finally cut the #14

anlo

Registered User
got around to cutting 14 wire for constant fan. put a switch on it so i can return to orig config at the flick of a switch
my problem was at highway speeds guage would just climb i have a nice air dam attached. tried it all 180 therm no therm radiator clean and aluminium unplugged a/c compressor for manual control of fan but over 46mph fan cuts off. which doesnt help my highway speed issue.i believe the main issue is the aftermarket alum radiator just cant keep up with the needs.. " i know need a griffin" and " real guage" but for now seems to be fine with my new system.. just need to get a back up fan to have on hand..


the big question is should i tap the #14 at the eec to the #17 as has been suggested ? i dont see the high speed coming on with the low speed keeping things below the "n" but if i need to tap the 14 wire to the 17 for piece of mind i can very easily------------ any suggestions???
 
Usually on the highway temps will go lower. When they get higher its usually a clogged radiator. I'm wondering if perhaps something else is going on there.

I know its not the answer your looking for but even with a cheap radiator youde expect it to run well on the highway. At highway speeds a fan does little.
 
my problem was at highway speeds guage would just climb i have a nice air dam attached. tried it all 180 therm no therm radiator clean and aluminium unplugged

Even with old gunky radiators, my SC's would always cool back down when moving (or once the fan came on). When you say "nice air dam" - is that a good-condition factory one, or something else? Is your condenser in decent shape & clean?
 
Betting there is still air in the system. Personally, I drive around with the cap on, but not to the lock position and run it through a few heat cycles and it gets the air out. Or run a lever cap and just have the lever up while driving around. Doesn't usually take a lot of miles. Less than 20 I would say.
 
a 180 thermostat is probably what was causing it to overheat, drop a 192 or 195 back in it

cutting the wire isn't a fix its a band-aid, if you can't keep the engine cool chances are you have a faulty head gasket
 
fans

took a good ride today using my method fan always on and with outside temps according to the car was 89 nice and toasty. never got past the n regardless of speed ..maintained 70 for a bit still below the N at a long light still right at the N where i like it.. as i got closer to the house i put it back in normal mode letting computer handle it and sure nuff temp climbed up to just past the M even at a constant 60 mph. which wouldnt let the fan come on anyway.. when sitting under normal mode fan will come on just after the M momentarily and go off just to repeat the cycle too psycologically stressful. if the cut 14 wire with a switch poses no other threat than wearing out the fan prematurely i can deal with it.. just nuts my 90 is totally opposite hardly ever sees the N and thats with stock rad. and tiny seeping pin hole on top.
that dis spells the theory that fan running during highway speed wont help , with out it temp will climb and hang around the M...
my air dam i created about three inches tall attached in a way that nothing but air flow can reach rad. the condenser looks fine i dont use a/c what are some other issues involving the condensor i should be aware of ???? when i got home i popped the vent on radiator cap and no air or water release and hose wasnt tight/under pressure... so i believe ive cycled all the air from the system..probably do need to throw a therno. back in that seems to be a non negotiable with you guys.... thanks for any comments i think im in the same boat as " my white 89 " just aggravating....
 
took a good ride today using my method fan always on and with outside temps according to the car was 89 nice and toasty. never got past the n regardless of speed ..maintained 70 for a bit still below the N at a long light still right at the N where i like it.. as i got closer to the house i put it back in normal mode letting computer handle it and sure nuff temp climbed up to just past the M even at a constant 60 mph. which wouldnt let the fan come on anyway.. when sitting under normal mode fan will come on just after the M momentarily and go off just to repeat the cycle too psycologically stressful. if the cut 14 wire with a switch poses no other threat than wearing out the fan prematurely i can deal with it.. just nuts my 90 is totally opposite hardly ever sees the N and thats with stock rad. and tiny seeping pin hole on top.
that dis spells the theory that fan running during highway speed wont help , with out it temp will climb and hang around the M...
my air dam i created about three inches tall attached in a way that nothing but air flow can reach rad. the condenser looks fine i dont use a/c what are some other issues involving the condensor i should be aware of ???? when i got home i popped the vent on radiator cap and no air or water release and hose wasnt tight/under pressure... so i believe ive cycled all the air from the system..probably do need to throw a therno. back in that seems to be a non negotiable with you guys.... thanks for any comments i think im in the same boat as " my white 89 " just aggravating....

It just doesnt make sense. unless something is blocking flow to you rradiator such as a clogged condensor or your custom airdam. Seriously.
 
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a 180 thermostat is probably what was causing it to overheat, drop a 192 or 195 back in it

cutting the wire isn't a fix its a band-aid, if you can't keep the engine cool chances are you have a faulty head gasket

+1 Cutting the wire is just a bad idea. I'm also of the opinion that a 180°F thermostat is a bad idea, unless you can change the fan settings (aka QH or other chip)

system..probably do need to throw a therno. back in that seems to be a non negotiable with you guys

Are you saying that there is NO thermostat in right now?! If so, that's your problem! It's so easy to heat soak these small radiators, which is why the 180°F thermostat is bad if the fan is not running until 215°F-ish (approximate stock turn-on setting) Without a thermostat at all, the coolant won't have enough time in the radiator to cool down much at all.
 
yes

i understand the concept of the thermo but i dont see how the thermo could ever close once up to temp would seem to always be above 180 195 therefore a thermo seems like an obstruction rather than a useful component with my situation i could be way off and probably am just trying to figure it out. gonna throw in a stock hp thermo asap but not believing it will help my situation.. thanks for the comments guys
 
i understand the concept of the thermo but i dont see how the thermo could ever close once up to temp would seem to always be above 180 195 therefore a thermo seems like an obstruction rather than a useful component with my situation i could be way off and probably am just trying to figure it out. gonna throw in a stock hp thermo asap but not believing it will help my situation.. thanks for the comments guys

Although some disagree coolant flowing to fast through a radiator (no thermostat) can potentially run hotter at high RPM's. Thats what they make restrictor plates for. Get a high flow thermostat and see if it helps any. You do have a cooler on your rad which in combination with a clogged condenser would also hurt cooling performance.

Bottomline though is the fan shouldnt have to be on when on highway. SOmething has to be up
 
if your getting hot on the highway at steady cruise with no thermo you have a head gasket issue no if ands or buts about it

the stock fan settings turn the fan on at 218, thats ideal to keep heat in the engine, an engine is most efficient when its warm, heat makes power, also improves fuel economy

you might as well factor in head gaskets because its just a matter of time, mark my words
 
I gutted out the themostat & put a 5/8 s.s.

WASHER IN THE CENTER IT SLOWS THE FLOW & keeps the motor cool ....RUN A DI/C WITH A 8 IN FAN ALSO CUT 14 WIRE RUN A SWITCH AS WELL:cool:
 
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