get a used motor with somewhat higher mileage for a lot cheaper, but I think I'd like something that will be worth the labor cost of installing. I could go the route of getting it rebuilt, but that would just take too much time and since this is my daily driver, I need it running asap. Has anyone heard anything about the reman that Supercoupe Performance sells? I would think that coming from there, that problem would have surfaced by now and it's a non-issue.
 
I have used S&S engines a couple of times now and have had no problems . I have a short block in my SC from them and a long block in my truck. They use state of the art machines and you get a 70,000 7 year warranty. I havent found any other rebuilder that even comes close to that kind of warranty. Hope that helps you out.
 
I bet that the cranks that broke were turned down .010. I'd avoid a motor with a turned down crank. Even Ford remaned engines can have turned down cranks in them, though.
 
My crank is turned .010" under.:) Knock on wood no problems here. Its been beat on pretty well too.
 
My $.02, I think I'd rather have a .10 under crank that's seasoned, checked (for straightness), and magnafluxed than an unknown new crank.
 
I bet that the cranks that broke were turned down .010. I'd avoid a motor with a turned down crank. Even Ford remaned engines can have turned down cranks in them, though.

The most important thing is to get the fillets right. If the crank is ground without the proper fillets at the end of the bearing surfaces, that will make it much more prone to cracking. If the fillets are done right, then the reduction in thickness isn't such a big deal.
 
i bought my first 2 supercoupes off a member here from jersey, the black one had a reman engine and the red one has an s&s reman, no problems with the red one other than popping a head gasket because i overheated it like a dummy, but the black car split the crank back in january of 2009. I was able to move the balancer in and out of the engine by about 2 inches :eek:

first i've heard of this but if i had to guess it would seem as though theres a high probability that it was a foreign rebuild
 
It sounds like S&S will be the way to go for me. I wanted to get Tim Groth's long block but he is apparently MIA and I gotta pull the trigger on something real soon. The S&S 7 year warranty is bs though. Its really only a one year with a bunch of stipulations and like almost a half warranty after that from what I gathered. I just want my sc back on the road though.
 
I'm wondering if the machining goes too deep into the nitriding and that along with improper radiusing causes the breakage. My new motor will have a crank that's been hard chromed back to original specs with a Rockwell 63 hardness rating. I was concerned about it but did some research and found out that almost all the Top Fuel and Funny Car teams run cranks that have been damaged and hard chrome repaired. If those cranks can handle 8000 hp then mine should handle 400-500. I talked to a company in Sou. CA that did all of John Force's work and charges $385 for the 1st and $85 for each additional journal repaired.
 
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