brake conversion process

89wtSC

Registered User
Hi there yall!.. I have my brothers labtop again so im back.. So i am makin the conversion with the conventional brakes on my 89 sc.. the old electronic brake master beast is lying under a boat motor, leaking to its doom.. which will be my form of a core charge later..

I now have a big old booster mounted to the firewall.. I did a lil drill modification, because the holes didnt line up.. two out of the three holes lined up, so i wollered the two and just drilled one new hole and it shimmied rite in.. i have it attached to the pedal and it feels pretty good!

tomorow i am gonna put the master on and c how mand lines i can bend.. i still have to join the two fronts into one and find plugs for two of the four ports on the master.. usiong the stock proportioning valve.. i couldnt find a two port master for that particular booster.. the booster is for a 93 sc.. and so is the master.. but they only offer a four port mater for that particular setup.. so plugin sounds fesible.. the stock fittings that were in the old master screw into the new on.. the bigger fitting s the rear and goes in the front port and the two fronts thread into the rear port.. which makes perfect sence to me.. its almost plug and play.. the vacuum issue is about figured.. im gonna steal a actch can out of my rooomates s10.. lol

good to be back! bounce me some feedback opf u have made this conversion on ur sc.. everyones opinoin is always appreciated and considered from this forum.. u guys usually always know quite a bit about these cool cars.. keep the wheels turnin!
 
tomorow i am gonna put the master on and c how mand lines i can bend.. i still have to join the two fronts into one and find plugs for two of the four ports on the master.

If it's the no-proportioning-valve MC, then you can actually run the two front lines to one of the MC port pairs (back or front), and use a M10-1.0 brake bleeder in the smaller of the other pair to run the back lines.

No need to plug and then run to a block.

(If it's the MC with the M16 and M18 port - if you find something to plug those two, post what you find, please!)

RwP
 
If it's the no-proportioning-valve MC, then you can actually run the two front lines to one of the MC port pairs (back or front), and use a M10-1.0 brake bleeder in the smaller of the other pair to run the back lines.

No need to plug and then run to a block.

(If it's the MC with the M16 and M18 port - if you find something to plug those two, post what you find, please!)

RwP

Im looking for plugs as we type:)
 
You can always get a plug for it at Menards or whatever local hardware store

Really?

You have a manufacturer and/or part number?

None of the ones in Shreveport/Bossier, Louisiana have such a critter.

That includes the big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot, Ace) and the locals (Swan Lake or Centenary Hardware).

RwP
 
i couldnt find plugs anywhere for the m16 and m18 ports.. so i got a different mc.. i had a 132567 and now i have a 132566.. which is still a four port but it has 2 m10 and 2 m12 ports and its a non abs.. i dont think im gonna need to tee the 2 fronts together now.. i should be able to screw all the lines into the mc and plug just one m12 port and that should do it.. then its time to bleed..
il have more this week when i get some free time to work on the car..
 
i couldnt find plugs anywhere for the m16 and m18 ports.. so i got a different mc.. i had a 132567 and now i have a 132566.. which is still a four port but it has 2 m10 and 2 m12 ports and its a non abs.. i dont think im gonna need to tee the 2 fronts together now.. i should be able to screw all the lines into the mc and plug just one m12 port and that should do it.. then its time to bleed..
il have more this week when i get some free time to work on the car..

May be better to change the fitting on the line down to the proportioning valve to a M12, and find a M10-1.0 bleeder to fill that port instead.

I never found a M12-1.0 plug. If you do, find out manufacturer and part number for others doing this in the future! :eek:

RwP
 
alrite i pretty much got it all together.. i still have to tee the fronts together.. the mc i used was 132566.. it has 2 m10 and 2 m12 ports.. i used the 10 for the front and the 12 for the rear.. but i didnt tee the fronts, i just screw the lines diectly to the mc.. but i dont seem to be getting equal pressure to both fronts.. i already have all the tees and fittings.. aeroquip store online has all u need.. i think the distributers name is south county industrial supply... i picked up the plugs from advanced discount auto parts.. i will put together a do it urself tutorial with pics when i get the labtop back.. but thank god i am stopping pretty good now so i am verry thankfull for all the input from everyone!! Happy new year!
 
alrite i pretty much got it all together.. i still have to tee the fronts together.. the mc i used was 132566.. it has 2 m10 and 2 m12 ports.. i used the 10 for the front and the 12 for the rear.. but i didnt tee the fronts, i just screw the lines diectly to the mc.. but i dont seem to be getting equal pressure to both fronts.

If you're not getting equal pressure to the two fronts, either you didn't put the two fronts on the same MC piston, or you've got another problem.

And if you used the M-10 fittings for the two front lines, yes, you didn't match them.

What I did was put one front line to the M10, and one to the M12, closest to the booster.

I then put the bleeder in the M10 at the end of the master cylinder, and the line down to the proportioning valve on the M12 on the other side, again at the end.

This has served me well (until recently, when the booster started leaking vacuum ... not directly related, I should have used new instead of recycling that part. Le sigh.)

RwP
 
It sounds like i need to move on of the lines on the mc to the same side.. to use the same piston in the mc.. i thought that may be all it was, i just wasnt sure how a mc works exactly but i got a better clue now after talkin to some guys.. the only problem for me is changin the front brake line fitting from m10 to m12.. that means cuttin and flaring the line which i wanna stay away from.. i may stick to the idea of teeing the fronts together and pluging the other port that will be left in the mc.. il let you know how that works out for me..
on the other hand the car is running excelent!! just fixing all the little odds and ends now and cleaning all the crap out of it.. its a great car that has just been neglected and need some tlc.. but it is runnin great! it hangs with my buddies 95 5.0 mustang.. his is automatic and he has some bolt ons.. im still bone stock..
 
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