Back in the SC yayy, then boom, nayy :(

89tird

89tird

Registered User
So I did the tranny, converted to non abs, car sat for months with no plate, got a plate, drove it for 2 days and was loving it. Two days ago car had problems starting, reset the wire at the starter and it started. Drove it for 15 miles coming home made a left and:) boom backfire, stutter and turned off. Cranked it a bunch of times and nothing, checked inertia switch it was Good reset and nothing, no fuel at fuel rail, swapped fuel relay nothing. Upshift light stays on while cranking, replaced crank sensor no help, put a gallon of fresh 93 still nothing, just cranks and cranks. Also checked the balancer bolt and still in there.

Had it towed home, btw this is a 90sc

Ive been away from the SC for a while, anything I missed?
 
I am guessing that, when you made the turn, some wires either touched something and shorted out, or a connector popped loose.
 
Before I replaced the crank sensor, checked the gap and it was off, adjusted and nothing.

these cars have so many sensors that one migut have gotten loose but no fuel pressure at all, which sensor?
 
????? sounds like a fuel pump to me the backfire was prob from it leaning out when the car ran out of fuel? turned the key and listend for the pump? you need to have somone get down by the tank and listen to be sure!
 
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Never ran out of fuel, cant hear pump from drivers seat but then again its not a whiney walbro, going to have my friend turn the key while I listen. Yes the upshift is still on the dash, thanks for the help guys.
 
I'd have to agree that it might be the fuel pump. Didn't you say there was no pressure at the rails? If the pump IS working then a clogged fuel filter? Just suggestions.
 
Michael Mattix said:
I'd have to agree that it might be the fuel pump. Didn't you say there was no pressure at the rails? If the pump IS working then a clogged fuel filter? Just suggestions.
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Agreed. That's why I asked if he could hear the pump cycle. This car sat for a few months then it could have some slop in the tank. The sock filter could be gummed up or the inline filter as well. My next recommendation would be to disconnect the fuel filter and turn the key on and see if you are getting good flow to the filter.
 
Look closer at your HB. The bolt doesn't always break when it fails, but it is likely that the outer ring is spinning on the hub.

Your constant upshift light, no-start condition, and backfire would be all be explained by this.
 
DrFishbone said:
Look closer at your HB. The bolt doesn't always break when it fails, but it is likely that the outer ring is spinning on the hub.

Your constant upshift light, no-start condition, and backfire would be all be explained by this.
Click to expand...

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This would be what I have experienced twice.^^^^

Listen to the Doctor.
 
So i went out And unplugged The lines from The fuel filter, barely any fuel came out, turned The Key And still no fuel with lines disconnected. Jumped The pump to come on. It works And i got fuel at The shrader, however when i put The relay back no fuel no pump, i tried with a different relay still didnt work. Im thinking igntion switch??

The engine has 16k miles On it, The hb was repaced along with it, thats why i think it should still be Good.

By The way sorry for The random capitalized words my cell phone is acting up.
 
I would pull the pump and put a 255 lph in with a direct wire kit from painless wiring and be done with it. you need to do that anyway if you ever mod it.
 
The fuel pump runs when the fuel pump relay is bypassed, so the pump looks okay for now.

Let me check the EVTM ...

Ok, first thing to check is this. With the key ON, is there +12V at one side of the inertia switch connector?

If there is +12V there, but the fuel pump does not run, then the EEC is not grounding the fuel pump relay control circuit. Either it's telling you something, or there's a fault there.

If there is no +12V at the inertia switch, then...

Turn the key ON and check for +12V at the fat Red wire at one of the corners of the IRCM connector. Leave it plugged in and use a long straight pin to backprobe the connector.

If +12V is on the Red wire, but does not reach the inertia switch, then you have a loose or cut wire between the two.

If +12V is not showing up on the Red wire, then check for +12V at the fat Yellow wire on the opposite wall of the connector. The Yellow wire should have +12V at all times.

If +12V is not showing up on the Yellow wire, then check the 30A EEC fuse and wiring.

If +12V is on the Yellow wire, but not the Red wire, then check for +12V at the control side of the EEC relay. This should be a Red / Light Green wire running into the IRCM connector. (This is an odd one, where both ends of the control circuit get +12V, but a voltage inverter inside the IRCM converts one half to -12V.) Anyway, if both the Yellow and the Red / Light Green wires have +12V, then the EEC relay inside the IRCM should be switching. If you still get no +12V at the fat Red wire, then you need to test the EEC relay itself. Pull out the IRCM, then drill out the rivets in the corners. Find the EEC relay inside and touch a 9V battery across the control terminals and see if it clicks.

