Changing valve springs with heads on tool?

rzimmerl

Registered User
What have you guys used to change valvesprings with the heads still on in the car? It does not look to be a fun job, but I'd like to try to do it with out pulling the heads. Due to apparent over revs leading to evidence of valve bounce I'm replacing the springs, retainers, locks, cups, lifters, possibly adjustable rockers, and running longer pushrods to bury the lifter plunger.
 
A fitting to allow to hook up an air line to the spark plug hole to pressurize the cylinder and keep the valve against the seat
 
I was going to use the rope method to keep the valves in, looking for the best tool/method to compress the springs.
 
I was going to use the rope method to keep the valves in, looking for the best tool/method to compress the springs.

The air pressure method works pretty good and that is how we changed the springs and valve seals on mine. A leak down test kit works great for putting air pressure in the cylinders.

David
 
Ryan,

Of those, the cam action one will be the easiest. You will also want to have an extendable magnet for catching the keepers and some wheel bearing or similiar thick grease for sticking/holding the keepers in place when reassembling.

David
 
Thanks David, the cam action is the one I thought would be easiest too. Found it for $16 on ebay. I also found the root source of what was causing my valvetrain noise at the shootout, so that was a positive.
 
The rockers were all tight, pushrods staight, no broken dog bones or retainers, no broken springs, lifters seemed good. But the once I loosened the rockers it was apparent that something with them was wrong. 10 of the 12 rockers take some force to be able to actually rock them back and forth and the others seemed normal. According to Dave the motor was overreved which led to valve bounce, and once this happens it hammers on the trunion bearings of the rockers and pops out the bearing cups just enough to cause them to turn hard. The rockers are still good and just need to push the bearing cups back in with a vise, and I should inspect the lifters for damage also (they are getting replaced). So at this point I plan to replace most of the valvetrain components.
 
The rockers were all tight, pushrods staight, no broken dog bones or retainers, no broken springs, lifters seemed good. But the once I loosened the rockers it was apparent that something with them was wrong. 10 of the 12 rockers take some force to be able to actually rock them back and forth and the others seemed normal. According to Dave the motor was overreved which led to valve bounce, and once this happens it hammers on the trunion bearings of the rockers and pops out the bearing cups just enough to cause them to turn hard. The rockers are still good and just need to push the bearing cups back in with a vise, and I should inspect the lifters for damage also (they are getting replaced). So at this point I plan to replace most of the valvetrain components.

Ryan,

Are you using the Yella Terra rockers like I've got or something else ?

David
 
I have Scorpion arms at this point, and will eventually upgrade to yella terras when the heads come off this motor eventually. I was told 6400 was all the current valve springs could handle, but rev limiter is set to 6800 and I know that I have hit it. I believe I am getting the beehive spring setup that your motor is currently running.
 
now i gotta loosen all mine up and check them.

What was your symptoms? Did the noise go away when it warmed up?
 
No real symptoms other then a loud clatter coming from the motor. It was loud enough you could hear it in the car, it was pretty evident if you remember it from the shootout.

The noise never went away, I even added some of the break in oil additive that has high amount of ZZDP??? it think.
 
What are the differences between Scorpion and Yella Terras? Are they just better construction or something more wizzy?
 
The rockers were all tight, pushrods staight, no broken dog bones or retainers, no broken springs, lifters seemed good. But the once I loosened the rockers it was apparent that something with them was wrong. 10 of the 12 rockers take some force to be able to actually rock them back and forth and the others seemed normal. According to Dave the motor was overreved which led to valve bounce, and once this happens it hammers on the trunion bearings of the rockers and pops out the bearing cups just enough to cause them to turn hard. The rockers are still good and just need to push the bearing cups back in with a vise, and I should inspect the lifters for damage also (they are getting replaced). So at this point I plan to replace most of the valvetrain components.

Ryan,make sure you inspect the Lobes on the CAM!!
 
I got the cam action compressor yesterday. Looks to be a nice easy tool, and if there is not enough clearance to use the cam handle you can replace the handle with the included bolt and use a wrench to compress the spring.
 
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