hard brake pedal no brake or abs lights on

quicktsi

Registered User
Over the weekend I started getting a hard brake pedal, with no abs or brake light. I have read a ton of stuff this evening. The brake and ABS lights do work, as they cycle on then off when you start the car, so I know they are working. I have tried replacing the brown relay, and that did not fix it. I checked the fuse by the battery. I also checked for power at the relay harness and it is getting power I have tried putting my hand on the accumulator and tried cycling the ignition with help, and it does not feel like it is working. Any suggestions?
 
Can you hear the pump motor running when you first turn the ignition switch to run.....

Check for power going to the pump motor.....

It is the cylindrical connector located on the side of the master cylinder....

A bad ignition switch can cause all sorts of electrical problems.....
 
I had a simular problem

Years ago my 90 had a hard brake pedel. i could hardly stop it. I don't remember about the ABS light being on or off. the quys at food replaced something behing the kick panel on the passenger side. Some sort of relay. the could have been lying about the location though. they might have just hooked up a brake out box there.
do you have a scematic of the wiring? I can probably send a copy if that helps.:(
 
Can you hear the pump motor running when you first turn the ignition switch to run.....

Check for power going to the pump motor.....

It is the cylindrical connector located on the side of the master cylinder....

A bad ignition switch can cause all sorts of electrical problems.....

I do not hear the pump motor running when I first turn the ignition switch to run.

I am going to check for power to the pump motor.
 
I did some more testing per Duffy Floyds web page.

1. I pressed the brake pedal 20 times, and then turned the key to run and did not hear the motor running.

2. I tried measuring voltage at the cylindrical connector. On the male pin side I measured no voltage. On the female side it measured .02 volts on the positive pins?

3. I checked the 10a fuse under the dash and it is good.

4. I tried jumping the #4 pin to ground and did not hear the motor run.

Now I need to check the ignition switch. Any other ideas? Wish it was easy enough to just say part X is bad.
 
I replaced the ignition switch, and it did not fix the problem. The original one was showing signs of separation.

What am I missing?
 
When I pulled the pressure switch harness and jumped 4 and 5 together it turned on the pump. Now I am trying to find a pressure switch.

Spent some time calling all of the local parts houses, and nobody could cross the ACDelco #25530882 part number. Has anybody found the pressure switch locally at their local auto parts store?
 
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Search for one for a Saab 900 or 9000

Not sure exactly what years....

Maybe 93 - 95

They used the exact same Tevees II units as our SCs....
 
I ordered the part online today. I am trying to get confirmation of when to expect the part. It was such a relief to hopefully finally figure out what was wrong.
 
abs pump

Ford still has the pressure switch they might have one in stock but they can get them in a few days not two weeks. the part number is E7SZ-2C244-A switch asy. kit
 
ive never had trouble with the pressure switch on mine the brushes were bad in the pump you could bump it with a broom handle and it would run . i got a pump from a lincoln at the junkyard

ralph
 
Unfortunately I believe I am done with this car. I received the new pressure switch. I went out and bought a 36mm socket, but forgot the part of needing to be thin wall. I went and bought the thin wall plumbing socket suggest in another thread. It would not budge the pressure switch at all and then deformed and just slipped around.

I then decided to take the approach of removing the whole assembly. I was then greeted with brake lines that would not come loose.

I then decided to try another approach I read in another thread. The next attempt was to remove the IC pipes. Even with the top one removed and the lower one pushed as far forward I still could not get the pressure switch to come loose.

I think it is time to take inventory and make a part out list.
 
That's aggravating. I can suggest that it's not that hard to fix from this point. You can remove the brake booster entirely without too much additional work. You have 4 nuts / studs and the pedal connection inside the car. A few wiring connections. And, obviously, the brake lines that are fighting you.

Now the lines are a little tricky ... If they won't turn off (mine wouldn't), then you have to cut them. If you cut them, you will have to reflare the lines at a straight spot and install a union. (Don't try simple compression fittings, that's not a good idea for brakes.) I actually went out and bought the expensive tool to do it with the lines still on the car ... it was a couple hundred bucks. But it was worth it for me. Maybe a local mechanic can do reconnect the lines for you after you finish? If you were in my area, I would help you do it.
 
Vise Grip makes a tool that works very well on these brake lines....

They will not round off the fittings....
 
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