Motor and Trans swap

joshpowell16

Registered User
So I'm considering. Swapping the 3.8l SC out for a 302 HO or bigger. I know the 302. Will fit, but what about a 460 BBF?

I'm not to fond of the 3.8l it seems to have to many issues. Hard to work on. And parts either don't exist or are expensive. The 302 I've got alot more experience with and I love that v8 rumble. But I don't want to rob the SC of its dignity by pulling what makes it a SC.

Now my? Is. Will I need to change the wire harness to accommodate the 302? What exactly has to be done to fit the 302?

Now I want it to be manual. I hate autos. So what 5spd should I bolt up to the 3.8l and what should I bolt up to the 5.0?

The shop I sold my 86 gt convertible too still has it and is willing to part it out. So I can get the complete Gt drivetrain package, along with computers and wiring.

Any ideas or comments are 100% appreciated.
Josh
 
The stock 5 speed will work with a 302....After all is said and done however your car will have a nice v8 rumble and be slower. Not worth it in my book when you can get an easy 300rwhp out of the 3.8 with a lot less time and money then doing a 302 swap.

460 fits. Just do a search on here
 
say i stick with the 3.8l

What's the easiest way to get HP out of it. I got a buddy with a GTP who likes to talk ~~~~. I'd love to show him up at route 66 drag strip in Joliet, il in the spring. He's stuck on the fact that his gtp is statistically faster.

I seen a Mac cold air and throttle body combo give around 50 HP on SC. But would that require some additional tunning?
 
Almost anything will require additional tuning.

If you DO want to go a Ford V8 swap, I'd consider a 351W-based 460, and buy a rolling 91-93 TBird/Cougar with the 5.0 in it.

That gets you all the wiring you'll need in a rolling chassis.

Heck, TBH, I'd consider buying a 91-93 (ideally a 93!) Tbird or Cougar with the 5.0, and building it up, and selling the SC.

The 91 XR7, for instance, is basically a 5.0HO powered SC for trim / suspension / option offerings.

(Yes, I know "5.0HC powered SC" is an oxymoron :D )

But if you're looking for cheap - as has been noted here, the 3.8SC (possibly as a 4.3SC build) can be done for in the same ballpark for pricing, and it's different.

Now, if you just want fast - grab a Fox 'Stang, stuff a 460 in it, and go to town. You'll lose a lot of style points (well, keep it a 4 eyed 'Stang, and you'll get some back), but at least you'll get a better weight/power distribution, and parts are cheap. Just be prepared to have to hunt for your car in the parking lot with all the OTHER 'Stangs out there :D:D

RwP
 
well...

Seeing as I love my SC body n trim and I'm only gonna have $2000 to play with I think ill stick with the 3.8sc. But what can I do to it without pulling it for internal upgrades like crank, rods, valvetrain, etc..

I see reduction pulley and changing the SC pulley will boost it up some. But what really works? The car is my only, so it can't be down for more than a day. Once I get another car I can let it sit while I tear into it. I have till income tax time to decide my route of power lol.
 
Then may I suggest spending that $2K on suspension / brakes / rubber / rear gearing?

Let's improve it where the "Rubber Meets The Road" so that the HP you have does the most good.

Take the last $500 or so and buy a QuarterHorse so you can tune it as desired. Also, take a bit more and buy a good canned tune from someone here to get the most out of what you have.

That, or start off working on a Fox 'Stang :D If nothing else, build one with the 3.8NA for your DD and then you can take your time with the SC.

RwP
 
What would be done to the suspension? Just a lowering kit?

So a good way to start would be cold air, tbi, lowering kit, tune, and ceramic brake pads?
What would u recommended for a street tire? Or should I invest in 2 more rims wrapped in some grippy drag tires.

Next summer I plan to run it several times.
 
What would be done to the suspension? Just a lowering kit?

So a good way to start would be cold air, tbi, lowering kit, tune, and ceramic brake pads?
What would u recommended for a street tire? Or should I invest in 2 more rims wrapped in some grippy drag tires.

Next summer I plan to run it several times.

Actually, I was more thinking "Replace ALL the rubber things!" :D

New UCA/LCA in front, new swaybar end links, new strut rod bushings, new springs and shocks (this would be a good time to drop the lowering springs in if you so desire.)

In the rear, new poly or delrin spindle bushings, new hub bearings, new poly or delring LCA bushings, new UCA bushings, new swaybar end links (and again, this is a good time to put the lowering springs in.)

New poly diff mounts, along with a new-to-you diff with a more-appropriate gear ratio for your car and driving.

While doing the front, if your car is a 89-91 (or 92, forget which), put the later front spindles on so you can get the PBR or 16" Mark VIII discs on the front.

