What exhaust bolts do you use?

R

r1dd1ck913

Registered User
Like it says what bolts are you using to bolt you exhaust to the heads. I figure since I'm doing head gaskets I might as well get rid of them ugly rusty things. Pics would be nice also. Thanks
 
Not sure what condition your bolts are in. But the stock ones are of pretty good quality and have a locking mechanism that does not let it back out after they been tighten down. I reused them for my header install. I dont like the cheap ones that the header manufacturers send out.
 
There is Nothing wrong with my factory ones I was just looking to spruce up things a little bit. On my 92 5.0 bird I used ss bolts lock washers. But that has steel heads
 
I've been using Stage 8 header bolts with their locking clips. The are a little cumbersome to install and even more-so to remove, but they work.
 
Kurt K said:
I've been using Stage 8 header bolts with their locking clips. The are a little cumbersome to install and even more-so to remove, but they work.
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Ever had to re-torque them?
Using a gasket?

What did you do for the studs to mount the coolant pipe and the oil dipstick?
 
Regul8r said:
Ever had to re-torque them?
Using a gasket?

What did you do for the studs to mount the coolant pipe and the oil dipstick?
Click to expand...
This time around, I used the remflex gaskets that Doug has linked in the past. They have only been on my are for a little over 1 month, so I don't know if they will need to be re-torqued. As for studs for the dipstick tube and coolant pipe. I re-used one factory stud (shortened) for the dipstick tube. I long-ago cut off the mounting tabs for the coolant tube and it just "rides" up there.
 
I've had Stage 8 for years and never retorqued. I don't have the coolant tube any more but the dipstick I just sloted the bracket and slip it under the Stage 8 before I tighten it.
 
David Neibert said:
I just use the stock bolts and have never have a problem with them coming loose.

David
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This would require shortening them so they don't bottom out in the head.
Might be a good route to go.

I found "Automotive" studs a True Value today, they would require lock washers and nuts. Probably Stainless?
 
Regul8r said:
This would require shortening them so they don't bottom out in the head.
Might be a good route to go.

I found "Automotive" studs a True Value today, they would require lock washers and nuts. Probably Stainless?
Click to expand...

I don't recall having to shorten the stock bolts.

David
 
Regul8r said:
This would require shortening them so they don't bottom out in the head.
Might be a good route to go.

I found "Automotive" studs a True Value today, they would require lock washers and nuts. Probably Stainless?
Click to expand...

I did not have to shorten mine at all. Put the bolt into the head and see what the gap is compared to the header flange. Trust me Ford goes to great extent in the design of fastening and fasteners. Stainless in aluminum is not a good mix, make sure you use plenty of anitseize or you will never get them back out.
 
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