Arc woes

LIVipers

LIVipers

Registered User
Hello All,

I've been going insane trying to figure out why i have no ARC on my 1994 SC. It just stopped working one day. I checked the switch, switch works fine. ARC does not come on in Auto mode or in user select mode. I've tried to swap out the ARC module, but that yielded no luck unfortunately. I have noticed that on the highway i also do not have variable assist power steering, as the wheel is extremely easy to turn even at higher speeds (55-65mph average driving speed). I only mention this because i know the ARC is connected into the steering system.

One day after the ARC stopped working i was at a stoplight and the light came on for about 4 seconds i noticed, and then turned off, and hasnt come on since. I'm lost as to what it could possibly be....Does anyone have any ideas?
 
All fuses were checked and replaced, even if they were okay. I changed fuse I inside the power distribution box, as well as the multiple fuses underneath the dash associated with the ARC and the EVO steering.
 
Check for voltage at the firm ride control switch. It is the pink/orange wire. If you do not have voltage at the switch, then you have a problem at the secondary junction block or an open circuit from the fuse (22) to the switch.

If you do have power, you need to check for voltage at your ride control relays near the ride control computer. They are the black/orange wires. If you have no voltage, you have an open circuit from your power distribution box (4FL) to your relays. If you have power and assuming your ride control computer is good since you switched it out, then your problem is probably a bad ground.

Let me know the results of these voltage checks and we'll go from there.

Mark
 
I did the voltage check, and it looks like i've got 1.3 to the switch and .3 to the relays. For some reason though both numbers were jumpy. For example, I'd test the switch, get 1.3, remove ground, reattach, get .7, then .5, then .4, and then 1.3 again each time i disconnected the ground and then reattached.
 
LIVipers said:
I did the voltage check, and it looks like i've got 1.3 to the switch and .3 to the relays. For some reason though both numbers were jumpy. For example, I'd test the switch, get 1.3, remove ground, reattach, get .7, then .5, then .4, and then 1.3 again each time i disconnected the ground and then reattached.
Click to expand...

I'm going to bet you're reading RF noise induced into the meter, and not an actual voltage.

But yah, that ain't right.

I'd start checking the voltage at the connector to the ARC computer in the back, under the package tray.

RwP
 
Ralph,

I did that as per the ford manual...and come up with nothing as far as resistance and voltage goes. I know my meter works, its just not reading anything from back there. Where do i go from there?
 
I was reading the prints for your car. The power to your ARC goes through your switch and the relays. If you don't have power there, you will not have it at the computer. There are other power sources going to your computer but you have to have power at the switch and relays for the system to work.

Mark
 
So where should i look for the culprit? If there is no power going to the box then there has to be something along the way diverting or shorting the power.
 
If you have no power there, check the hot side of your fuses to see if power is at least to your fuses. I would use a test light if you have one handy. let me know. There are several connectors between the fuse and switch/relay but am skeptic of your checks there since you had no power at at either component. Ensure you have no voltage or you can do alot of extra work.

Mark
 
Ralph, Original switch that i know of, about 52,000 miles.

Mark, I tested the fuse sides in the power distribution box with a test light, nothing came on
 
Shot in the dark, but how about swapping the ignition switch at the bottom of the steering column?

Original is well past time they start separating causing really flaky no-power symptoms.

RwP
 
Did you test your light on the battery. Also, did you test with ignition on. I don't have my prints with me at work but I do not remember the ignition switch being part of the circuit. I will double check when I get home this afternoon

Mark
 
Okay i re-did the test light, and there is power going to the AUTOSHOCK fuse in the Power Distribution Box. Would i be able to use the testlight to verify the relays and the switch as well? If so what should i use as a power source?

I appreciate all the input
 
The power is already on the color leads from my first post you just need to make sure your test light has a good ground when testing

Mark
 
Also, your power distribution box fuse supplies power to your relays. The primary fuse box (under dash) provides power to your switch. You need power on that fuse before you will have it at the switch
 
Okay i'll give that a try and get back to you. Any chance the relays could be causing this? That both of them went bad?
 
Possible, but you would still have power to your ride selection switch. Need to get power there first other wise were just guessing

Mark
 
Okay, another weird turn. On the highway today i realized all of a sudden the steering was...harder...almost as though i got variable assist back. Well, sure enough, i go to flick the firm ride switch and the panel lights up. I flick it on and off a few times, each time it comes on. I exit the highway, and put it in auto mode. I push my foot down to see if it comes on...nothing. I flick the switch...nothing. I dont know what possessed it to come on all of a sudden.
 
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