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Tony8470
05-04-2012, 09:36 AM
I "engineered" and installed my FMIC shroud the other day and thought I would share my results. I started with some aluminum sheet metal, maybe 1/8" thick, whatever gauge that is. Mostly because it was easy to cut and is rigid. I only had a 25"x25" piece to work with, and that pretty much was what I needed.

I haven't been happy with the cooling capacity, and with the only definitive option being a Griffin rad I thought I would see how this fared. The car would get hot on the way home from Carlisle heading west on the turnpike with 4 people climbing the many hills. At one point I thought I might have to pull over. That and the fan runs constantly.

Heres what I got. 3 pieces, one on each side and a bracket for the bottom.

Specs:
Bottom bracket:
30" length
2" height
2 3/4" width, angled air dam
20" length angled air dam
3/4" mounting surface
1 1/2" square, bolt flange

This one I had to tweak a few times, mostly because the radiator/FMIC combo was very heavy to pull in and out. I threw my back out one time pulling it a few years back. I did my best to reduce the amount of times I had to do so.

I mounted it inside the track for the A/C condenser. The space between the tabs is 3/4". It's a pretty steep angle on the air dam, and I didn't whip out my protractor for it, so I added pictures to get an idea. Maybe 40 degrees. I added the stainless angled portion after I found the original measurements weren't high enough. It worked out better that way, as I added some of that rubber door stripping to it and had it flush against the FMIC. I had to cut some of it out to accomodate the FMIC outlet. That"s really the only hole for air to pass through. The angled portion is 6" from the passenger edge and 4" from the driver edge. So it's offset.

Tony8470
05-04-2012, 09:50 AM
Driver side:
16" Height
5 3/4" width
1/2" top mounting surface
3 1/2" bottom mounting surface (not sure of the angle on that)
Mounting bolt holes:
1" from outer edge
5" distance apart
2 3/8" bottom hole distance from bottom

The square was the last cut I made out of the project. This was to get around the mounting peg. I forgot to get that measurement! The rectangular portion is to get around the bottom bracket. There are 2 holes I drilled that aren't needed. That's why there are 4 total. My car is an 89', and there were 2 holes I found near the bottom that I used to mount the driver shroud.

The width is from the face of the radiator support to the rear face of the FMIC. There is a 1/2" tab I bent to add some strength. I had to bend it a little away from the FMIC because I can hear rubbing in the car while running.

Tony8470
05-04-2012, 10:08 AM
Passenger side:
16" height
5 3/4" width
3 5/8" top mounting surface
1/2" bottom mounting surface

The mounting holes for this were easy to get to. There was a welded on tab that I used some bodywork bolts on. And a few holes around it. This is all on the radiator support of course.

I took it for a few miles when it was 70 degrees the other day. The car maintained temp. I think the true benefit so far is that when coasting, it will go down in temp, whereas before it would go uneffected. I don't think this will solve my problem, but will reduce the time the fan is running.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l317/tony8470/IMG_0140.jpg
That second picture below is the driver side shroud. oops

DrFishbone
05-04-2012, 11:03 AM
Nice looking work, Tony. :cool:

If the new shrouds / directors you made fit up to the IC well, it should be very helpful. I haven't looked at an MP FMIC closely, but with my setup, the shroud I made seemed to help a noteable amount because of blocking alot of otherwise open space around the radiator. Between the shrouds / director / thermostat / fan settings on my car, it never gets above 190 on the while in motion. I know the MP FMIC completely blocks the radiator... I've got it a little bit easier I guess. ;)