stupid clutch line

1fstb1rd

Registered User
I know this is redundant, and i have used the search function for the last hr with no avail, im pulling my trans as we speak, and when i went to push in that stupid white bushing the thing was destroyed!:eek: The last person who was in there in 93 destroyed that white bushing, im getting very frustrated. it goes in slightly, but not enough to disenage it, it looks like a dog chewed on it, and advice?
 
clutch troubles

I know this is redundant, and i have used the search function for the last hr with no avail, im pulling my trans as we speak, and when i went to push in that stupid white bushing the thing was destroyed!:eek: The last person who was in there in 93 destroyed that white bushing, im getting very frustrated. it goes in slightly, but not enough to disenage it, it looks like a dog chewed on it, and advice?

u just gotta pb blast the crap out of it and just work it and be patient.. it will come eventually.. if its an original line ur tryin to get out.. the end of it gets corroded from the fluid.. the oe line is made out of pot metal or somethin and it swells up.. i would up removin the roll pin from the slave cylinder and leaving the female part on the line till i got the tranny out of the way and it was easier.. but i also had the motor out of the way when i did that..
 
One of the challenges with removing the line is that the fit tolerance is pretty tight. That means when you try to remove the fitting you must do so straight out of the coupling. if you pull it from one side to the other the aluminum fitting can bind in the bore.

Spray the fitting well with wd40 or some other penetrating oil to flush out any dirt trapped around the fitting. Attempt to pull the white nylon material out of the way, and off the bore. If it is too long to do so, then you have enough to work with. Press it down as far as you can while you press the line side of the fitting into the fitting. This will gain clearance for the white sleeve to slide over the fitting and compress the metal retention fingers, which hold the fitting in.

If you are unable to put enough pressure on that white fitting, you can use a tin snips and cut from a soup can a strip of metal. File the edges so it doesn't cut into the fitting and get it to the right length and height to wrap around the outside of the fitting. You can then use that to give you extra push to push the remaining bit of white sleeve. With the fitting pressed in, and the white sleeve pushed down fully, gently attempt to remove the line without pulling it one way or the other. Do not use anything to pry on the fitting. It is machined aluminum and could crack. Make sure the pressure is even around the fitting.

If you get it right, it will pull out though dirt in the bore of the fitting might make it a bit challenging. I've yet to figure out a source for a replacement white sleeve.
 
Are you pulling just the trans? What they said, flush out the fitting real good. When flushing it wiggle it as much as you can to get the crap out. If the nylon sleeve will not slide in to release the 'fingers', take it off and find something thinner and flexible to replace it. If that doesn't work, cut the hose and buy a new one. If the slave is the original- replace it while you are in there. Gently remove the master cyl from inside tha car, attach the new line and reinstall the master cyl. carefully guiding the line to the trans.
MikeH
 
the issue was there was barely any white bushing left, it was all torn up, it couldnt slide into the bore if it even wanted too, so what i did was take a pick and pull out the remaining peices of the white bushing, i sprayed the hell out of it even more, and cut down a fuel line removal tool and used that to get it off, once i did that it came off easy, but it was because the springs were not even getting unlocked from that stupid white bushing. 2 hours to remove the line, ill have the motor out this week, and once the money comes in order in the rest of the parts i need. what a battle, other than that line i had the tranny out in under an hour. Thanks for everyones input, its greatly appreciated.
 
And on a lighter note and another subject, My shifter has ALOT of play in it, im guessing it is like a ball and socket, i can lift the shift handle about 1/4in out of the "socket", is there anyway to get a replacement bushing for the shifter? it was always loud and "clunky" and now is the time to fix it. I have never had the pleasure of workin on this wonderful transmission, but it seems to be going great!:D:D:D
 
tool

I use this tool and it comes off every time. That is, if you haven't destroyed it yet.

9094209_lg.jpg
 
You'll need to replace that white plastic sleeve before reseating the clutch line back into the new slave cylinder or you may not be able to get it out again. A new slave cylinder will have a spring clip in it but the sleeve is part of the fittling on the clutch line. I made one out of teflon sheeting once. That spring clip is the only thing holding the line in the slave cylinder fitting.
 
Im going to keep my cut down fuel line removal tool on there, it actually works perfectly with a little lip to press down with your hands, it fits the bore just like the old bushing, it was a miracle. i can just leave it on there there is no possible way it can come off because the fit is so perfect, i should market these, ill be rich!
 
the pilot bushing that came with my clutch kit is just a soild oiled bronze one with no needle bearings... there is no way that is correct right? i have never seen one like that. can someone clarify that for me?
 
just go to your parts house and tell them you need a pilot bearing.
TIMKEN Part # FC65174 (there are other brands)
about $8-15
MikeH
 
so this brass one is completely wrong? i have no issues getting the bearing, i have timkin and skf p/ns but i have never ever seen a pilot like this. it came with the clutch kit i ordered from RockAuto. Its more confusing me than anything else. Do you happen to know of any part numbers for the bushings for the shifter, or the "cup" that the ball of the shifter sits in?
 
Im going to keep my cut down fuel line removal tool on there, it actually works perfectly with a little lip to press down with your hands, it fits the bore just like the old bushing, it was a miracle. i can just leave it on there there is no possible way it can come off because the fit is so perfect, i should market these, ill be rich!

i meant to mention the cut down fuel line trick.. i was gonna do the same thing, but it was my buddies tool.. good job!!. sometimes the end of the line where it goes to the slave and bites the teeth, that part gets corroded on oe lines.. i tried to do some filing and finessing, i put my old line back in and it blew out on me after my first good run.. still got no brakes but i just got it runnin good and wanted to see how it felt.. it ripped pretty hard!..
i would recomend a new line if urs looks dilapidated and corroded..
u should do a short shift kit if u havent already.. it makes a nice tight race feel.. and the ball rebuild is a good idea to.. i do know of some guys that are sellin lines..
 
Do you even need to replace the pilot bearing? They are are real ~~~~ to get out. Under the car without a puller tool of some sort, good luck. If the rollers are Ok just grease it up real good and leave it. I wouldn't use the solid bronze bearing.
 
the pilot is missing needles, they came with with the trans!:eek: As the trans and motor are coming out i see more and more stuff that needs to be replaced. a ripper is WAYYYYY outta my price range at the moment. i will just get a regular pilot bearing. the bronze one feels so slick on the input shaft tho.. hahah but it will definatly wear down over time. oh well, at least its cheap!

my line is fine, the bushing is just destroyed. oh well, on to the next, right?
 
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