Coolant light with pletny of coolant?

EatonEmployee

Registered User
I got this after I got it back from the Ford dealer & they changed my thermostat. They act like 101k is the reason but I bought this car at 96k flawless. I have bad PTSD from combat & if I go argue with them I will hurt them. It's best I solve this issue myself. I can't stand any issues with my vehicles at all. Also the temp likes to climb but it's clear the car can easily cool itself when it wants to. It likes to ride the high speed fan temp of 221 & set the needle in the M. This drives me nuts! It's always been steadfast in the N. It's like there is a control module for cooling & it is being faulty. Not sure if this even exists for our cars outside of EEC. Recently found blown radio fuse so they may have been testing things they shouldn't. F-r's put 60 miles on my car. Is there anything you can do to people who clearly joyride your car?? Again, I can't go down there upset or put myself in altercations. I'm in PTSD counseling after a life in the military & I will just start droppin dudes cuz one's never enough. Playing with my car goes way beyond emotion. You might as well finger my girl & smile at me.
 
These cars use a sensor pod and flow a minute amount of current through the coolant to detect it. How dirty is your overflow tank? If it's discolored any at all, you may want to drain the system down enough to pull the overflow tank, clean it out good, and while it's being cleaned, clean the low-coolant stalk off good.

I'd also consider a thermograph (??) of the radiator with it hot - an infrared picture of the radiator showing where it's hot and where it's not. It's not beyond possibility that the car's radiator is starting to plug with age.

Just a few thoughts there.

RwP
 
Also the temp likes to climb but it's clear the car can easily cool itself when it wants to. It likes to ride the high speed fan temp of 221 & set the needle in the M. This drives me nuts! It's always been steadfast in the N. It's like there is a control module for cooling & it is being faulty. Not sure if this even exists for our cars outside of EEC.
Charging up to the M and cooling down is normal. In fact, when my SC was new, it would do that when idling and when you got on it for a while. So no big deal. If its always running that way, then you need to look at the thermostat and the radiator. The EEC, like many old things, gets alzheimers! It will run hotter due to some degrading of the circuitry. I would suggest a new(er) EEC to test that out. Speaking for myself, I've never found a bad ECT sensor. I've replaced 1 or 2, but when testing the temp vs. resistance, the old ones are in spec. :confused:

Is there anything you can do to people who clearly joyride your car??
Sell it to them. :D

Anyways, I don't have a practical answer for the whole issue, but its why I DIY everything on my SCs. Other than tires, alignments, windshields, and paint. Any other vehicle can take its chances at the shop. :rolleyes:
 
The fan has two speeds, powered by two separate windings in the motor. It is possible that one is not working. If you start the EEC self-test with a code reader or a paperclip in the appropriate connector locations, you should hear both fan speeds run for a second or two each.

If the low-speed fan is not working, it could be the control circuit (which involves the EEC and a relay inside the IRCM box), or the motor itself. To verify that, you could apply power and ground directly to the fan connector.

For the low coolant light, as Ralph said, try cleaning it first. If that doesn't work, you might have to replace the sensor.
 
Coolant lt re

The tank was nasty. I pulled the sensor & cleaned it half hazardly where I was at. I can hear the high speed fan kick on. The radiator is from a dealer & \ has 20k on it. I have a 100k, 93 auto SC. Hard to find any "newer" than mine. No SC looks like mine. When I bought it before the dealer raped it, it looked like a brand new car. I'll try the overflow tank issue & get some real time readings at different locations. Thanks.
 
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