NO Brakes!!

89wtSC

Registered User
i am just wondering the best way to take the pressure of the accumulator.. i have run the basic tests and i have good power and ground to everything.. electrical side of things looks good.. i figured an overhaul on the key parts would be a good idea and long lasting.. motor, accumulator, and pressure switch.. i just got the car running and its sounds and runs pretty stong.. i am really excited to get the bugs worked out and start daily driving this beast!.. so any input on the brakes would be greatly appreciated :).. also if anyone knows a good place to find parts for the master, that would also be a big help..
 
I've got all the parts you need....:D

You say you have power to the pump motor.....

Does the pump motor run at all....:confused:

I'll bet the pump motor is locked up and needs to be re-built....

Apply 12v power directly to the pump motor and see if it runs....

I have some freshly re-built pump motors....
 
Even with it seemingly empty, there's enough residual pressure to make a mess. Go for the recommended 20+ and there shouldn't be any spray. :)

Hmmmm...I thought that was suppposed to be 15, but apparently the 1 stuck and it did not work. None the less, go 'till there is no pressure.

SWS
 
just keep wiggllin

these brakes havent been workin for years, but im tryin to bring it back to life.. i also have a 90 sc automatic.. ive been traiding the best of the best and trying to make one good one...

been battling the clutch line all day tryin to do some retro fitting but the new stuff aint made like the old stuff.. looks line i need to buy a line.. but they dont make that part around here any more.. im in florida and it is so hard to find anything for this baby..
 
do parts exist?

I've got all the parts you need....:D

You say you have power to the pump motor.....

Does the pump motor run at all....:confused:

I'll bet the pump motor is locked up and needs to be re-built....

Apply 12v power directly to the pump motor and see if it runs....

I have some freshly re-built pump motors....

yes i have power to the pump motor thru the relay.

motor will not run.. i thru straight power to it..

i even tried to check the pump in the 90 sc and it wouldnt work at all either..

i am in bad need of parts.. lol.. im pulling the unit out of the 90 on saturday and im going to disect that brake master and start the process.. i just wanna do it rite so it will last for a while..

all the input has been a tremendous help!.. thanks for the threads and links.. i have been catchin up on alot of the older forums, none of these issues are new
 
Sounds like the pump motors are locked up.....:mad:

This is a very common problem with these motors....:rolleyes:

The 5.5mm shaft seal on the pump motor wears out over time and lets 2400 psi brake fluid from the accumulator into the inside of the pump motor....:eek:

As we all know, brake fluid is very corrosive......

Eventually, corrosion builds up inside the pump motor housing and puts the brakes to the pump motor....:p
 
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Sounds like the pump motors are locked up.....:mad:

This is a very common problem with these motors....:rolleyes:

The 5.5mm shaft seal on the pump motor wears out over time and lets 2400 psi brake fluid from the accumulator into the inside of the pump motor....:eek:

As we all know, brake fluid is very corrosive......

Eventually, corrosion builds up inside the pump motor housing and puts the brakes to the pump motor....:p

Also, there's no guarantee that the brushes in the motor are still intact. Once you get the unit out, you can separate the motor from the pump and see if the motor locked up by turning the shaft end. If it turns easily, then maybe it only needs brushes.

(I was delving into this recently for my car. I started a thread about it a while ago, but haven't had time to update it yet.)
 
Before you go and dump a ton of money into a motor and accumulator (only to find the MC is bad from sitting), why not go to a conventional brake or hydroboost setup?

SWS
 
hydroboost

Before you go and dump a ton of money into a motor and accumulator (only to find the MC is bad from sitting), why not go to a conventional brake or hydroboost setup?

SWS

i was thinkin the same thing about goin to the conventional setup.. a mechanic friend of mine told me that he installed one out of a mustang and taped into the intake somewhere to get vacuum for the booster.. he said he couldnt powerbrake because it turns from vacuum to pressure so fast, which makes sence.. i havent heard of a hydroboost setup.. i kinda wanted to go oe and stay tru to the car but its not worth smashing into the back of somebody.. lol.. il look into hydroboost some more.. is that a fairly easy conversion?
 
If you use the reference of boost from prior to the SC, you will not get boost to it...or you can use a 1 way valve to keep it from blowing into it. The 93+ SCs have conventional brakes, and I can look and find the vacuum sorce for you if need be.

As far as hydroboost goes, it depends on your mechanical ability. I put them on my Bronco and it was straight forward...BUT, I have not driven it since the swap so I have no real world results. Other people have made the change and like it. You can get them on evilbay from the mustangs. I want to say the entire kit from there was less than $300, but don't quote me.

SWS
 
If you use the reference of boost from prior to the SC, you will not get boost to it...or you can use a 1 way valve to keep it from blowing into it. The 93+ SCs have conventional brakes, and I can look and find the vacuum sorce for you if need be.

