mark 8 parts on sc

1. complete rear irs minus the air bags
2. front spindles sway bar links and probaly the rest of the front end minus the air bags
3. entire interior will swap out of one into the other
4. wheels

thats all i know of may be more
 
1. complete rear irs minus the air bags
2. front spindles sway bar links and probaly the rest of the front end minus the air bags
3. entire interior will swap out of one into the other
4. wheels

thats all i know of may be more

That interior will need some work - the rear seat's different, the Mark seats are plusher and not as nice for vigorous driving as the SC seats, and the dash and console will take quite a bit of work to fit in (can be done, but not what I'd call easy.)

And one thing to consider is that standard, the Mark VIII didn't have a traklok diff - it used the ABS controller to apply brakes to get the traction control on an open diff. Just something to think about.

That, and the fact that the aluminum pumpkin can be split before the cast iron one can (Mark VIIIs are aluminum, SCs are cast iron ... ) Then again, if you're up in that HP range, you probably already know this :D Most people won't notice that, but if you're running a standard, I'd think three times and then wouldn't switch.

RwP
 
That interior will need some work - the rear seat's different, the Mark seats are plusher and not as nice for vigorous driving as the SC seats, and the dash and console will take quite a bit of work to fit in (can be done, but not what I'd call easy.)

And one thing to consider is that standard, the Mark VIII didn't have a traklok diff - it used the ABS controller to apply brakes to get the traction control on an open diff. Just something to think about.

That, and the fact that the aluminum pumpkin can be split before the cast iron one can (Mark VIIIs are aluminum, SCs are cast iron ... ) Then again, if you're up in that HP range, you probably already know this :D Most people won't notice that, but if you're running a standard, I'd think three times and then wouldn't switch.

RwP

He just asked what would swap ralph and all of this stuff will but it all takes work with the differences in the cars. Everyone talks about the aluminum diff being weaker than the cast sc rear 8.8 but it would take an incredible amount of horsepower to break a diff. I took the trac loc out of my sc rear end and swapped it into the mark 8 rear end in an hour and got it within 5 thousanths with the shims out of both rear ends so im hoping it saves alot of weight and another property of the aluminum I hear few people talk about is how much less vibration transfer you get when you use aluminum as opposed to steal or cast. If anyone has ever kaboomed a mark 8 rear end please chime in.
 
well if there have only been a couple of brocken rear ends I think the weight reduction for the very small amount of time mine will spend at the drag strip is well worth the risk lol
 
I disagree that the aluminium diff is a problem piece. I have been using the aluminum diff for 5 years with anywhere from stock to 400 plus hp. mine is braced with the front and rear braces from SCP and I had 3.08 and 3.55 with a 5 speed and launch with a manual trans at 4-4500rpm. The cobras also used an aluminum diff that is a direct bolt in. I do know the mark diff uses different bearings I believe they are larger too.

John
 
There is no difference in the bearings from any 8.8 case aluminum or cast iron. Heck even the 7.5 uses 3 out of 4 of the same bearings.
Alan
 
is the mark driveshaft better than the s/c I have a 1989 auto with 4.10 and my stock shaft vibrates

Well, it's about 5 inches too long for your car .. http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=102567

I'd find a good driveshaft shop and have one built. Or at least get that one balanced. And if the rubber seal between the two parts has failed, get a new one made.

I'm lucky - if I go steel, a new one with new U-joints (Spicer non-greasable or greasable, my choice!) balanced is like $125 to $150 locally, using my old yokes.

RwP
 
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