Hey guys, i've been an SC owner for almost 10 years now and I am just absolutely in love with them!! Been through about 6 of them coming and going lol. Anyways, I currently have a white 93 SC very clean but the motor is bad. I've worked out an arrangement to pick up an engine from XR7Dave to do a motor swap. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, have done small things like ball joint replacements, tie rod ends, other small stuff of the like, and my latest project was a FWD tranny replacement on my 95 monte carlo which was a pain in the ***!!. I know that these cars are very specialized and it will be my first motor swap so if there is ANY advice that you tech savvy guys that have done this a lot could give would be very much appreciated, thanks!
Motor swap
- Thread starter Dbarnhill
- Start date
92sclikenew
Registered User
the only thing i can say that is a ~~~~ when doing a motor thats never been out of the car.. is the lower ic tube mount.. very hard to do well for me.... i threw the stud and nut away once i got it off.
other then that it should be pretty simple remove the sc, top, and tube all at once(disconnect at the ic) then you dont have to worry about a spanner wrench.once you pull the top end apart it will look way easier.
Tim Groth
SCCoA Member
I've replaced motors in several SC's and its not as daunting as one my think. The worst part of the job in my opinion is dealing with the bell housing bolts and the exhaust flange bolts. I've always have 1 on the 13mm bolts on the bell housing give me a problem.
Besides that its a cake walk. Last engine pull, I removed an entire drivetrain in 2 hours.
Engine wise, all you have to take disconnect to free it are the 2 motor mount bolts, the pressure line on the power steering, the inner cooler, main wiring harness and the fuel lines.
Any questions just ask.
-Tim
Besides that its a cake walk. Last engine pull, I removed an entire drivetrain in 2 hours.
Engine wise, all you have to take disconnect to free it are the 2 motor mount bolts, the pressure line on the power steering, the inner cooler, main wiring harness and the fuel lines.
Any questions just ask.
-Tim
90sc35thann
Registered User
You'll be fine. I have done them about 6 times now. If your vehicle is egr equipped they are always a pia. My best advice is to remove the wiper arms and take off the top cowl on both sides and the bottom cowl on the passenger side. It will make life much easier for you. It's always a good idea to replace the engine mounts while the engine is out. I also replace all of the rubber cooling lines to and from the oil cooler. Those factory aluminum pressed on clamps can be cut off and then I use flexible 3/4" marine wet exhaust hose. It's the hose with wire running through it so that it can be bent in a tight radius without kinking.
racecougar
Registered User
Agreed. Pulling a stock one out and sticking another in it's place is a piece of cake. Reaching some of the bolts and plugs can be a nuisance, but I wouldn't call the job daunting at all.
Thanks for the reassurance guys, I hope it will all turn out ok. As far as the motor goes though, i think it's just the block with heads water and oil pump that I will be purchasing from DD. I think the SC and accessories will have to be transferred from my current motor. Also, the SC on my current motor is believed to be no good so I will probably be getting one from him seperate, and transferring the plenums and such. Does anyone know a good spec site where I can get torque specifications, fluid capacities, etc.?
nmcbchief
Registered User
Not mine but I have one of these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Ford-T...anuals_Literature&hash=item41676a18a5&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Ford-T...anuals_Literature&hash=item41676a18a5&vxp=mtr
heres a few tips...
always replace the heater core hoses and rid those junk spring tension clamps
unbolt the a/c compressor and set it aside so you don't have to worry about discharging the a/c
don't forget to disconnect the p/s lines
don't forget to disconnect the p/s lines
don't forget to disconnect the p/s lines
remove the radiator, can be done without removing it but its so much easier if you just pull it out and you significantly reduce the chance of screwing it up
loosen the cowl panel, you don't have to remove it just loosen it so it will move freely
when you remove the fuel tank, be sure to disconnect the crossover hose in the back before unbolting the last strap
remove the act sensor and don't forget to disconnect the little manifold pressure gauge line next to it
if you have a 5spd don't forget to unbolt the shifter handle first
always replace the heater core hoses and rid those junk spring tension clamps
unbolt the a/c compressor and set it aside so you don't have to worry about discharging the a/c
don't forget to disconnect the p/s lines
don't forget to disconnect the p/s lines
don't forget to disconnect the p/s lines
remove the radiator, can be done without removing it but its so much easier if you just pull it out and you significantly reduce the chance of screwing it up
loosen the cowl panel, you don't have to remove it just loosen it so it will move freely
when you remove the fuel tank, be sure to disconnect the crossover hose in the back before unbolting the last strap
remove the act sensor and don't forget to disconnect the little manifold pressure gauge line next to it
if you have a 5spd don't forget to unbolt the shifter handle first
remove the fuel tank?
Gotcha, i think the trans is good though, or so i'm told. I haven't seen this car run since I came into ownership of it (which was just recently). I will however mostly likely be attempting a m5r2 conversion sometime around March if the motor swap goes good. Thank you everyone for all the tips!
David Neibert
SCCoA Admin
Not necessary if you leave PS pump, alt and coil pack attached to the accesory bracket. Just unbolt the bracket and tie the whole thing out of your way.
David
Tim Groth
SCCoA Member
Hey guys. Im also soon planning a motor pull... Any advice as to WHERE attach the chains? Been worrying about that for a while now...
You can screw into the rear of the head on the drivers side and then the front of the passenger head... thats usually how I go about it atleast.
Several ways to skin a cat...
-Tim
90sc35thann
Registered User
When you bolt the chain to the cylinder heads use the same bolt hole location from one head to the other. The engine will be much more balanced that way and won't want to rotate as much. In other words if you use the lower bolt hole on one head use the lower bolt hole on the other. This is especially important when going back in.