Axle Nut

L3130

Registered User
I'm in the process of ordering parts to replace the Rear wheel bearings. Can someone help answer the following?

1. Is the Axle nut multiple pieces? It looks to be made from multiple pieces with a sheet metal locking detail and the nut itself. When purchasing a new nut is it an assembly or do I need to order both the locking section and the nut? (see photo to see what I'm trying to explain)

2. To remove the nut does the locking detail need to be pried away first before removing the nut or can both pieces be removed at once?

3. What size socket is needed to remove the axle nut?

4. Can the hub be removed using a 2-jaw puller once the nut is removed? The reference material I have shows a special puller and suggests a 3-jaw puller can be used. I only have a 2-jaw puller.

5. Is a new hub often needed? I only ask as ordering parts takes a number of days and with my work schedule if I can get it done over the weekend it has to wait until the following.

6. Any other things to look out for? I've read some of the other posts about bearing replacement.

Thanks in advance for you help!
 

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I would have to check but I think a 35mm socket is what you need and no you do not pry that outer section off. Just use an impact with the 35mm deep well socket and it will come right off.
 
1. The axle nut is one piece.

2. The socket size for it is 36mm. I use a deep well. I believe a 35mm will work as well.

3. Hub removal is fairly simple.


A. While the car is still on the ground. Loosen the 5 lug nuts & the axle nut. Do not remove.

B. Jack up the rear end & support with jack stands.

C. Remove the tire.

D. Unbolt the 2 brake caliper bolts (13mm). Remove the caliper & position it out of the way.

E. Remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts (15mm) & remove the bracket. The rotor should now easily come off.

F. You should now be looking at the spindle. It has 2 large bolts on each end of it at the bottom & 1 at the top. You will need a 21mm wrench & an 18mm wrench. Remove all 3 nuts & bolts. Don't forget your penetrating oil & a breaker bar. They'll come in handy.

G. Now you just have to slide the spindle off of the rear axle half shaft. It can be stubborn, so be patient.

H. You need to take the spindle to a shop to have the bearing pressed out & the new one pressed in.

Hope that helps.
 
Thanks for the detailed response!

I'll have to see who has the 36mm deep socket locally and if I can find a shop with a press.

Thanks again for the quick response.
 
Rear hub nuts are not available form Oreilly 's. I just did a rear bearing two weeks ago and they can't/won't order them from Dorman anymore. Ford can still get them $17 each and must buy them a in pairs.

I reused my and put blue Loctite on the threads.

The Ford service manual says to use a puller to separate the Hub from the bearing--I was not able to do this. Had to get the Hub pressed out and the bearing pressed. Hub is pressed out toward the outside of the vehicle then remove snap ring from back side and press the bearing out toward the inside of the vehicle.
 
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Just a note - you CAN use the front axle / hub nuts on the back, but you're not supposed to use the rear ones on the front.

That helps a bit.

Keep the old ones and run them down as jam nuts over the new ones, for JustIn Case.

RwP
 
Progress update.

The hub was destroyed along with the bearing. It looks like a 1/16" was worn where it was rubbing against the bearing race (See photo). Found a local machine shop that installed the new bearing and hub for only $20. It's back together, but the axle nuts didn't arrive yet.

Bearing cost from NAPA: $41 (premium brand)
Hub from local Ford dealer: $89 (The hub comes with wheel studs.)

I'm going to do the other side even though there is no play in the wheel. Also plan on replacing the rear brakes while everything is apart.

On the damaged side the spindle assembly came off the half shaft without any extra effort. The good side required the use of a 2-arm puller. (I don't have the recommended 3-arm puller)

Regarding socket size... 36mm works, but is loose. A 35mm is the correct size. I bought a "axle socket kit" containing about 6 different size sockets, so I could check the various sizes for best fit. Correction: The 35mm was a perfect fit for the origninal spindle nuts but didn't work for the replacements. 36mm was needed for the new ones. The new nuts measured 35.44mm across the flats

All 6 spindle (3 each side) bolts were in very good shape without any corrosion on them. The corrosion resistant coating they used on the 94's works very well considering this is my daily transportation and contends with road salt in PA.

Thanks again for everyone's input/advice.
 

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ive never had trouble with rear axle bearings in 220 thousand miles but the right rear nut worked loose a time or two

ralph
 
The car is back on the road and everything is fine. Finished up between the rain showers yesterday.

The Axle nut size is a bit odd. If someone is purchasing a single socket for the job, I'd recommend buying the 36mm. On the original nuts a 35mm was a good fit and the 36mm was lose (but would work). On the replacement nuts from Ford the 35mm socket would not fit and a 36mm was needed. The replacements measured 35.44mm across the flats.

Retorqued the axle nuts after driving about 15 miles.

I've included photos of the Hub P/N and Axle Nut packaging in the event it is helpful to others.

Once again thanks for all the helpful info!
 

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