3.8 rebuild

I beleive so, looking for rebuild combination suggestions for a strong streetable combination.

Need more info. For example what do you have now that isn't stock, is this an automatic or manual transmission car, what is your budget or goal for ET or HP ?

Strong and streetable are very subjective terms and don't really help.

David
 
I would think a dissassembly is in order, then diagnosis and solution, followed by a reassembly.

But then I already think the SC is Strong and Streetable.

Might want to incorporate ARP stud set for the HG's, better flowing exhaust. Other than that... how much do you want to go fast? :rolleyes:
 
Set of forged pistons and H beam rods form Dave Dalke will make for a bullit prof bottom end. ARP head studs for better head retention. The heart of the engine is the cam so spec out an aggresive cam. Install some better valve springs and a set of roller rockers and you will have a stout street engine. Of course you will need bigger MAF, Throttle body and some big injectors, port out the stock exhaust manifold. Stir it all up and add a tune.

Ken
 
car and motor are stock backed up to a stock automatic, budget $3000 for parts & machine work. Cars driven 150 miles a day and autocrossed a couple times a month. I don't have a specific HP. Looking for ideas on which cam, rods (stock length or long rod), pistons, head modifications,injectors, performance chip, that would work best for autocrossing.
 
You SHOULD be able to do all this but will need used parts. The only thing I am not sure on is pistons, which would have to be new.

Pistons
$500 Machine work
$300 TQ converter
Free J-mod
$500 Gears
FULL exhaust, price dependes on what you see and how lucky you get
Pullies to speed up the blower and a good IC fan. Ken Wagner has a DIC for sale RIGHT NOW for a good price that will help out too.

You will be over budget with this build with what I have listed here. You will still need to get the 2.8GM studs for your heads, gaskets, fluids, and other misc stuff that will come up.

Other things you will need will be a tb, inlet, MAF, filter, etc.

All of this I will tell you that you will want to have to START. This is without a tune. Now, you can look into the "power secrets" thread and go from there. But this is with your block coming apart, needing pistons.

Common knowledge is that the inlet needs to be swapped for the MP (or custom) unit to allow the M90 to get air.

SWS
 
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