ABS Pain!

S_Mazza

Registered User
Hello,

The other day, on my way to work, my Thunderbird gave me an unpleasant surprise ... No brake assist! Fortunately, it happened while stopped at a light. So I made it to work and back with no crashes. The ABS and brake lights came on a little while before the assist gave out ... Now I know to STOP when that happens. :rolleyes: I thought I would bend the firewall from pushing the pedal so hard. I eventually learned to stop more easily with a combination of firm, early pedal application, the handbrake, appropriate shifts into 3rd or neutral, and a LOT of planning ahead. :p

Anyway, I replaced the relay with no success. And then I found the troubleshooting guide on the 35th Anniversary site (www.35thatr.og). As it suggests, I checked for power at the harness plug that leads to the motor. I have two pins with 12V+ and two pins with ground. Just as I should. Yet the motor does not run.

If I understand this correctly, the motor must be stuck or burnt up. Do you SC sages agree with that?

Now, my next dilemma is how to get the ABS unit out of there. From what I see, the fluid reservoir is held in place by a roll pin on the side and a Torx screw underneath. I guess I remove those, then pull the reservoir up, then cut the hose leading to the pump. (Assuming it is time for a replacement anyway.) Then I suppose I engage in a frenzy of flare nut wrenching, to get all the various lines disconnected. Then there are 4 nuts or bolts under the dash. Is there anything I am missing? Are there any tricks to getting at the fasteners under the dash?

Then, once I have the unit out, does the motor just bolt on and off? And do I need new seals for it? Where can I get them?

I guess I will replace the pressure switch while I have it out. And I already mentioned the hose. Is there anything else that should receive maintenance while I have the unit out? (It seems to me like the ABS unit is more or less a black box, beyond the accumulator, pressure switch, and pump.)

THANKS in advance!
 
Same problem here. Have power to the pump but pump does not seem to be running. IMO from everything I have read you might as well just send it in and have it rebuilt. By the time you spend $500 on the mototr and another $140 on an accumulator you have what SCP or Spinning wheels is charging for the rebuild. If motor is bad accumulator can't be far behind. Guess what tomorrow's evening plans are for me!
 
pull the intercooler tubes (if stock). That'll give you good access. Remove all the brake lines attached to the master. They could be very hard to remove.

Then disconnect the brake lever under the dash, and unbolt the 4 bolts holding the whole assembly to the fire wall. Disconnect the various harness connections and lift the whole thing out.

No roll pins to pop. You can check the motor once you have it out. I had one motor that would work once, when cold, but once it heated up failed.
 
There are a bunch of ways to remove the pump assembly....

Some are more labor intensive than others....:rolleyes:

I've found it easier to remove the entire master cylinder to service the pump motor....

No need to remove the IC tubes, but removing the front seat makes it easier to get to the 4 bolts up on the firewall....:p

Be very careful removing the brake lines as they tend to seize up on the inside of the fittings and will twist the lines....:mad:

Unplug the three wire connections, remove the ground wire, and lift the unit out of the engine bay....

The pump motor is held in place by two allen head bolts....

There is a small 5 mm seal on the pump end of the motor....

I have a pump motor that has just been re-built and is ready to ship...
 
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Thank you all for the help.

I think I am going to remove the entire unit, as I really don't want to mess around with awkward angles right now.

Are there any suggestions on how to remove the fittings without twisting the lines? Maybe some PB Blaster or something? The lines on my car don't show any rust - the whole MC area is pretty clean. I can bend a new line or two if I have to ... but I would rather not have to!

Big E, can you PM me a price for the motor and details of what was done in the rebuild? My zip is 19382.
 
PB Blaster.

Then hold the proportioning valve with a pair of pliers or a flare nut wrench.

THEN use ViseGrips (tm) on the other to break it free, then a flare nut wrench to remove it. Or a regular open end wrench.

Be SURE to keep an eye open, if the line starts twisting, EASE UP and WAIT after you hose it down some more with PB Blaster.

I put a touch of anti-seize in mine, even when putting it on the new non-ABS master cylinder. Be POSITIVE you don't get it IN the line, just on the threads of the ferrule.

RwP
 
one of the fittings on mine twisted off even after soaking with a wet pb-blaster rag for 2 days. When I got it apart, I found the problem. Moisture must have gotten in behind the nut and a difference in materials fused the bubble flare to the nut through oxidation. Heat would work with something like that but I didn't want to risk damaging the valve body.
 
Yeah, possibly heat. My absolute favorite penetrating oil is Kroil, if you can find it.

Also, for the 4 nuts near the brake pedal, I found a stubby 3/8 ratchet and a deep socket works great. I don't remove the seat but I'm fairly short.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I guess I will have to see how it goes. Putting some anti-sieze on the threads, and between the line and the tube nut, is a really good idea that I did not think of. I will definitely do that upon assembly, regardless of how I end up removing the lines.

I had the seat out recently, so I know the fasteners will come out smoothly. But I will try the stubby ratchet first. (What a great tool, by the way!)
 
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