As far as hydroboost goes, it depends on your mechanical ability. I put them on my Bronco and it was straight forward...BUT, I have not driven it since the swap so I have no real world results. Other people have made the change and like it. You can get them on evilbay from the mustangs. I want to say the entire kit from there was less than $300, but don't quote me.

SWS[/QUOT

mechanically its not an issue.. i have all the tools and ability to do whatever for the conversion.. i love fabricating..
 
If you use the reference of boost from prior to the SC, you will not get boost to it...or you can use a 1 way valve to keep it from blowing into it. The 93+ SCs have conventional brakes, and I can look and find the vacuum sorce for you if need be.

As far as hydroboost goes, it depends on your mechanical ability. I put them on my Bronco and it was straight forward...BUT, I have not driven it since the swap so I have no real world results. Other people have made the change and like it. You can get them on evilbay from the mustangs. I want to say the entire kit from there was less than $300, but don't quote me.

SWS[/QUOT

mechanically its not an issue.. i have all the tools and ability to do whatever for the conversion.. i love fabricating..

i just watch a conversion on you tube just for the supercoupe.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ528jJbARI&feature=related. i may find out what one of there kits cost.. that would be the answer if its not to expensive.. im stil considering a vacuum system if it is fesable.. i guess as long as i find the rite spot to tap where it doesent build pressure like u said that may work to.. il look into that conversion a lil more..
 
Okay. The vacuum tree needs a source from between the t-body and the back of the SC. You will get vacuum there, with no boost. Thats what gives vacuum to your HVAC stuff (heater).

SWS
 
If you look on your vacuum tree near the MC, you should find a blocked off port....

The LX birds use that port with a 90 degree pre-bent hose to provide vacuum for their braking system....
 
thinkin conventional

so ive pretty much ruled out the electronic idea.. im gonna look into converting it to conventional now... i just gotta reliability and peace of mind.. so im gonna try to do it rite once.. im not one to rush and do a half ~~~ job.. so whatever means necessary to get this rite i feel obligated to do just that..:) lol..

So now i need to look for the best fitting conventional setup.. walker said the 93+ sc has conventional setup.. my question would be which one fits the best?. a mechanic friend, who has previously owned a couple sc's in the past said he used one out of a mustang.. he said it bolted right in.. no drilling or special bracket.. il ask him what year mustang it came out of.. but i would imagin i could find one that would come of an sc or an lx maybe..

you guys have been a huge help!.. i wanna thank u again.. yall know alot about supercoupes.. these cars are really cool but they arent really a dime a dozen.. im gonna be the only one in my town once i get it rollin good!! cant wait for that!.
 
so ive pretty much ruled out the electronic idea.. im gonna look into converting it to conventional now... i just gotta reliability and peace of mind.. so im gonna try to do it rite once.. im not one to rush and do a half ~~~ job.. so whatever means necessary to get this rite i feel obligated to do just that..:) lol..

So now i need to look for the best fitting conventional setup.. walker said the 93+ sc has conventional setup.. my question would be which one fits the best?. a mechanic friend, who has previously owned a couple sc's in the past said he used one out of a mustang.. he said it bolted right in.. no drilling or special bracket.. il ask him what year mustang it came out of.. but i would imagin i could find one that would come of an sc or an lx maybe..

you guys have been a huge help!.. i wanna thank u again.. yall know alot about supercoupes.. these cars are really cool but they arent really a dime a dozen.. im gonna be the only one in my town once i get it rollin good!! cant wait for that!.

One possibility - I took the master cylinder out of a 1991 baseline (no ABS) Thunderbird, and the brake booster. Used the MC as core (it cost $6, core fee was $30, so I saved $24!) against a Cardone reman. I had kept the ferrules also.

I took a M10-1.0 bleeder and put it in the M10-1.0 port furthest from the firewall, took the M12-1.0 ferrule and put it on the line that ran down to the proportioning valve / ARC pressure switch. That took care of the back brakes.

The FRONT brakes just bolted right up to the two ports left.

Now, since yours is a 1989, there's a chance that the flare is different, and you'll have to reflare the lines.

Also, I've not yet gotten the low brake fluid switch working. That's a matter of deciphering the wiring diagram and rewiring the connector - my old Teves had a 5 pin connector, the new MC has a three pin connector. So get the connector and as much cable as you can from the donor car.

I also snarfed the vacuum hose and the check valve from the donor.

Here's the MC I used: http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/g...p://my.cardone.com/Imagesftp/13/132566-01.jpg . It's Cardone 132566 at http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1198672&parttype=1836 .

Booster is from the same area, and I really should have ordered a new one instead of using the junkyard one - mine is leaking vacuum now when I brake (the car "SIGHS" when I press the brake pedal - NOT a good thing.)

Do check the thread here - there's other suggestions, and some big hints on other ways to get there from here.

RwP
 
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