Rear Sub Frame

G

Goldeneagle

Registered User
I need to know if the rear sub frame out of a LX bird, and the sub frame in a SC will bolt up to the same car. Now I talked to the parts people at ford, he told me that the LX bird, from 89 to 97 and 93 up to 97 on the Mark VIII sub frames had the same part number, but the SC sub frame had a different part number. He said that on paper they looked the same, but it "IS" a different part number. So, to the question. If I take out the four bolts that holds the frame and all that is attached to it (LCA, pumpkin, and so on) can I slide in a 97 sub frame with all parts attached, up in its place, and bolt it in, or is the four bolts that holds the frame to the car in a different pattern?

I'm working on a 92 SC and want to install a 97
 
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rzimmerl said:
It will bolt in but the question is why?
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Well, my 92 SC rear end needs extensive reworking and I can get a complete 97 Mark VIII with 42K, sub frame and everything that is attached for $300.00. If I can swap them out I can then work on the SC parts and still move the car around. Now I know I'll need the perches for the Mark LCA's and I have chatted with DFL about this. That is the why, so is there anything else that I might need to know?


Thanks.


.
 
Its possible the only difference could be in the bushings/insulators themselves.


- Dan
 
Plat0ribs said:
Low cost, low grief IRS swap for the win!

As long as you're not in the rustbelt!:rolleyes:
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Unfortunately I live in the south part of RUSTVILLE and it needs other work as well, but that's why I come to the boards, to find parts. I well rarely ever sell anything but I buy and read the boards for info and try to get input from those of you that are by far smarter than I. :eek:


And thanks for the input, and anyone else that can help me out with this project, PLEASE chime in.

Thanks once more.:)
 
Goldeneagle said:
Well, my 92 SC rear end needs extensive reworking and I can get a complete 97 Mark VIII with 42K, sub frame and everything that is attached for $300.00. If I can swap them out I can then work on the SC parts and still move the car around. Now I know I'll need the perches for the Mark LCA's and I have chatted with DFL about this. That is the why, so is there anything else that I might need to know?


Thanks.


.
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It bolts right in and you dont need perches the springs sit right in place and wont move especially for what you are going to do with it mine has an entire mark 8 rear sub with all the components I just put the true trac in th aluminum housing and I am having the one piece aluminum drive shaft cut down and reballanced to fit next week. From my experiance if you change the rear end in one of these cars you have to re balance the drive shaft if you dont want harmonic chasis vibration. Also dont forget the brake calipers bolt right in and your wheel speed sensors that mount to the dif
 
davec73 said:
It bolts right in and you dont need perches the springs sit right in place and wont move especially for what you are going to do with it mine has an entire mark 8 rear sub with all the components I just put the true trac in th aluminum housing and I am having the one piece aluminum drive shaft cut down and reballanced to fit next week. From my experiance if you change the rear end in one of these cars you have to re balance the drive shaft if you dont want harmonic chasis vibration. Also dont forget the brake calipers bolt right in and your wheel speed sensors that mount to the dif
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You wouldn't happen to have another one of those drive shafts laying around, would ya?



Oh yeah, thanks for the reply. :)





.
 
Plat0ribs said:
Dave,
I'd like you to find me an IRS out of a Mark... preferrably one with all new bushings n stuff...

LMK when you're ready and I'll come down for the install when it's conveninet for you... lol!

Chris
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You kid but you know I happen to know where one is as we speak!
 
Goldeneagle said:
You wouldn't happen to have another one of those drive shafts laying around, would ya?



Oh yeah, thanks for the reply. :)

No problem If you need any help with it just pm me and I will give you my #. The drive shaft I have is the one piece aluminum mark 8 and it was only made in one year of mark 8. I will post pics of it when I bring it back from the driveline shop. I also forgot to tell you to make sure you have a rubber or poly isolater between the aluminum a arms and the coil but thats all you need my car sits perfect and was fairly easy to align from what my alignment guy told me.
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davec73 said:
I also forgot to tell you to make sure you have a rubber or poly isolater between the aluminum a arms and the coil but thats all you need my car sits perfect and was fairly easy to align from what my alignment guy told me.
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Do you mean these?

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=61709

Is this what you are referring to when you wrote?
davec73 said:
I also forgot to tell you to make sure you have a rubber or poly idolater between the aluminum a arms and the coil.
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Just want to make sure. I've been told that with out a 2" perch riser Spring Isolator, it will drop the car 2" and I already have a 1.5" drop? I'm not looking to drop the car any farther.

A Little input would be helpful.

Thank you for any help here. :)
 
Yep and as every one else has said if your gonna put it in I would put the true trac out of your rear end in it and be done with it. Its a good upgrade
 
davec73 said:
Yep and as every one else has said if your gonna put it in I would put the true trac out of your rear end in it and be done with it. Its a good upgrade
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Okay, so I yank my SC rear sub frame out, put in the Mark 8 rear end sub frame in and put the Spring Isolators in, pull my Cobra pumpkin (put it in its place on my Mark 8 pumpkin),and I'm good to go? just want to be sure.

Can anybody tell me if they are the right ones?

Thanks for the input. :)
 
Those are the right isolators. Doing the same thing to my car right now so I can start with the motor install.
 
Goldeneagle said:
Okay, so I yank my SC rear sub frame out, put in the Mark 8 rear end sub frame in and put the Spring Isolators in, pull my Cobra pumpkin (put it in its place on my Mark 8 pumpkin),and I'm good to go? just want to be sure.

Can anybody tell me if they are the right ones?

Thanks for the input. :)
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Yes that is what you do but I would put the cobra rear end in it first and also you can probably count on one of the 4 bolts that hold the subframe in snapping or breaking th threaded plates loose from the body of the car, if that happens get in toch and I will tell you what to do
 
davec73 said:
you can probably count on one of the 4 bolts that hold the subframe in snapping or breaking the threaded plates loose from the body of the car, if that happens get in torch and I will tell you what to do
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Does this procedure involve up to date insurance and a few gallons of petrol?
Or can ya give me the inside skinny now, knowing its gonna happen?
Also, what is the socket size for the nut on the hubs, (to pull the half shafts) I was told 28mm, is this correct?

Thanks for the help people, all input is appreciated :)
 
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