front hub assy.

sccrewzer

Registered User
Just wondering if its normal for the front hub assembly to have a slight play up and down when the nut is removed? My car has a popping sound coming from the front suspension
I thought it could be the hub but I checked another car and it has the same play in it.
 
This is where it will be great when our site is updated. Vidoes would help this a ton. Maybe post a video of it on youtube and bring the link here.?.?

Slight is a very general term. That makes it hard to answer this question. There will be play from the bearings being allowed to move, but without pictures/video it is hard to tell you how much is too much without weight input and measurements done.

Popping is another general term that doesn't really help with figuring out the issue either. ;)

A lot of the front end noise caused by popping when turning is from the sway torsion bar bushings being worn. That is the bar that runs from the Lower control arm up to the frame just under the radiator area. Replace the bushings and use large washers and see if that helps with the noise.

Best guess with the info provided. :eek:
 
I'll add that for THOSE bushings, it works best if you use the original Ford bushings to replace.

There's quite a bit of talk about the part numbers, why to use the Ford parts only, and how to replace the no longer available ferrules in the Suspension sub-forum at http://forums.tccoa.com .

RwP
 
I'll add that for THOSE bushings, it works best if you use the original Ford bushings to replace.

There's quite a bit of talk about the part numbers, why to use the Ford parts only, and how to replace the no longer available ferrules in the Suspension sub-forum at http://forums.tccoa.com .

RwP

I just last weekend finished my suspension rebuild and I used the strut rod bushing kit from Moog for both ends of the strut rod. Thus far I have been very pleased with the results. The Moog kit uses urethane bushings for both ends of the strut rod. That strut rod is now very tight to the a-arm and to the fron sub frame. K8680 and K8659 are the kits I used.
 
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I just last weekend finished my suspension rebuild and I used the strut rod bushing kit from Moog for both ends of the strut rod. Thus far I have been very pleased with the results. The Moog kit uses urethane bushings for both ends of the strut rod. That strut rod is now very tight to the a-arm and to the fron sub frame.

*shrug*

Talk to us in a year or so.

The problem with the Moog is that it's TOO hard, and self-destructs.

Or so it seems.

Again, check the long thread(s) over on TCCoA.

RwP
 
Just wondering if its normal for the front hub assembly to have a slight play up and down when the nut is removed? My car has a popping sound coming from the front suspension
I thought it could be the hub but I checked another car and it has the same play in it.
I think its normal. I swapped out a hub for the same reason, and the other one did the same thing. When tightened, there was no play nor noise from either hub. In other words, both hubs were good. Be sure your subframe bolts (8 Torx E18) are at 80-100lbs tight. I had to order a torx E18 socket just for that purpose. I had been using a regular 12pt, but it was starting to slip :eek: at the higher torque.
 
The problem with the Moog is that it's TOO hard, and self-destructs.
I have the blue Moogers at the arm. They SEEM like they are just a bit piable but its kinda hard to tell. They are tight and seem to be wearing well. No voids, gaps, or looseness. At least I can't get any movement when I pry on them. I also have Moogers on the front, but those are the rubber type.. again no gaps or evident wear, and I can't pry them a millimeter.
Having said all that, I have a popping issue. Everything is tight. I can't find anything, including shock mounts, that could be causing the problem. I just retightened the subframe bolts yesterday with my for real E18 socket so we'll see.
 
I think its normal. I swapped out a hub for the same reason, and the other one did the same thing. When tightened, there was no play nor noise from either hub. In other words, both hubs were good. Be sure your subframe bolts (8 Torx E18) are at 80-100lbs tight. I had to order a torx E18 socket just for that purpose. I had been using a regular 12pt, but it was starting to slip :eek: at the higher torque.

The proper torque for the 8 E-18 Torx K-Member bolts is 57-77 Lb-Ft.
 

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