Pulling locked motor

Surgin

Registered User
I had time today and got the motor stripped down, exhaust diso, starter out, and loosened the bolts holding the transmission (auto) to the motor, and cannot rotate the motor.

It was hydro-locked by the previous owner, but was told it did spin... Nope.

I can see one bolt for the torque converter, but no way to get to the other bolts.

So at this point, do I have to pull them together? I wanted to pull the motor by itself this time.

Is there some tricks/tips to getting this apart, either in the car or on the ground? I am not in a hurry, so I figured I would get as much info as possible.

I did search, but this does not seem to be covered.

Thanks,

Justin
 
If your not concerned with damaging the transmission input seal, just leave the converter bolted to the flexplate and it will slide out of the transmission, when the motor is separated from the bell housing.

David
 
My first SC was hydro locked....we removed all the spark plugs and turned it over by hand. Cleared the water...turned the key and it spun right up. I figured, if it didnt work, I was already looking at damage anyways at that point so we gave it a try. guess we got pretty lucky. Drove it around for the next 2 years or so with no issues.
 
If your not concerned with damaging the transmission input seal, just leave the converter bolted to the flexplate and it will slide out of the transmission, when the motor is separated from the bell housing.

David

I am kinda concerned about damaging the transmission, I dont want to eat anymore expenses on this car. How hard is it to change the front seal?

This is my first time working on a ford slush box, I did swap a sunshell on a 4L60E but it was pretty straight forward.

How deep were the factory transmission pans, at least for a 95? I will post pics, but the one on it now is about 3 inches deep and has a notch coming down the middle. Just wondering.

Justin
 
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