Oh, Snap!

bigpoppa822

Registered User
Finally pulled my motor out today, took a few pictures. The crankshaft snapped right in between the first two cylinders. Found it was turned .020 by the paint on the crank, and the car had maybe 15k on it when it blew. Lesson learned, don't buy a reman motor from a random engine depot.

New motor will be 4.2 stroker with forged rods and pistons and a bigger cam (thanks Dave). Just need to get the block machined for the correct deck height and bore.


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Also had collapsed (torn in half) motor mounts which caused the pan to smash into the k-member every time I decelerated, this was a pleasant find.
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Also had a stock clutch in it for the entire time I drove it, and the PO used it too. Not bad for my first manual car and ~280rwhp and 380lb-ft. Centerforce DF will be replacing it.

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Enjoy the pictures from my expensive mishap!
Tom
 
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No way...It is supposed to be that way. Usually you only use the last 5 clys. Then, when the SC kicks in (Like Mad Max style) that #1 cyl starts to turn and makes good power.:D The technology was just before it's time I guess:rolleyes:

But look at the bright side, you could have had the crappy mounts in there and put the new engine in prior to the mounts going bye-bye and THEN had a hole snapped in the pan while you are on the road.

SWS
 
I had that happen to me due to a bad balancer. But my rod cap didn't crack too.:eek: maybe it's not cracked on second look but sure does look like it.
 
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But look at the bright side, you could have had the crappy mounts in there and put the new engine in prior to the mounts going bye-bye and THEN had a hole snapped in the pan while you are on the road.

SWS

If this didn't break the same motor would still be in there. I bought new motor mounts about two weeks before it blew and was planning on replacing them. I didn't know the pan got that bad. I think (hope) the mounts I bought are solid rubber and not fluid filled, but I can't remember where I bought them.



And I didn't even notice that the rod cap cracked.
 
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