Brake-antilock problem

cary Jackson

SCCoA Member
Yellow light came on, red light came on, and both stayed on. Brake pedal is hard, and it seems like the rear brakes are not doing anything. There was the usual rust on the rear rotors from rain, and when i drove it around to the garage, the rust was still there. I have not been into the system, and the fluid is at the level it should be. What's the deal? >no no not the accumulator!
 
Hard Petal

I'm in the same position now man, and I was told by a couple guys who work at a local Ford dealership, who I trust very much, that there is a hydrolic pump within our master cylinder/brake booster assembly that begins to malfunction. Makin it needed to replace the entire unit. They may be wrong, but it is TWO separate opinions and they've not been wrong before! *they never agreed before either* Let me know if that helps!
 
Awww jeeezee.. Stop before the shop guys liberate excess $$ from your wallet. From both of your descriptions, sounds like your ABS pump relay (a $30 part) may have gone out. Turn key on without starting the engine and listen for the pump running. If it isn't, you can check the the relay or just replace it. The P/N is under the parts # board on this web site. It located on the passengerside firewall underneath the wire bundles an test connectors.

And also, the accumulator is a simple item to replace, if it turns out to be the problem.
 
In Responce

These particlar Ford guy would not be doing the work...I would personally so they really have nothing to gain monetarily from the situation. Secondly, we tried the accumulator and that wasn't MY problem. I tend to believe the fellas cuz now I get a leak when the ABS is activated. Again that's MY problem and I was adding that insight.

ALSO... when you turn the ignition without starting that car...it's actually the FUEL pump you hear engage! :D
 
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Yes, its true the fuel pump momentarily cycles when the key is turned on, however, you should hear a slight buzzing by the brake master cylinder indicating that the hydraulic pump is charging the accumulator. That is why the Brake and Antilock lights are on, until sufficient brake pressure is developed in the system. Once this happens, the lights should shut off and the pump should quit. If you leave the engine off, and pump the brake pedal a few times, you should hear the pump cycle on and off again. If you don't, the ABS pump relay could be stuck open. Try taking the fat end of a screwdriver and tapping on the brown pump relay located on the passenger side firewall. There should be two relays there. If the pump comes on, BINGO. If it doesn't, the pump may be at fault, or the relay is totally shot. Either way, the relay is a lot cheaper than a new brake booster.
 
I had the same thing happen...

I guess first you should replace the relatively inexpensive parts - the relay. My ABS unit was not functioning at all, so first the relay was replaced, that did not help the situation. Then I replaced the accumulator (if the pump is running, but the accumulator cannot hold the pressure, both lights are on). Unfortunately that did not fix the problem, because by the time the accumulator was replaced the pump went south as well. Finally everything was well after the replacement of the ABS unit. Off course, your only option (unless you're high on loot) is to replace the unit with a used one, as I did.
Good luck,
Stas.
 
Take your entire unit off and send it to Prior Remanufactoring in Garland Tx. They will rebuild it with a new accumulator, overhaul the pump, and rework everything else. Cost was approx. $400.

Two weeks to the day I shipped mine to them, it was returned. Very nice looking and most importantly, it now works.
 
Info for Prior Remanufacturing:
315 International
Garland, TX 75042

972-494-4254

89 SC P/N 4600124

$403.95

Thanks for the lead Tripntx

89 BLK SC TX
 
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