solid motor mounts

Wicked SC

Registered User
For anyone who has bought the solid mounts from mn12performance.com or supercoupeperformance.com, can you please let me know what brand the mounts are? Or can you post some part numbers (for any brand)? Thank you.
 
I love my solid mounts from Car Quest. They were the cheapest in my town, and are good quality. I paid 149.50 for both, with taxes. (Canadian) There does not seem to be any more any vibration with these over the stock fluid filled jobs, which will never hold up my 3.8 S/C again. What a silly idea those were!

NOTE: You need to reuse your original brackets, you only get the rubber insert.
Part #31-3503

ALSO: Take it to a very competent S/C mechanic. This job is not for the faint of heart, or ill tempered. If you go to a good mechanic, it will cost you less in labour if you know what you are doing.

TIPS: Loosen the windshield lower cowls, as you will need to jack the motor up quite a bit. Use a 2X4 wood on your jack and lift on the oil pan so you don't damage it.

Be careful on the pass side. There is a two piece knock sensor screwed into the block, with a heat shield on it. You can remove the sensor using a deep socket, while leaving the insert in the block as not to loose all of your coolant. The sheild can be bent up and out of the way to make room, then bend it back afterwards. The knock sensor goes back in dry. Do not put any sealant ot locktite on it.
Drivers side: Mark the steering shaft rag joint for realignment, then take it apart, it will slide up into the firewall quite a distance. This gets you a fair bit of room on the drivers side.
 
I got mine from supercoupeperformance, but they are in the car so I can't get numbers, sorry.

My car is an 89 auto so other years may be different. I also had my radiator out and IC tubes off while doing the job.

The easiest way to do it is to remove the accessory bracket for the side you are working on.

Car on jackstands, engine lifted with a block under the oil pan - be very careful not to crush anything between the cowl and engine.
With the bracket off on the side your working on, you can get the new mount in place pretty easily. Don't worry about getting the old one out, it comes out in two peices.

The job is about 3 hours per side.
 
Right on! Thanks, guys - I'll just go ahead and get mine from CarQuest. I just got prices on them, and since I know some people at the store, I can get them pretty cheap. I'll probably install them either this weekend or the next. One quick question, though: Did you guys have to remove the exhaust to replace the motor mounts? I read previous posts on this, and most people recommend to do it. The problem is they say to remove the "front of the exhaust." Does that mean removing the exhaust manifold from the heads? If so, I'd be OK replacing the gaskets and studs, right?
 
No...the manifolds can stay on the heads. Remove the four rubber exhaust hangers on the back half and undo the two bolt flange at the resonator. If the flange is rotted, NAPA sells two piece replacements that slip over the pipe and bolt together. This saves cutting and welding. Pretty slick. Remove the four nuts holding the front part of the exhaust to the manifolds, unplug the pass side O2 sensor and drop it down.
 
Wow, thanks guys. This makes it a lot easier (and cheaper). I can't believe that site has solid motor mounts for 21 bucks apiece. I'm there.
 
Are these solid mounts as in not polyurethane (yeah I can't spell!) I'm just starting the upgrades to my car, but was told that solid steel (???) mounts make for a very harsh ride... any details?
 
Solid Rubber cost me $20/ side.

My buddy did the job at his garage yesterday. As soon as he got the car on the list he called me the curse me out, then started the job.

1/2 later he called me to tell me he had a fist fight with the car, but the motor mounts are out and he was going to put the others in.

50 minutes later he called me back and continued to use fowl language but said they were in and he test drove it and while beating it up, the transplant showed well. No difference in ride or anything. Of course now the motor isn't clumping around down there.

1 hour 20 minutes later he was done. Didn't disconnect a damn thing, not even the downtubes, and did both sides at one time. Didn't break a thing either.

It can be done if your aren't afraid of it.

Oh yeah, the car fought a good fight, cuz my buddy split his eye on the strong man he was using the hold the motor up. But in the end, the SC fell right into line after he smacked it around with a wrench.

Just figured I would share this success story.
Anthony
 
Hey, plev72, I tried looking for the Polyurethane (that's spelled correctly, by the way) mounts, but I don't think they make them for our cars (yet). So I guess solid rubber is the next big thing - I guess we'll find out pretty soon.
SilverCasket, your friend did both sides in under 90 minutes?? Without removing anything at all but the mounts themselves?? :eek: Jeezes, knowing me, It's going to take me the whole weekend to do these freaking mounts (and the next week after that to figure out what I left unpugged that's keeping the car from starting :D ). Anyway, don't be alarmed if you hear from me next week asking for advice on how to finish the job. Thanks fellas.
 
I don't know how he got the new mounts in without removing anything, but 90 minutes with a lift and air tools sounds reasonable.

Aaron
 
Hmmm, I can't see doing it without removing parts due to the need to lift the engine quite a bit to clear the new mounts (and the old ones if they are not broken in half).

That would require, at the least, the intake tubes to be disconnected. Without disconnecting I would be fearful of cracking something.

If your engine is high on power, the only solution to avoid broken motor mounts is a torque strap that limits the motion of the motor so that it can't overstress the motor mounts.
 
The whole intercooler is rubber mounted so it's not an issue. The tubes should be "reset" though, so loosen them , re position and make sure to use ultra copper or white teflon sealant, otherwise your car won't make as much of that precious boost!
 
If you have access to a lift, support jacks, and air tools, you can drop the subframe and go at it entirely from underneath. In fact, some of the the shop manuals actually state that. Most of us don't so its not commonly discussed.:cool:

If anyone wants the way I did it, let me know. Takes a lot longer but preserves sanity, knuckles, and stripped bolt heads. BTW, TBKHomeworld rounded a couple going about it the shortcutway and got so exasperated that I think he sold the SC.
:( :(
 
yes tbk did that with a bolt

but thats not why he sold it . it was personal reasons, and he did it and got it running again . he sold after it was fixed tbk is a very sc savy man with mechanical skills to boot. it sounded like you were saying he sold it because he couldnt fix it or it was to hard to work on thats not why he sold it .oh damn now im sticking up for tbk whats the sccoa comming to! oh yeah Im not bytching at you im just a arse sometimes lol
 
I don't know that for sure, but the last time I talked to him, he was rather upset about the mounts. From what he said, it sounded like that was the straw which broke the camel's back.

Now not that I would have done things the same way, but you must admit he himself, poured a lot of time+money into the projects. Some of the problems weren't his own, but others were just natural things anyone would run into with a big job such as a complete tranny makeover.

I wished he'd have kept the thing as he had become the tranny guru. I also wish he'd have let one of us help him through the motor mount job. See, I knew him when he lived in Texas and I would have gladly helped out if I knew he needed it.
 
your right he was the tranny guru

I didnt get to meet him but he told me lots, very smart fellow wish he would get another sc and like I said im sorry if I sounded pissed I just know he dint like it when someone said this on tbu your a lucky person to have been freinds . by the way I once lived in Irving texas. love your state.
 
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