If it clicks, then it suggests that the voltage inverter might be bad instead. I don't know much about that thing, but I guess you can replace it with some basic soldering skills.

If the relay does not click when 9V is applied, then you need to replace it. You could pay $100+ for a rebuilt IRCM, or just buy a $10 relay and solder it in.

Now, if you do not get +12V at the Red / Light Green wire, then you need to check the 30A ignition fuse.

If the fuse is okay, then check for +12V at the feed to the fuse.

If the feed to the ignition fuse does not provide +12V when the key is ON, then the problem is in the ignition switch or wiring.

...

Wow, I just spent a really long time on that. See what you made me do? LOL. :rolleyes:
 
I agree with mr. Fishbone. Need check/fix ignition problem first. Put a timing light on it and see if ignition is working and in time. Would also show if anything is wrong internally.
Mark
 
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S_Mazza said:
The fuel pump runs when the fuel pump relay is bypassed, so the pump looks okay for now.

Let me check the EVTM ...

Ok, first thing to check is this. With the key ON, is there +12V at one side of the inertia switch connector?

If there is +12V there, but the fuel pump does not run, then the EEC is not grounding the fuel pump relay control circuit. Either it's telling you something, or there's a fault there.

If there is no +12V at the inertia switch, then...

Turn the key ON and check for +12V at the fat Red wire at one of the corners of the IRCM connector. Leave it plugged in and use a long straight pin to backprobe the connector.

If +12V is on the Red wire, but does not reach the inertia switch, then you have a loose or cut wire between the two.

If +12V is not showing up on the Red wire, then check for +12V at the fat Yellow wire on the opposite wall of the connector. The Yellow wire should have +12V at all times.

I f +12V is not showing up on the Yellow wire, then check the 30A EEC fuse and wiring.

If +12V is on the Yellow wire, but not the Red wire, then check for +12V at the control side of the EEC relay. This should be a Red / Light Green wire running into the IRCM connector. (This is an odd one, where both ends of the control circuit get +12V, but a voltage inverter inside the IRCM converts one half to -12V.) Anyway, if both the Yellow and the Red / Light Green wires have +12V, then the EEC relay inside the IRCM should be switching. If you still get no +12V at the fat Red wire, then you need to test the EEC relay itself. Pull out the IRCM, then drill out the rivets in the corners. Find the EEC relay inside and touch a 9V battery across the control terminals and see if it clicks.

If it clicks, then it suggests that the voltage inverter might be bad instead. I don't know much about that thing, but I guess you can replace it with some basic soldering skills.

If the relay does not click when 9V is applied, then you need to replace it. You could pay $100+ for a rebuilt IRCM, or just buy a $10 relay and solder it in.

Now, if you do not get +12V at the Red / Light Green wire, then you need to check the 30A ignition fuse.

If the fuse is okay, then check for +12V at the feed to the fuse.

If the feed to the ignition fuse does not provide +12V when the key is ON, then the problem is in the ignition switch or wiring.
,
. ..

Wow, I just spent a really long time on that. See what you made me do? LOL. :rolleyes:[/ QUOTE]

Lol wow thanks Man. I really appreciate it, you have always helped me out, im going to Check those measurements tomorrow.
Click to expand...
 
Wow I feel dumb, I overlooked the small stuff, it was the ignition fuse under hood, now that I think back the tranny shop found this fuse blown and car didnt start,something is blowing it. I only noticed because there was a 40 amp in there. So after thr car was idleing for 20 min the low press A/C line blew dumping all the fresh freon :(, it never ends with these cars.

I wanna thank all you guys who took the time to
IMAG1394.jpg
help me out.
 
Well, at least it's running. :rolleyes:

Glad you found it. But now you have put a bug in my ear about what could be blowing your Ignition fuse. Ah well, maybe tomorrow. :p

Lost your freon - yikes! Was it just the o-rings that let go?
 
S_Mazza said:
Well, at least it's running. :rolleyes:

Glad you found it. But now you have put a bug in my ear about what could be blowing your Ignition fuse. Ah well, maybe tomorrow. :p

Lost your freon - yikes! Was it just the o-rings that let go?
Click to expand...

Lol, could be o rings, I dont know, I took a sniff of the freon trying to find the leak and it was enough for me to walk away for the day.:D
 
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