PDA

View Full Version : first round of mods



boogeyman
10-10-2011, 11:33 PM
im gathering parts for my car i finally got it running correctly so i can start my mods im not looking for a quided missle but something pretty peppy and car fend off mustangs and ricers heres my plan so far please tell me if im missing anything
aeromotive 340 intank pump
2-1/2 exhaust manifolds back magnaflow 2in 2 out into 2-1/2 magnaflow mufflers
94-95 blower and intake plenum
75mm throttle body
3 in cold air kit
mp tensioner springs
5% s/c pulley
chip from dave
i/c fan or fans
i figure this should be good for 260 or so hp

would i benefit from more boost ?
would it be worth using my old meth kit from my diesel truck on this thing to help keep intake temps down ??

DriftingThunder
10-10-2011, 11:59 PM
Without injectors, I'd just stay at 5% OD. I'd get injectors. Very yes on the meth kit! Try to get a raised blower top, new or used. Glue yourself to the used parts sales on here and try to pick-up a 73-76mm C&L MAF or some other good MAF (the stock one is kinda crappy), people sell MAFs on here all the time lately it seems. Port those stock manifolds!

I personally don't like intercooler fans, but I am the minority I believe.

boogeyman
10-11-2011, 12:06 AM
lol i totally for got to add the maf and injectors to my list when i posted it lol i have a 76mm maf from my old stang with a full set of cal tubes and some 42lb injectors im going to have the exhaust shop install the bung for my innovative wideband when they do the exhaust

RalphP
10-11-2011, 12:35 AM
I don't see getting the suspension and brakes up to snuff on that list.

I'd do THAT first.

Unless you like making a tired old lady a killer ... :p

Such as upgrading to PBRs or later Sport brakes, so you can stop at the end of the 1/4 mile.

Replacing the old, tired (and possibly missing!) rubber on the rear (spindle bushings - suggest either Energy Suspension's poly or, much better, DLF's Delrins; upper control arm bushings, Moog or ACDelco; lower control arm bushings for stock LCAs, Moog or ACDelco; if using Mark VIII LCAs, then DLF's; and new toe link compensators, Moog or ACDelco.) Add to that the tired, old rubber on the front (lower control arms from Moog or TRW, uppers from Moog or TRW, sway bar bushings from Energy Suspension, sway bar end links from Moog or Ford, strut rod to frame bushings from Ford, strut rod to LCA bushings from Ford or Moog). Don't forget the diff bushings (front poly to replace the factory rubber), the trans cross member (poly or delrin), the transmission mount, the motor mounts. It's embarrasing when you manage to flip the motor through the hood (yah, I know, the tangs keep it from happening. Don't confuse the image with the reality :rolleyes: )

All that SHOULD be done before you start doing the motor, or you'll just manage to make a set of wheels that'll let you try to climb a tree or power pole. Rear end first. At speed.

My two cents worth.

RwP

mellbutler
10-11-2011, 06:22 AM
fuel pump seems way overkill, esp with only 42lb injectors

rzimmerl
10-11-2011, 07:50 AM
With that stock intercooler your quickly going to heat soak it and allow timing to be pulled. I would highly suggest picking up a Ken Wagner double IC with a puller fan attached to it. Alky kit would definately help with the intake temps, but also involves more tuning. I would leave off the 5% pulley and run the stock pulley until you get either.

boogeyman
10-11-2011, 09:40 AM
yea i know the fuel pump is large but i have 2 sitting here brand new in the boxes.
are my hp figures fairly close ?

everything besides the master and prop valve and steel lines is brand new on the brakes so im going to wait a little bit to start changing that stuff out since the car stops extremly well it does have slotted rotors all the way around and good pads on it

DrFishbone
10-11-2011, 12:36 PM
are my hp figures fairly close ?

I'm not a pro at recipes, but I would think you might end up around 210-220 rwhp with the setup you listed.

Ported Heads, a moderate cam, and an MP inlet would help you get in the 250-300 rwhp range

David Neibert
10-11-2011, 01:12 PM
I don't see getting the suspension and brakes up to snuff on that list.

