Pulling stub shaft bearings W/ Harbour Freight puller

So I was looking at this beraing puller at Harbour Freight to pull the stub shaft seals and bearings from a Mark VIII pumpkin.



I had my doubts, but I figured that for $17 vs the OTC slide hammer equivelent for more than $100 I could take a chance.

The tool did work after some modification. It was just barely large enough to do the job. I had to grind the end of two of the claws so that they could get under the seal without the bearing interfearing. I also had to cut all the rubber out of the seal so that the claws could gtip the steel housing of the seal.

The seals must be pulled out first in order to allow the jaws to spred far enough to grip the bearings (I think the OTC puller allows you to remove the seals and bearings in one shot). Take care when pulling the bearings to spreat the jaws just enough to get under the bearings and not scratch the side of the aluminum pumpkin. You will have to hold the T handle while turning collar nut to keep the jaws from spreading further as you pull the bearing out

If you have the case apart you can knock them out from the other side.
Alan

Dirtyd0g said:

If you have the case apart you can knock them out from the other side.
Alan

Click to expand...

This is how I did it. Not hard but will ruin the bearing.

Mark

Not if you use a properly sized driver but that puller will ruin the bearing as well.
Alan

Dirtyd0g said:

If you have the case apart you can knock them out from the other side.
Alan

Click to expand...

I was going to use a large punch to drive the bearings out. That was how I did the pinion bearing races, but I put a couple of good sized gouges in the case so I decided to do the bearings like this

I found that the stator race from inside chrysler rwd torque converters is about .020 smaller than the case bore. I put one of them in there and then take a bar and hit it.
Alan

Ahh, yes of course. I should've thought of that myself

I would bet there is a large socket that fits it as well.
Alan