Replace DIS.....

MtDewd

Registered User
Installed new engine.....old one had a bad rod.....everything else ran good on the old motor except idle dropped ocasionally. When I started up the new motor, I now have new codes:

212 = Loss of TACH input to ECA; SPOUT circuit grounded

214 = Distrubutorless Ignition System Cylinder Identification circuit failure

Does this mean I need to replace the DIS module? If I install a new one (I can get for $165) will it blow as well or did it just happen to go out when I installed the new engine?

Helpfull info:
Evreything on new motor is to stock specs except heads port matched, forged pistons (.030 over), cam regrind 224@.50 520 lift.

Please help
 
Yeah,most probably the Cam sensor,when it fails the EEC doesn't know which cylinder to fire...cheap,quick ,easy, replacement...just don't drop the two little screws.Good luck,
z
 
Well you think they could just say "cam sensor" and not "cylinder identification circuit". I'll replace it and see if that helps. The motor does start with starting fluid, however it won't idle and has a miss, runs rough. Thanks for the help! Does anyone know anything about the SPOUT circuit?
 
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A failed Cam Sensor will cause the engine to have difficulty figuring out when the number 1 cylinder is at top dead center. That should cause intermittant starts as the engine computer tries to GUESS at the #1 cylinder.

The SPOUT note may be related to the SPOUT plug missing. I'm not sure where it is located on our cars, but it must be removed to set base timing as it disables the ECM from controlling timing. Once base is set you need to re-insert the SPOUT plug to let the ECM take control again. IF that's missing, it might account for your idle quality issues.
 
firing order

Make sure you have the firing order right. We forgot to mark ours when we took the old engine out, and all the manuals are wrong! The correct order is on the coil, but VERY hard to read. Even with 4 cylinders out of order, mine still ran, but had a miss under throttle.
 
Still not working!

Well I put a new cam sensor in today and there was no change. Someone told me that the little half moon vane in the sensor could be 180 degrees out, or that the motor was at TDC on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke when it was put in. I'm sure the motor was at TDC on compression because both valves were closed. Anyway, it wouldn't have started at all I'm sure if that was the case.

I went by the book on putting it in and if the book is wrong on firing order (forgot to mark mine as well) then that might be the case. I wonder, the book (Haynes manual) said the coils fires two cylinders at the same time and that the cylinder on the compression stroke gets most of the voltage. Maybe that's how it could run with so many out of order.

Also, it refers to unpluging the SPOUT connector on non-supercharged models. It says the SC's timing is non adjustable. Is anyone adjusting theirs and how are they doing it?

The Spout signal and the cam sensor both run into the DIS module, so I'm wondering if that still needs to be replaced. Just don't want to spend the $165.

Thanks for all the advice! Need to get this problem fixed so I can go import hunting!
 
The Hayne's is what I used, and it is WRONG!. Take the coil pack off, on the clear, yellowie gel, the firing order is marked next to each wire. Go by those numbers, I know for a fact the Haynes is wrong. It took us about 2 wks to figure it out. Hope that helps
 
F'n Haynes

I just noticed in other posts another guy having firing order issues with the Haynes. Funny, my buddies shop manuals have the same firing order as listed in the haynes. What were they smokin when they wrote them? They probably just used the haynes. hehe

Thanks I'll check the firing order.
 
plug gap??

Well I got the coil wires right now (5+6 were wrong in the Haynes) and it ran better. Still hard starting and sounds like it's running on 5 cylinders. Could the gap be wrong? I might have over gapped the plugs a little to .055-.057. Also I noticed a little spark happening on the #2 cylinder between the plug and the block at low RPM's when it wants to die.

I'm trying to get back to the basics here. Maybe that will help, like replace fuel filter and get the old gas out (it sat for over a year before I put in the new motor).

Once I changed the coil wires to the correct order, all the codes went away and the Tach started working! So we're on the road to success!

Thanks for all the help, let's get this rolling, we're almost there!
 
Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner, but I don't get on the computer much these days.
I just went thru an agonizing experience with "code 214" myself. Finaly I got hold of George Davenport who is very knowledgeable with these SC's. He was right on the money with his diagnosis of "cracked plug insulators". I'd recently changed plugs and you know how hard this simple job is. In retrospect I believe I caused my own demise by losing the rubber grommet from inside the plug socket and, hence working at a tight angle, I must have stressed the plug with the inside metal face of the socket. The first plug I pulled had two hairline cracks down the face of the ceramic insulator. The problem immediately went away until the car really warmed-up on a long run & then returned intermittently, together with a brief period of rough idle. I then removed all the other plugs and found one other with just a short crack. Since then all is well.
Hope this helps you in time.
Jim.
 
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