Climate Control Stops Working/Battery Light

N

NorthrnSCownr

Registered User
The other day I noticed my battery light was on on the dash. THis was a first since picking the car up from DD in the early fall.

Along with the battery light illuminating, the climate control feature stopped working. When first staring the car the light is rather dull. Once under load it brightens.

I checked the fuses and only the 4FL on the High Current fuses was blown. I believe that is the autoshock fuse and I replaced it.

Since then if I leave the car off and start it up, the climate control works, with the battery light dull. Once I start driving a little ways the climate control light will shut off and the control stops working and the battery light gets bright again. Then after a bit the lights on the climate control unit will flash on again momentarily and when it does, the battery light brightens again, then the climate control light and control shuts off again.

If I shut the car off for a few minutes/little while, the climate control is working fine when restarting the car until I start driving again.

It seems to me that there is a loose connection somewhere, perhaps behind the climate control unit? I know the dash was apart several times so perhaps that has something to do with it?

Battery is charged and alternator is charging though I haven't yet put the multimeter to it.

Any help or suggestions are appreciated. TIA
 
Ignition switch.

When they start failing, all SORTS of stuff works/doesn't work.

It's at the bottom of the column, not inside.

RwP
 
I drove the car tonight for the first time since the issue stared and it's worsening. The headlights are slightly strobing and the radio is doing the same thing as the climate control. It certainly looks like the IS.

Thanks again for the diagnosis Ralph.
 
You may want to consider rewiring your headlights to some relays. Not difficult to do and you will never have a problem with that ignition switch again.

Regards

Sean
 
sdw said:
You may want to consider rewiring your headlights to some relays. Not difficult to do and you will never have a problem with that ignition switch again.

Regards

Sean
Click to expand...

Ahem.

The ignition switch fails whether the lights are on a relay or not.

You're thinking of the MFS and the light/dimmer switch.

The ignition switch's main problem seems to be that the metal crimp that holds it together - comes loose with age. Which causes oxidation, which causes stuff to not work - and can cause excessive heat trauma to the switch (including a possibility of it catching fire - slim, but not non-existent!)

I'd STILL add a couple of relay sets. Oh, wait, I DID add relay sets for the high and low beams for my car :D:D And am hunting up the connectors so I can build a relay set for the fog lights.

RwP
 
RalphP said:
Ahem.

The ignition switch fails whether the lights are on a relay or not.

You're thinking of the MFS and the light/dimmer switch.

RwP
Click to expand...

Dang! That's what I get for taking so long to get my T'Bird on the road. I'm starting to forget what the parts are called. You are 100% correct! :eek:

Sean
 
I can't find my shop manual ATM. To swap the IS out, is it pretty much removing the column covers and horn pad (after disconnecting the battery of course) then you need a security torx bit to remove two fasteners holding the switch in and put everything back together?

Does the horn pad go back on as easy as it comes off?

Any other tips are appreciated.
 
The SWITCH is at the bottom of the column.

No need to remove the horn pad at all.

On Ruby, the 1991, I just climbed under there and used my security TORX bits to remove the old one, and install the new one.

Also had to unhook the rod from the ignition key tumblers.

And rehook, of course!

You may need to remove the dash panel at the bottom of the dash (both the plastic trim and the metal under piece) to get to the ignition switch, I don't remember at this time.

RwP
 
RalphP said:
So you're just getting started.

Come down here to Louisiana and we'll serve you some REAL coffee, you betcha! :D:D

RwP
Click to expand...

Just another reason to go on a nice long roadtrip once my car is finally on the road. :cool:

Sean
 
RalphP said:
The SWITCH is at the bottom of the column.

No need to remove the horn pad at all.

On Ruby, the 1991, I just climbed under there and used my security TORX bits to remove the old one, and install the new one.

Also had to unhook the rod from the ignition key tumblers.

And rehook, of course!

You may need to remove the dash panel at the bottom of the dash (both the plastic trim and the metal under piece) to get to the ignition switch, I don't remember at this time.

RwP
Click to expand...

Oh, thanks Ralph. Thats good news.

Edit: BTW - It was my Haynes Manual that said I needed to remove the horn cover for this task. Bastids!
 
Last edited:
I agree ...

XR7 Dave said:
Get your alternator tested.
Click to expand...

The alternator on my '97 LX recently went bad. It was putting out 18 volts. That makes all sorts of funny things happen - the a/c, radio and various idiot lights including batter, ABS, air bag, etc. would come on and off as the computer tried to protect the car from the power surge.

Eddie
'90 5-speed SC
'97 LX sport
 
FYI:
The ignition switch is hot at all times when the battery is hooked up. So either be very careful or disconnect the battery before messing with it. Those are some fat wires down there; you could melt something.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top