Proper S/C oil level

Katoom

Registered User
Okay, help me out here:

I've read a lot of posts that say you are supposed to fill the S/C oil to the bottom thread of the filler tube. When I bought my immaculate XR-7 at 99,000km (61000miles) from a Ford dealer I found out I was the second owner of this car. This thing didn't have a scratch, and was and still is 100% bone stock, therefore, I believe it to never be tampered with.
I checked the S/C oil almost immediately. I cut a piece of wire about 8 inches long, removed the allen head filler screw and put the wire in the hole until it bottomed out. There was about 1.5 inches of oil on the wire when I removed it. This is nowhere near the bottom of the fill plug. My dealer said this was adequate. The nose seal would weep enough to warrant washing a dirt residue off the nose, once a year. I actually thought it was rubber residue from the belt more than anything. The car now has 288,000km (188000 miles) and the S/C oil is still golden yellow, I've never added any! The blower has always run super quiet, in fact, it's never had a wrench laid on it. It's only been off once to do head gaskets!
So where is it coming from that these need to be filled to the bottom thread. Mine has worked great from temps as low as -25°C to 35°C, in harsh Canadian winters. I was just on the website for Magnuson Products, and they have a ? mark after their recommended fill level of the bottom thread!
Perhaps this is why people are having heavy front seal leakage issues, maybe they are over-filled when you put that much in. If mine has gone this far, why wouldn't everybody elses!
 
SC Fluid

If you saw the inside of the supercharger snout (where the fluid goes) you would realize that by filling to the bottom of the threads does not actually fill up the complete inside. The bottom of the threads fills it enough to lube the bearings and toss some oil on the other parts inside. That's why the car has to be cold and on a level surface. Running low on fluid is not a good idea because If the bearings run dry you'll be faced with rebuilding the snout. If your seal leaks, it can be replaced very easily by removing the pulley and pull the seal out and tap the new one in.
This pic shows the bearings and other parts in the snout.

Snout%20PartsW.jpg
 
Cool pic. I will probably do the snout seal and oil top off this winter. Quick question though. The aluminum drive...how does that fasten to the back of the drive shaft?
 
Aluminum Drive

The Aluminum Drive is pressed on or heated and pushed on.
I like to heat the drive and then use the press.
 
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