~~~ is goin with my SC??

Justin89SC

Registered User
OK. My 94 SC just started doin this eariler in the week. only does it very so often.

It seems like it under powered. When i get into boost, around 5 PSI, the boost gauge would jump back and foruth between 5 to 8 PSI. Then i step on it, and it goes to 10PSI+. Then the car kicks in and seems to drive normal. i have also noticed my MPG has dropped from 20 to 14.

I do have a check engine light, ill get the codes later after it stops raining.
 
codes

First code is a 539 meaning your A/C switch was truned on during test, it needs to be turned off. No biggie on this one.

The other code is a 562, which I can't seem to find an easy meaning for. I saw one where it was suggested it could be a TCC Solenoid in Tranny. Not sure on that one though.

Smitty
 
Just want to make sure i got this right. I did a test again, this time while the engine is running.

I got 6 codes, i think

116 Engine coolant temperatures higher or lower
than expected

172 HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/lean

332 Insufficient EGR flow detected

538 Insufficient RPM change during KOER
Dynamic Response Test

356 Fuel pump relay primary circuit fault

632 Overdrive Transmission Cancel Switch/ no
action during self-engine run test

I also check for the fourth time for vacuum/boost leaks with a can of carb cleaner. didnt find any. but the car pulls 20in of vacuum at idle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmHojnbKBJc&feature=youtu.be

also, 562, both of my fans work properly
 
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ok, i also checked the exhaust for any leaks. I found one on the right side on the cat. Is the cat surpose to have a small whole in the cat itself? Its after the O2 sensor and behind the heat sheild. I can hear it, but cant feel it.
 
ok, i also checked the exhaust for any leaks. I found one on the right side on the cat. Is the cat surpose to have a small whole in the cat itself? Its after the O2 sensor and behind the heat sheild. I can hear it, but cant feel it.

A catalytic converter should not have any holes. Mufflers will often have a condensation drip hole but a converter never has this.
 
i really havnt had time to even really look at the car. I did drive it today and got a video of whats its doing.

It seems like its backfiring when it wants to act up.

This one, you can here the blower creating boost, but the car doesnt pick up speed, and you may here the car backfiring. You can also see the boost gauge spike. My foot never moved to create the spike.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJyH2XYVmIw&feature=youtu.be

This one is just me trying to pick up speed. still not wanting to go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sc-dFJFyYPo
 
Did the grounds get cleaned? Over on the frame on the P-side and then where it grounds to the P-side motor mount pull that cable and clean it. Where it grounds on the D-side motor mount from the battery can be a bear to get to, but at least check it.

Vac leak would be my next check. Get some starter fluid or electrical cleaner and let it idle and spray connections. If the idle changes you found at least one leak, but keep checking.

This is assuming the DIS has been changed, Cam sensor checked and crank sensor is in good condition.
 
What is the dis? I may have another one from parting out my old 5spd car.

It is a grey box about 8 inches across and 1/2 thick. I belive on the 94/95 it is on the fender. Plug in on each end of it. Should say Motorcraft DIS on the top of it if it is original equipment.

If you cant find it chase the wire from the coil pack to it........
 
Directions from rickbtbird:

The procedure I have doesn't mention anything about adding heat sync compound.
Install ignition control module onto ignition control module bracket and install retaining screws. Tighten screws to 2.7-3.7 Nm (24-33 in lb) .
Install ignition control module and ignition control module bracket onto front fender apron (if removed). Tighten retaining bolt to 4-5.6 Nm (35-50 in lb) .
Connect engine control sensor wiring connector to the ignition control module.
Connect battery ground cable.

On the other hand the procedures for the 90 say this:
Apply a 1/32 inch coat of silicone dielectric compound or equivalent to the mounting surface of the DIS module.
Mount the DIS module to the intake manifold. Torque bolts to specification, refer to SPECIFICATIONS .
Connect electrical connectors to ignition module.

Be careful with the wording. Silicone Dielectric Compound is not to be confulled with Silicone Dielectric Grease. The grease will fry a DIS.
 
i really havnt had time to even really look at the car. I did drive it today and got a video of whats its doing.

It seems like its backfiring when it wants to act up.

This one, you can here the blower creating boost, but the car doesnt pick up speed, and you may here the car backfiring. You can also see the boost gauge spike. My foot never moved to create the spike.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJyH2XYVmIw&feature=youtu.be

This one is just me trying to pick up speed. still not wanting to go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sc-dFJFyYPo

In your first video, what is the sound at about 0:04? Is that something you did, or is that from the engine?

The boost spike at 0:06 is definitely from an ignition misfire.

What modifications does this car have? I am guessing the blower is overdriven, from the boost that it makes. Is the car tuned?

I found a thread by you about 8 months ago, discussing a misfire and spark plug wires. Did you ever replace them?

I didn't like the sounds in the second video. I would be careful about this. You don't want to blow the engine.
 
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