I'd do THAT first.

Unless you like making a tired old lady a killer ... :p

Such as upgrading to PBRs or later Sport brakes, so you can stop at the end of the 1/4 mile.

Replacing the old, tired (and possibly missing!) rubber on the rear (spindle bushings - suggest either Energy Suspension's poly or, much better, DLF's Delrins; upper control arm bushings, Moog or ACDelco; lower control arm bushings for stock LCAs, Moog or ACDelco; if using Mark VIII LCAs, then DLF's; and new toe link compensators, Moog or ACDelco.) Add to that the tired, old rubber on the front (lower control arms from Moog or TRW, uppers from Moog or TRW, sway bar bushings from Energy Suspension, sway bar end links from Moog or Ford, strut rod to frame bushings from Ford, strut rod to LCA bushings from Ford or Moog). Don't forget the diff bushings (front poly to replace the factory rubber), the trans cross member (poly or delrin), the transmission mount, the motor mounts. It's embarrasing when you manage to flip the motor through the hood (yah, I know, the tangs keep it from happening. Don't confuse the image with the reality :rolleyes: )

All that SHOULD be done before you start doing the motor, or you'll just manage to make a set of wheels that'll let you try to climb a tree or power pole. Rear end first. At speed.

My two cents worth.

RwP

I don't know about all that stuff...Both my SCs are still running on 90% what bushings and suspension it came with from the factory. Brakes wern't upgraded until after both cars were running 10s, and that was more for cosmetic reasons than a need for better braking.

David

bigpoppa822
10-11-2011, 03:48 PM
I'm going to say if you're looking for 260hp with those mods you'll be disappointed. I made less power with more mods than what you have listed. If you want to hit your goal add an MP inlet plenum, an intercooler upgrade, and a good camshaft around .500 lift. (.520 is the max for stock valvetrain.) Some porting would definitely be beneficial as well.

XxSlowpokexX
10-11-2011, 09:07 PM
Here is my take


2-1/2 exhaust manifolds back magnaflow 2in 2 out into 2-1/2 magnaflow mufflers (go for it)


94-95 blower and intake plenum..Id go for an S port to the blower while its off. IF you get an MP SC inlet go for an 85mmTB IF not then a 75 would be fine

3 in cold air kit with 75MM tb, 3.5 with 85mmTB

mp tensioner springs are a great IDEA


Spinning wheels had a nice 8% pulley Id go for instead of the 5%,,If going 5%get a 5% jackshaft pulley

90MM lightning MAF with 3.5 intake, 76mm C&L for 3"


IC fan..May want to lok into a kenny wagner double IC..Yes a fan

42lb injectors if you dont plan on doing heads or a cam for now

Meth kit..YES DEFINITELY GREAT IDEA

CHip from Dave......Yes

This is a great combo for bolt ons. Allot of power is left on the table with out heads or cam. with ported stock heads and a 520 lift cam you can expect over 300rwhp.

I think with a good tune and meth you can definitely hit 260 with the above

My advice however...Dont set HP goals..Set the how much do I want to spend goal..An dconsider heads and cam...If so 60lb injectors

rlong
10-11-2011, 09:29 PM
i would probably go with the 94 blower and intake and the chip from dave ,
exhaust and bigger throttle body isnt going to help until you port the exhaust ports in the heads . that is the big restrictor in these motors at least in my experience

hope this helps
ralph

RalphP
10-11-2011, 09:45 PM
I don't know about all that stuff...Both my SCs are still running on 90% what bushings and suspension it came with from the factory. Brakes wern't upgraded until after both cars were running 10s, and that was more for cosmetic reasons than a need for better braking.

David

*ponders*

Y'know, it may be a regional thing - bushings are crap on almost all boneyard cars *EDIT* around here *ENDEDIT*, and they were on Ruby Jean when I bought her. However, our idea of "rust bucket" is most folks ideas of "rust free" :D

Still - BEFORE I shoved power to the wheels, I'd make sure the wheels not only could hook up, but that they'd stay attached to the car.

(I stand by my recommendation to check the suspension and rebuild if there's ANY question before modding the motor.)

