Heads are off....

kennyo

Registered User
is there any thing else I should do while I have down this far?? I really like my mileage(10%) pulley only and no cats. Every thing is stock(140k). The coolant was seeping out the sides is why I'm doing the HG's. I'd love to get more out of it but the 22mpg is hard to let go. The wp has been replaced along with the belts and hoses. Just looking for tips, thanks.
 
good time to replace valve seals, they usually come w head set. can rent or borrow spring compressor. would also have heads dye tested, and if ok lightly sanded/ ground. also good time to check rockers as they are prone for wear at valve end. nylon seals for intercooler connections and all vac lines. good luck
 
With that many miles the motor mounts are most likely shot, and they are really easy to change with the heads off. Suggest going with solid rubber mounts instead of the stock gel filled type.

David
 
New valvesprings..stock is barely adequate. Not saying go crazy but this will definitely help you.And get the ARP head studs for a 2.8 chevy..Skip the TTY bolts
 
If you can swing it, buy a set of arp head studs. They are reusable and much better than using factory head bolts.

chris
 
Ralph,
Are the upper control arms much easier to do with heads off, or just a known item to do at 140k? I'm in the same place (but at 180k), and never thought about them(as a heads off being the time maint. item).
Thanks
Adam
 
Ralph,
Are the upper control arms much easier to do with heads off, or just a known item to do at 140k? I'm in the same place (but at 180k), and never thought about them(as a heads off being the time maint. item).
Thanks
Adam

I would be very surprised to see original control arms at 180k miles. At a minimum, the boots would probably have cracked by then, which allows dirt onto the ball joint, which will lead to failure.

It is easier to get at the UCAs with the heads off. But you can do them with the engine fully assembled.

However, you usually have to break open the AC system to get at the passenger side UCA. The accumulator / dryer is blocking one bolt. If your AC is dead, then it's not much of a worry, but if you are still using it, it will cost some money to get the refrigerant siphoned off and then replaced.
 
I've already done the control arms, motor mounts, wp, pulley snout, etc.I also did the mk8 front brakes. Will the springs help it rev higher? I 'm currently driving a 2011 370Z, that bastard zings to 7500rpm!!!
I've had this car since 20K miles, it fits like an old glove:)
 
I've already done the control arms, motor mounts, wp, pulley snout, etc.I also did the mk8 front brakes. Will the springs help it rev higher? I 'm currently driving a 2011 370Z, that bastard zings to 7500rpm!!!
I've had this car since 20K miles, it fits like an old glove:)

I wouldnt do springs unless you do the cam as well. If you ever get your motor up to 7500 rpm the SC motor will zing too. Pistons and rods will zing all over your engine compartment:eek::D:D:D If you are serious about springs I would ask Dave Dalke, since he builds a lot of the engines for members here he is the guy in the know

Ken
 
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The stock springs are weak, and Comp used to have a spring the dropped right in for a stock replacement. Upgrading the springs will not help you rev any higher, just be reliability factor.
 
when i had my heads off the valves and springs and seals were good , i was most interested in smoothing the exhaust ports on the heads . it helped tremendously

ralph
 
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