arp head stud washers

Kevin Leitem

Registered User
My first set of arp head studs were for the SC engine. I recently decided to get new studs since mine were over 10 years old and the washers were very distorted. I always read on here that the Chevy v6 ones fit and were cheaper so I decided to buy them. When i received them I noticed that the washer had a much smaller outside diameter than the SC ones. The larger SC one is much more desirable and will help our already lift prone heads from lifting even more. Here is the part number from summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-200-8708/ I would highly recommend getting these instead of using the Chevy washers
 
Good to know. I'm surprised the washers you have were distorted, they seemed so beefy. Thanks for sharing.
 
Good to know. I'm surprised the washers you have wre distorted, they seemed so beefy. Thanks for sharing.

Last couple of times I had everything apart the washers had a little cup to them, all I did was turned them around and reassembled. This last time they had a pretty significant cup to them. So that kinda showed me that having a larger washer has to be better.
 
I'm not sure if anybody has a problem at 300hp or beyond with these stock pieces.

Getting around the big numbers....different story.

Paul
 
What is the current thinking on torque for head studs??

I seem to remember a final torque of 90ft/lbs with molly, being the latest number I've heard, but I'm not sure.
 
Little higher I think

What is the current thinking on torque for head studs??

I seem to remember a final torque of 90ft/lbs with molly, being the latest number I've heard, but I'm not sure.

When I did my last engine build Brian, I think Dave D.told me something like 120 ft/lbs for the final torque if using the ARP Studs, but I am not 100% positive on that. It is just what immediately comes to mind. He said the specs in the book aren't high enough for ARP Hardware. So I though he has to be right cause you might as well use the stock bolts then if staying at the same torque spec.????

I could be think about the bearing caps too, if using ARP hardware, but again, I just am not 100% positive.

Smitty
 
Last edited:
would check arp site . last time i looked, think it said 80 # w/ there lube. 90 # is about +10% over torque. prob not a good idea, as over torque will put bolt-stud past yield, and make it junk. dd can chime in on this.
p.s. arp has a lot of good info on this.
 
Chevy studs ? SC studs ?

OK
million dollar question is
do i get the Chevy studs
or the actual SC studs ?

if so do i need to grind chevy or sc studs ?
any complications ?
what is easier to do ?
cheaper well the chevy right
but will wasting less money make me have some future problems ?
i havent ordered my studs since im not sure which ones to get
id appreciate any help guys.
 
OK
million dollar question is
do i get the Chevy studs
or the actual SC studs ?

if so do i need to grind chevy or sc studs ?
any complications ?
what is easier to do ?
cheaper well the chevy right
but will wasting less money make me have some future problems ?
i havent ordered my studs since im not sure which ones to get
id appreciate any help guys.
1_ SC Or you can grind the washers of the exhaust manifold bolts, or use bolts with separate washers.
2_ No
3_ Chevy
4_ No
5_ Whichever anything is better than stock.:)
 
Last edited:
Arp

So SC the 153-4001 i dont have to grind washers off the exhaust manifolds right ?

and thanks for the help
 
thank you

Yes you would. If you get the chevy kit no grinding needed.

Got it Thank you very much
ill be using the Chevy kit then

only thing on this is they are a little shorter in length right ? so i have to make sure they go in all the way ?
 
Got it Thank you very much
ill be using the Chevy kit then

only thing on this is they are a little shorter in length right ? so i have to make sure they go in all the way ?

Yes the chevys are shorter which makes the top of the stud flush with the nut when torqued down. Make sure the threads are clean in the block and then hand tighten the studs into the block. Follow the instructions that were posted previously.:)
 
thank you

Yes the chevys are shorter which makes the top of the stud flush with the nut when torqued down. Make sure the threads are clean in the block and then hand tighten the studs into the block. Follow the instructions that were posted previously.:)

Got it will do :)
 
Back
Top