I'd skip the CAI for now - consider where the current intake sucks its air from. Now, a low-restriction panel filter and removing the silencer, yah, I can see that. But a CAI? You run the risk of making it less drivable in heavy rains (due to the air intake sticking below the hole in the fender) or you have to make a heat shield (since if you don't, it'll be sucking the hot air out of the engine bay instead.)

TBI? If you mean Throttle Body Injection (what comes to MY mind with that acronym), why? The current computer and fuel injection is MUCH better than TBI ever was.

I'd talk to others here - my thrust is "I drives lotsa miles, need good comfortable driver" so my choice in tires would not be your choice :D:D

A tune is always recommended, and not just by the guys SELLING the tuning :p

RwP
 
Last edited:
tbi

What I meant by that was the throttle body. Upgrade it to 80 mm or so. To match the CAI. For Tires, I need them to last a while ride decent n have some grip.

I understand putting in better bushing makes the horsepower transfer better by eliminating movement in the drivetrain. Is it that noticeable of a difference?

Same goes for susp. It helps the weight transfer.

For the CAI ....I get why ur saying about the heat and the water...is there a nice CAI kit somewhere? Or maybe a special mod to set it up myself? Other than eliminating the silencer etc..
 
What I meant by that was the throttle body. Upgrade it to 80 mm or so. To match the CAI. For Tires, I need them to last a while ride decent n have some grip.

I understand putting in better bushing makes the horsepower transfer better by eliminating movement in the drivetrain. Is it that noticeable of a difference?

Same goes for susp. It helps the weight transfer.

For the CAI ....I get why ur saying about the heat and the water...is there a nice CAI kit somewhere? Or maybe a special mod to set it up myself? Other than eliminating the silencer etc..

For $2000 I would suggest a set of XR7Dave stage 1 heads (ported, polished, and larger valves), a chip from XR7Dave, injectors, port your exhaust manifolds, replace resonator with magnaflow, replace cats w/ highflow ones, try to find a 2nd gen m90 w/plenum, larger maf and throttle body.
 
What I meant by that was the throttle body. Upgrade it to 80 mm or so. To match the CAI. For Tires, I need them to last a while ride decent n have some grip.

I understand putting in better bushing makes the horsepower transfer better by eliminating movement in the drivetrain. Is it that noticeable of a difference?

Same goes for susp. It helps the weight transfer.

For the CAI ....I get why ur saying about the heat and the water...is there a nice CAI kit somewhere? Or maybe a special mod to set it up myself? Other than eliminating the silencer etc..

You may need to rethink the throttle body upgrade.

From what I read, what you have factory works up to about 300+ RWHP - so I'd spend money elsewhere first.

As to the "better bushing" - consider the car is 22 years old, a lot of the rubber will be rotten. This is more "Fix what's wearing out" and "Upgrade WHILE fixing" than anything. I mean, missing rubber means the rear end won't stay properly planted, new rubber helps it keep planted, delrin and poly helps get rid of some of the higgledy-piggledy bouncing around these rear ends can do under heavy accelleration.

For the CAI - Again, I'd get a good low-restriction panel filter first. Just because BillyBob stuffed one in his Mustang and Jimmy stuck one in his Honda doesn't mean it does anything worth mentioning beside "make it sound really tough!" :D The SECRET is to reduce restriction.

Before I worried about THAT end, I'd clear the exhaust. A freer flowing intake does nothing when the exhaust is stuffed.

For the exhaust, Mandrel Exhaust Systems ( www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com ) has a couple of nice kits - one for the front, one for the back, that only needs a pair of mufflers (and that's optional!) to help the exhaust breathe better.

I'd spend the money there before I spent much on the throttle body, plenum, and air intake. Money where it does the most good, after all.

RwP
 
Sounds like a great plan. Ill start the pricing n searching.

Thanks abunch for the info. It was really helpful.

Yah, it's all about "Where will the money spent return the best yield?"

I tend to temper that with "While keeping the car safe and driveable?" - hence my suggestion for the suspension and braking VERY early on in the repair/upgrade cycle.

RwP
 
If the car is auto and you want to do away with that there is your $2000 budget.
Maybe next year on the rest.
Alan
 
Josh,

There is a ton you can do. A head and cam swap is basically needed to break that 300rwhp barrier..Then of course supporting mods and a tune.

As for bolt ons there is quite a bit you can do without touching heads or the cam. Underive pulleyes, larger TB, MAF, late model blower s ported, mp inlet/intake, XX% JAckshaft pulley or blower pulley..exhaust. And in the end youll want a tune

And faster then that gtp or not..Your car will be nicer amd ride better
 
Back
Top