RwP

boogeyman
10-11-2011, 10:24 PM
Here is my take


2-1/2 exhaust manifolds back magnaflow 2in 2 out into 2-1/2 magnaflow mufflers (go for it)


94-95 blower and intake plenum..Id go for an S port to the blower while its off. IF you get an MP SC inlet go for an 85mmTB IF not then a 75 would be fine

3 in cold air kit with 75MM tb, 3.5 with 85mmTB

mp tensioner springs are a great IDEA


Spinning wheels had a nice 8% pulley Id go for instead of the 5%,,If going 5%get a 5% jackshaft pulley

90MM lightning MAF with 3.5 intake, 76mm C&L for 3"


IC fan..May want to lok into a kenny wagner double IC..Yes a fan

42lb injectors if you dont plan on doing heads or a cam for now

Meth kit..YES DEFINITELY GREAT IDEA

CHip from Dave......Yes

This is a great combo for bolt ons. Allot of power is left on the table with out heads or cam. with ported stock heads and a 520 lift cam you can expect over 300rwhp.

I think with a good tune and meth you can definitely hit 260 with the above

My advice however...Dont set HP goals..Set the how much do I want to spend goal..An dconsider heads and cam...If so 60lb injectors

im not setting hp goals this is just wjat i figured was fairly resonable with the mods i had planned on figuring that my motor is brand new (less than 500miles) if i make 220 and it feels strong then im a happy camper for a while till the urge comes to go faster

im looking very hard at a cam springs and rockers for it. id imagine the cam setup even on a stock engine is very helpful at letting it breath. i have a set of stock manifolds would it be worth it to have the extrude hone ported ???

ill be very honest here i like to street race and this car seems like a great car to play around with and even with some mods still be a great car to drive daily and still lay the perverbial smack down when needed

XxSlowpokexX
10-11-2011, 11:44 PM
Well like I said a 520 lift cam, ported heads stock size valves with proper springs will do ya good. Making more than the low 300RWHP range requires allot more cash.....Or Nitrous...Want to see what a nicely setup nitrous car car do..Check out nicklemans car on here. It kicks butt

Exhaust manifolds. You can port the lip out of the exit. Extrude hone be a waste of money..Also if you go heads. Get ARP head studs for a 2.8 liter chevy v6..A MUST

boogeyman
10-12-2011, 04:26 PM
Do you think that a small ~~~~ of nitrous would be beneficial say like 35-50 HP In my application it would be a wet kit or would I need to wait until I had head studs in it first?

boogeyman
10-12-2011, 04:29 PM
The car had o ringed heads on it already and arp bolts. The motor was built to handle high boost with forged pistons and scat rods. And a stock crank. but. The previous owner sold the car to me before any mods were done to it. I have all the receipts

XxSlowpokexX
10-12-2011, 04:35 PM
If you have ARP bolts and O rings Id leave it alone...But he did that work with stock non ported heads and stock cam?

Nitrous wet kit would be ideal

boogeyman
10-12-2011, 07:28 PM
Yes the guy I got it from was getting ready to start building the car I'm not sure. If the heads are ported or not it was bought as a longblock from the guyin Canada morana who does all the v6 stuff so if I had to guess is day its probably the full stage 1 engine with basic ported heads the car does seem very strong now that I fixed the cam sync issue

DrFishbone
10-13-2011, 08:00 AM
(I stand by my recommendation to check the suspension and rebuild if there's ANY question before modding the motor.)

RwP

I'd recommend checking the brakes/suspension and rebuild/repair before DRIVING the car. ;)

boogeyman
10-13-2011, 12:57 PM
as i said in my previous posts the brakes are new new slotted rotors, pads caliprs stop flex hoses . the abs unit works perfectly i have been thru the bushings and everything is good and the car drives tight and squeek/rattle/clunk free

boogeyman
10-13-2011, 03:27 PM
it is also my understanding that the bypass valve should be open when idling and at cruise and close to produce boost when accelerating now my boost is somewhat slow coming on or atleast it dont shoot to 10-11 psi right away if i were to route the vac line from it right behind the thottle body would i get faster response to the bypass valve creating boost sooner ?? my vac line now runs over to the tree that goes to wipers under the drivers side cowl panel

