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Flex
08-31-2012, 11:57 PM
I have that damn clunk in the floor boards when turning slowly. All bushings are new and poly. Nothing is obviously damaged. Could it be due to the drop springs? I noticed that there is an offset rack bushing avalable for dropped cars. Could it be the rack binding up or should I be looking for something else.

RalphP
09-01-2012, 12:13 AM
Something else, quite possibly the poly strut rod bushings having failed.

There's some interesting reading on the strut rod bushings (hint: Only the Ford rubber lasts, and they don't sell the inner ferrules anymore!) over on TCCoA's forums.

Also, have you checked the K-member to unibody bolts? Eight of them, with an E18 head. My 1991 service manual specifies 70-95 Ft/Lbs torque. Some folks on TCCoA have found them as much as a turn out from that (!!!)

Past that, it's time to triple-check what's clunking where and when.

Could be bad rack bushings (BTW - if you did poly, did you install the metal inner sleeves out of the old bushings? If not, that's the problem - the polys are TOO big ID and may let the rack slop around.)

Could be almost anything, AAMOF. Don't forget motor mounts and transmission mount and crossmember mounts ...

RwP

Flex
09-01-2012, 12:37 AM
I have taken them off and they are not damaged. I did use the metal sleeves with the new poly rack bushings. I have not checked the cradle bolts yet. I will tomorrow. Motor and trnsmission mounts are new.

90sc35thann
09-01-2012, 05:54 AM
I recently had similar issues. I as well was chasing a clunk in the suspension. My entire suspension is new (like 200 miles). New struts, springs, a-arms, tie, rods, bushings, sway bar links, etc. It turned out to be the rack. The shaft on the passenger side was moving up and down inside the rack and making a loud clunk. It was only apparent after I removed the bellows boot and performed the tie rod test (wiggle the tie back and forth). The strange part was that even with all of the shaft play, the rack didn't leak a drop of fluid.

Flex
09-01-2012, 11:55 AM
Did you change the rack? If so, was the problem solved.

90sc35thann
09-01-2012, 12:41 PM
Did you change the rack? If so, was the problem solved.

Started my rack install at 8am and just finished my test ride. Yes the problem is solved and the rack isn't leaking. I am going to keep an eye on the tire wear. I took the inner tie rods off of the new rack and bolted mine back in without loosening the jam nut(left the tie rods hooked up to the spindle because they were brand new and I just had a wheel alignment). I am hoping I won't need an alignment with doing it that way. It also resolved another issue. When driving down the road my steering wheel used to wiggle ever so slightly back and forth and that is now also gone.

Flex
09-01-2012, 12:47 PM
Damn, I have that same wiggle.

90sc35thann
09-01-2012, 12:55 PM
Damn, I have that same wiggle.

The rack install isn't a big deal. I will say installing it without the inner tie rods attached made it easier to snake back up through the engine cradle. Let me know how it works out for you.

Flex
09-01-2012, 01:08 PM
Well I hate that damn sound so I guess I don't have much choice. I was hoping not to spend $200 on one. I guess I should do the offset bushings at the same time. Thanks for the input. I'll check the cradle bolts too, just invade they are loosse

rlittlep
09-01-2012, 06:47 PM
Rack bushings!

90sc35thann
09-01-2012, 06:50 PM
Rack bushings!

It could certainly be those. Mine were tight as heck. The shaft inside my rack was so sloppy. I am still in disbelief that it wasn't leaking. Not a drop of fluid and was terrible loose.

Flex
09-01-2012, 06:50 PM
Bob,

They are brand new poly energy suspension. I used the metal sleeves from the old ones.

Flex
09-03-2012, 01:55 PM
Ok, the cradle bolts are loose. I can see air under two of them and two others have large shiny circles around them where the friction is polishing the surface. I will torque them and see if that is my problem.

Flex
09-03-2012, 03:11 PM
The worst offender was out about a full turn the rest about 3/4. No more clunk. That was definitely the problem. Good call on checking that Ralphy. Thanks guys.

90sc35thann
09-03-2012, 03:39 PM
Good to know. I drove mine50 miles and my clunk is still gone. I checked my engine cradle and all were tight. Last rattle left in my car is the passenger seat. It's utterly annoying. If I drive with it forward it is so quiet inside my car. I hope to address it when I pull seats to be reupholstered next week. Has anyone else had this issue and what was the fix?

Flex
09-03-2012, 03:44 PM
A buddy had a fox body mustang that had a rattle in the seat. It was a fracture in the floor causung the seat to shake. Check to see if the track is worn out at the rear. You may also wish to check the seat hardware.

90sc35thann
09-03-2012, 03:53 PM
A buddy had a fox body mustang that had a rattle in the seat. It was a fracture in the floor causung the seat to shake. Check to see if the track is worn out at the rear. You may also wish to check the seat hardware.

Seat is bolt up tight and the floors are good. I wonder if there is a rubber insulator missing at the bottom of the seat back.

S_Mazza
09-04-2012, 10:50 AM
Good to know. I drove mine50 miles and my clunk is still gone. I checked my engine cradle and all were tight. Last rattle left in my car is the passenger seat. It's utterly annoying. If I drive with it forward it is so quiet inside my car. I hope to address it when I pull seats to be reupholstered next week. Has anyone else had this issue and what was the fix?

Is it the headrest bouncing around? Try holding the headrest over a bump and see if it stops. If so, the plastic clips that support the headrest have broken. They are still available from Ford.

I believe they were a safety item, to help reduce head trauma in bad rear-end collisions. But I am not 100% sure on that.