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XR7
05-08-2012, 09:29 PM
I have no electrical power the car at all.

I was going to pull it out of the garage for pictures to post for sale and it is completely dead.

Putting a Charger on the battery told me it was fully charged

Multimeter says battery has 12.77 volts

Can anyone tell what the issue may be?


I was going to search for this, but the search function does not seem to be working

Karl

the-big-e
05-08-2012, 10:46 PM
Are your battery terminals and cable ends nice and clean......

XR7
05-08-2012, 11:40 PM
Are your battery terminals and cable ends nice and clean......

Yes, Very clean...

90sc35thann
05-09-2012, 05:51 AM
Ircm or ignition switch?

renello79
05-09-2012, 07:23 AM
Negative cable where it grounds on the motor mount. Mine crumbled when I did the mount

XR7
05-09-2012, 10:50 AM
Ircm or ignition switch?

Wow, I would have never guessed this on a car that hardly ever gets driven.

I think I read some posts a few years back on how to check these.. I will have to try to search them.

Was this a guess?, or are you stating this as fact?

90sc35thann
05-09-2012, 11:48 AM
Just a guess.

RalphP
05-09-2012, 12:05 PM
Let's start with the basics.

When you say "No power", you mean it's like the battery is disconnected? Or what? ("No electrical power" has been used to describe everything from the battery's dead to the car's on fire and rolling down the road at 100 MPH ... )

If it's like the battery is disconnected, then it's time to grab the voltmeter and start checking.

What's the voltage across the battery posts?

What's the voltage from the positive battery post to the motor block?

What's the voltage from the positive battery post to the body?

What's the voltage from the negative battery post to where the positive post hits the starter solenoid?

With the ignition off, what voltage do you have at the ignition switch's ALWAYS ON connector (Use your EVTM to trace that. You DO have an EVTM, right? If not, eBay or Helm Inc. would be where I'd grab one)

Now turn the ignition on, and prodding the back side of the connector, do you have power to the ACC/RUN pins?

In other words, walk the circuit and see where it stops.

THAT said - I'd bet on ignition switch myself.

RwP

XR7
05-09-2012, 12:35 PM
Let's start with the basics.

When you say "No power", you mean it's like the battery is disconnected? Or what? ("No electrical power" has been used to describe everything from the battery's dead to the car's on fire and rolling down the road at 100 MPH ... )

If it's like the battery is disconnected, then it's time to grab the voltmeter and start checking.

What's the voltage across the battery posts?

What's the voltage from the positive battery post to the motor block?

What's the voltage from the positive battery post to the body?

What's the voltage from the negative battery post to where the positive post hits the starter solenoid?

With the ignition off, what voltage do you have at the ignition switch's ALWAYS ON connector (Use your EVTM to trace that. You DO have an EVTM, right? If not, eBay or Helm Inc. would be where I'd grab one)

Now turn the ignition on, and prodding the back side of the connector, do you have power to the ACC/RUN pins?

In other words, walk the circuit and see where it stops.

THAT said - I'd bet on ignition switch myself.

RwP

Thank You Sir for the very detailed instructions, I will see if I can get the time to look at these steps tonite.

As for no power, You were correct when you asked as if the battery were disconnected. This is what I have

The battery is connected and I am reading 12.77 volts accross the posts.

I will try tracing down the others you mentioned, and I do have a EVTM..

Karl

DrFishbone
05-09-2012, 01:11 PM
There are plenty of circuits that should still work without the ignition switch even installed - for instance, the interior courtesy lamps. If even those do not work, it would have to be a problem even before the ignition switch - which I think you should be able to find with Ralph's step-by-step.

Also, don't assume that the battery is good just by a voltage test. As a matter of fact, I would start by taking the battery out and trying it in another car, or having it tested somewhere (although, even the parts store's testers don't always reveal a bad battery).

You'll figure it out soon enough. :)

XR7
05-09-2012, 02:45 PM
There are plenty of circuits that should still work without the ignition switch even installed - for instance, the interior courtesy lamps. If even those do not work, it would have to be a problem even before the ignition switch - which I think you should be able to find with Ralph's step-by-step.

Also, don't assume that the battery is good just by a voltage test. As a matter of fact, I would start by taking the battery out and trying it in another car, or having it tested somewhere (although, even the parts store's testers don't always reveal a bad battery).

You'll figure it out soon enough. :)

Thanks Sir, Agreed with what you stated.

The battery is Brand New only a few months old.. so for the moment I will assume it is good with out taking it out of the car..

After I run though Ralph's steps, and I still can't find it, then I will take the battery out of the car.

I am leaning towards a bad corroded connection, most likely ground that is causing this problem, which I will find out very quickly given Ralphs suggestions..

When I get home this eve, and do some quick checks, I will let you know what I found.

Again Thanks for you input DrFishbone <--- very interesting name by the way.. hehehe

XR7
05-10-2012, 11:12 AM
There are plenty of circuits that should still work without the ignition switch even installed - for instance, the interior courtesy lamps. If even those do not work, it would have to be a problem even before the ignition switch - which I think you should be able to find with Ralph's step-by-step.

Also, don't assume that the battery is good just by a voltage test. As a matter of fact, I would start by taking the battery out and trying it in another car, or having it tested somewhere (although, even the parts store's testers don't always reveal a bad battery).

You'll figure it out soon enough. :)

Mr. DrFishbone, you are the best...

Yeah it's the battery... I read the fluke wrong the other night...

Strangely the Charger said it was charged, and the Fluke actually read 1.277 volts not the 12.77 volts I initially thought...

So being it was a brand new battery, I have to hunt for the receipt and get it replaced, and then try again...

Thanks a bunch every one for your help

Oh, and Ralph, your list of troubleshooting all yield'd what I should have gotten being I only had 1.277 volts..

Karl