DrFishbone
10-13-2011, 03:50 PM
it is also my understanding that the bypass valve should be open when idling and at cruise and close to produce boost when accelerating now my boost is somewhat slow coming on or atleast it dont shoot to 10-11 psi right away if i were to route the vac line from it right behind the thottle body would i get faster response to the bypass valve creating boost sooner ?? my vac line now runs over to the tree that goes to wipers under the drivers side cowl panel

The boost will climb a bit as the RPM's increase, then level off past...mmm..3000 maybe?

I don't think re-tubing the bypass would be a good idea. If it made any difference, it would not enhance performance. I think I remember reading a Ford document that even mentioned to not bother the bypass vacuum line...

boogeyman
10-13-2011, 05:13 PM
See I'm not getting full boost till about 2200 or so it shoots up to about 8 then slowly moves up to 10-11 after that

RalphP
10-13-2011, 09:57 PM
as i said in my previous posts the brakes are new new slotted rotors, pads caliprs stop flex hoses . the abs unit works perfectly i have been thru the bushings and everything is good and the car drives tight and squeek/rattle/clunk free

Now, see, you didn't mention that at first.

I've seen several folks over on TCCoA that want to take a 4.6 mod motor with 200+Kmiles, toss a Vortech or Paxton on it, and "get 5 kajillion rear wheel horse powers for $47.88" (to coin a phrase), with a car that has one back tire at a negative camber of about 15 degrees, no rubber on the front end, sounds like an old tired coil spring bed at The Best Little Whore House In Texas on Senior Discount Day, and slips between gears due to how shot the 4R70W is ...

OTOH, you've taken care of the important stuff to make it safe. NOW we put the GoFast goat hormones and Tim Allen Moar Powah! kits on it! :D:D

RwP

boogeyman
10-13-2011, 10:08 PM
yea im very thorough with my cars i make sure things are right before i stard having fun with them lol
hell my racecar had a parachute before it went 10`s just because i figred it was good to have a backup plan

91BLOWNBIRD
10-13-2011, 11:10 PM
fuel pump seems way overkill, esp with only 42lb injectors

you can never really have too big a pump

91BLOWNBIRD
10-13-2011, 11:11 PM
With that stock intercooler your quickly going to heat soak it and allow timing to be pulled. I would highly suggest picking up a Ken Wagner double IC with a puller fan attached to it. Alky kit would definately help with the intake temps, but also involves more tuning. I would leave off the 5% pulley and run the stock pulley until you get either.

I second the DIC!

boogeyman
10-13-2011, 11:41 PM
you can never really have too big a pump

and it is possible the have too much pump for the regulator to handle i had dual areomotive 340`s on my turbo coupe running e-85 and had to use the chip to pull fuel cuz it sould not go below 45psi at idle with a aeromotive regulator

im sure 1 will be just fine tho on this application

DrFishbone
10-14-2011, 07:38 AM
See I'm not getting full boost till about 2200 or so it shoots up to about 8 then slowly moves up to 10-11 after that

That sounds normal.

boogeyman
10-14-2011, 11:52 AM
ok then i guess its game on for mods then

XxSlowpokexX
10-14-2011, 12:19 PM
That sounds normal.

WHats scary is that you dont know what you may have.

Chances are if he got a shortblock fromk Morana and it has ARP head studs there may just be cam and head work already done...Especially if oringed


Now that brigs to question...Was the blower or other things changed out as well.

Hav ea photo of the motor?

All that said Id concentrate for now on upgrading boltons that would support an already done motor..Then if not satisfied look into the heads for porting or additional porting an da larger cam

Hav eyou looked under at the exhaust yet?

boogeyman
10-14-2011, 06:20 PM
Everything on the cat was stone cold stock when I got it. I had the exhaust done today and am amazed at the difference of how it runs I know for a fact from the receipts that the heads have a bowl blend and port match done with stock cam but springs have been upgrade and 1,piece pushrods the blower is stock 90 unit